Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

OK, my experience with NSW RTA and Rally import

1) Your import approval needs to be a Rally Import. There is another category Race import which can never be registered. They are not the same

2) Import Approval requirements as per normal, plus you need to provide proof that the car is eligible for race OR rally. For a GTR it is on the FIA Homologation list www.fia.com/sport/Homologations/homol_vehicles.html. (although the homologation expired last year it is still eligible)

3) Also for import approval you need a National Rally or International Rally License. If you have a C3 or C4 circuit license you can get an additional National Rally license for about $100 after completing an online (easy) Rally course thru CAMS.

4) Once it arrives you need to apply for a log book which will include a scruitineering check and a detailed spec check of the car

5) NSW - Once the log book and scruitineering are complete you can apply for rego. You need CTP, blue slip, log book, import approval and a L2S or higher license.

6) You can use the car to race, transport to practice or transport to workshop. Before driving each time you ring CAMS and get a permit number. You need to carry all relevent papers in the car.

This sounds tough but is all quite possible if you get Rally (not Race) import approval in the first place. And as Andrew pointed out since there is no compliance you do not need to return it to stock and there are no restrictions on build date or car as long as it is eligible to race.

OK, my experience with NSW RTA and Rally import

1) Your import approval needs to be a Rally Import.  There is another category Race import which can never be registered.  They are not the same

2) Import Approval requirements as per normal, plus you need to provide proof that the car is eligible for race OR rally.  For a GTR it is on the FIA Homologation list www.fia.com/sport/Homologations/homol_vehicles.html.  (although the homologation expired last year it is still eligible)

3) Also for import approval you need a National Rally or International Rally License.  If you have  a C3 or C4 circuit license you can get an additional National Rally license for about $100 after completing an online (easy) Rally course thru CAMS.

4) Once it arrives you need to apply for a log book which will include a scruitineering check and a detailed spec check of the car

5) NSW - Once the log book and scruitineering are complete you can apply for rego.  You need CTP, blue slip, log book, import approval and a L2S or higher license.  

6) You can use the car to race, transport to practice or transport to workshop.  Before driving each time you ring CAMS and get a permit number.  You need to carry all relevent papers in the car.

This sounds tough but is all quite possible if you get Rally (not Race) import approval in the first place.  And as Andrew pointed out since there is no compliance you do not need to return it to stock and there are no restrictions on build date or car as long as it is eligible to race.

THANKS!!!! :P... with my car off the road i, have seen a neat R32 stocka 15 yr import needign rego for $4,500 (Can anyone say improved production? ;) )

OK, my experience with NSW RTA and Rally import

1) Your import approval needs to be a Rally Import.  There is another category Race import which can never be registered.  They are not the same

2) Import Approval requirements as per normal, plus you need to provide proof that the car is eligible for race OR rally.  For a GTR it is on the FIA Homologation list www.fia.com/sport/Homologations/homol_vehicles.html.  (although the homologation expired last year it is still eligible)

3) Also for import approval you need a National Rally or International Rally License.  If you have  a C3 or C4 circuit license you can get an additional National Rally license for about $100 after completing an online (easy) Rally course thru CAMS.

4) Once it arrives you need to apply for a log book which will include a scruitineering check and a detailed spec check of the car

5) NSW - Once the log book and scruitineering are complete you can apply for rego.  You need CTP, blue slip, log book, import approval and a L2S or higher license.  

6) You can use the car to race, transport to practice or transport to workshop.  Before driving each time you ring CAMS and get a permit number.  You need to carry all relevent papers in the car.

This sounds tough but is all quite possible if you get Rally (not Race) import approval in the first place.  And as Andrew pointed out since there is no compliance you do not need to return it to stock and there are no restrictions on build date or car as long as it is eligible to race.

hmmmmm i think people are getting the wrong idea as to what im talking about. A rally permit doesnt require a Rally imported car. It has nothing to do with how the car comes into the country. A Rally Permit is only a UVP thats a year long and is used for getting cars to and from events.

If you brought a car thats already been registered in Victoria thats worked off its tits and you wanted to use it as a track car, rather tha having to get it all engineered or try and get it thru RWC you could get a Rally Permit from VIC Roads for it to enable you to be able to drive it to and from a track.

My cars already been imported as a 15year old car.

All that is required for a Permit (or REGO) of this type is:

-CAMS licence

-Log book (CAMS)

-Completed application form

-Scrutineers cert or RWC (as i would need to comply my car an RWC is out)

The cost is $100 more than normal rego.

Yeh i get ya:thumbsup:...its just that soem of us have looked into this, and it has usually has resulted from ppl lookign to both import and get registered a car. So yours is already here, you just need to get it registered:)

Once my car is back on the road and i have finished spending money on it i was looking at gettign as Escort Rally/club car, so the rego thing is the same as i would be gettting club historis rally rego....but thats all looking a bit sick now, the UK beckons:)

Ni - you are still missing the point. Read the following from the Vic Road web site:

An applicant for a Rally permit must be a member of a car club affiliated with a VicRoads approved National Motorsport organisation (ie. Confederation of Australian Motorsport) and be the holder of either:

National Rally Licence (or a higher level competition licence);

or an international Rally Licence

However:

The operator of the vehicle must be the holder of a:

current National Rally Licence (or higher level competition licence) or;

a current International Rally Licence

an alternative competition licence approved by VicRoads

So I'll say it again. Having a normal track day CAMS licence will be sufficient for you to DRIVE the car - and you will need one to drive it at any time - but you can't register it with just one of those. You will need a Rally Licence to register it.

