Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all,

After a long wait I finally got the call from Ernest my compliance guy saying that the car is complied and has just sent away the paperwork for the plate.

I have purchased a few mods already and was wondering what mods should come first. To give you all an idea i already have bought the following items,

18" Nismo mags

BOV

Front mount intercooler (from shift) ex a/m GTR

Turbo Timer

I really got to get a pod filter and mad wagon has given me some details on a place to get an exhaust from the turbo back. Another friend also suggested that i may need to get a boost control of some kind due to pressure being lost in the intercooler cause its much bigger than the stock one.

Any other mods to start??

hey growtalski,

Me too, getting mine this week... or next! sent an email to graham ( driftt's contact) regarding the bodykit you also enquired about.

Just out of curiousity, wat width n offset are your rims? I've got a set of 18"- 9 +24offset ssr professor sp-1 rims. Tried to fit them on another stagea but seems to stick out in the rear. For now will fit on a set of r33Gtr 17"s

Just got my full front kit from Dolphin last week. Excellent quality! Need sides n rear now!

Mods to come along:

1) hks pod filter

2) Front mount I/C

3) Exhaust

4) turbo

5) boost controller+ bf defi gauges

6) Recaros

7) remove the frigggin' airbag with a momo race

8) Better brakes ( r33/34gtr Brembos would b mmm!)

The Sin has begun!

I'd do the engine mods something like this;

1. Full 3 inch exhaust and high flow cat

2. High flow panel filter in stock airbox

3. Adj exh cam gear

4. Front mount intercooler (GTR etc..) or upgraded side mount (in stock location)

5. SAFC II (or simular) to fix the stupidly rich A/F mixtures you'll have.

May need fuel pump depending on power level and what your target HP is.

mg181 - be careful about removing the air bag steering wheel, I think it's a big defect if you do. I personally like the safety feature.

J

Hey all, After a long wait I finally got the call from Ernest my compliance guy saying that the car is complied and has just sent away the paperwork for the plate.

I have purchased a few mods already and was wondering what mods should come first. To give you all an idea i already have bought the following items,

18" Nismo mags

BOV

Front mount intercooler (from shift) ex a/m GTR  

Turbo Timer

I really got to get a pod filter and mad wagon has given me some details on a place to get an exhaust from the turbo back. Another friend also suggested that i may need to get a boost control of some kind due to pressure being lost in the intercooler cause its much bigger than the stock one.  

Any other mods to start??

My Suggestions;

A. Sell the turbo timer, it's a waste of money and a good place for the thieves to power up and drive it away. It only idles the engine, if you have been thrashing what about brakes, gearbox, transfer case, diffs etc, turbo timer does nothing for them. Better to do an extra lap of the block and let the airflow help it along.

B. Sell the BOV, it's an auto, there are better ways to spend your money. Nothing wrong with the standard one.

What I am doing.........

1. Shock absorbers, gotta get some Bilsteins in there, the standard shocks are not so good when new and past 60k's are useless. Gunna stick a pair of Whiteline stabiliser bars on it at the same time. I will get some extra circlip grooves machined into the Bilsteins, so I get the height where I want it. The standard spring rate feels pretty good to me. And some adj radius rod bushes so I can add some caster, the turn in is lethargic and the steering too light.

2. Exhaust is always first on a turbo engine, I am doing turbo back with long split dump and high flow cat that I already have.

3. Pipercross panel filter, I already have one ready to go in.

4. Transmission cooler, the auto gets quite hot, so I am not taking any chances