Ni - you are still missing the point. Read the following from the Vic Road web site:

An applicant for a Rally permit must be a member of a car club affiliated with a VicRoads approved National Motorsport organisation (ie. Confederation of Australian Motorsport) and be the holder of either:

National Rally Licence (or a higher level competition licence);  

or an international Rally Licence

However:

The operator of the vehicle must be the holder of a:

current National Rally Licence (or higher level competition licence) or;

a current International Rally Licence

an alternative competition licence approved by VicRoads

So I'll say it again. Having a normal track day CAMS licence will be sufficient for you to DRIVE the car - and you will need one to drive it at any time - but you can't register it with just one of those. You will need a Rally Licence to register it.

no UR missing my point...

if vic roads approve of the licence it is OK.. it doesnt have to BE an international or national according to the person i spoke to.

so this is what i am going on and what ive been saying for the past 20 posts

thats the first thing i confirmed as thats the whole reason i rang vicroads to confirm.

and what u have pointed out was the first thing that popped into my head but they left an opening in their wording to say it doesnt HAVE to be a HIGH classed licence.

i WILL be confirming this with their head office however... once again i am going down to see them and confirm everything as facts... until then there is still hope.

hmmmm thats not what vic roads said... i told them about my car etc and they said thats fine as long as it passes scrutineering then thats fine... they were more worried about the licence which apparently any of the CAMS licences cover.

i guess i should have aye? :mad:

rather than having to get it all engineered or try and get it thru RWC you could get a Rally Permit from VIC Roads for it to enable you to be able to drive it to and from a track.

Or you could buy a set of trader plates :mad:

This doesnt help much though but a few wrx members have bought old commo's for track work and have registered them under classic historic . Around $100 a year and allowed to drive to and from events and repairs/maintenence , they to have to be a member of a cams approved club and require ANY cams licence . Car has to be road worthy but doesnt require a RWC .

adam

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • The rain is the best time to push to the edge of the grip limit. Water lubrication reduces the consumption of rubber without reducing the fun. I take pleasure in driving around the outside of numpties in Audis, WRXs, BRZs, etc, because they get all worried in the wet. They warm up faster than the engine oil does.
    • When they're dead cold, and in the wet, they're not very fun. RE003 are alright, they do harden very quickly and turn into literally $50 Pace tyres.
    • Yeah, I thought that Reedy's video was quite good because he compared old and new (as in, well used and quite new) AD09s, with what is generally considered to be the fast Yokohama in this category (ie, sporty road/track tyres) and a tyre that people might be able to use to extend the comparo out into the space of more expensive European tyres, being the Cup 2. No-one would ever agree that the Cup 2 is a poor tyre - many would suggest that it is close to the very top of the category. And, for them all to come out so close to each other, and for the cheaper tyre in the test to do so well against the others, in some cases being even faster, shows that (good, non-linglong) tyres are reaching a plateau in terms of how good they can get, and they're all sitting on that same plateau. Anyway, on the AD08R, AD09, RS4 that I've had on the car in recent years, I've never had a problem in the cold and wet. SA gets down to 0-10°C in winter. Not so often, but it was only 4°C when I got in the car this morning. Once the tyres are warm (ie, after about 2km), you can start to lay into them. I've never aquaplaned or suffered serious off-corner understeer or anything like that in the wet, that I would not have expected to happen with a more normal tyre. I had some RE003s, and they were shit in the dry, shit in the wet, shit everywhere. I would rate the RS4 and AD0x as being more trustworthy in the wet, once the rubber is warm. Bridgestone should be ashamed of the RE003.
    • This is why I gave the disclaimer about how I drive in the wet which I feel is pretty important. I have heard people think RS4's are horrible in the rain, but I have this feeling they must be driving (or attempting to drive) anywhere close to the grip limit. I legitimately drive at the speed limit/below speed the limit 100% of the time in the rain. More than happy to just commute along at 50kmh behind a train of cars in 5th gear etc. I do agree with you with regards to the temp and the 'quality' of the tyre Dose. Most UHP tyres aren't even up to temperature on the road anyway, even when going mad initial D canyon carving. It would be interesting to see a not-up-to-temp UHP tyre compared against a mere... normal...HP tyre at these temperatures. I don't think you're (or me in this case) is actually picking up grip with an RS4/AD09 on the road relative to something like a RE003 because the RS4/AD09 is not up to temp and the RE003 is closer to it's optimal operating window.
    • Either the bearing has been installed backwards OR the gearbox input shaft bearing is loosey goosey.   When in doubt, just put in a Samsonas in.
×
×
  • Create New...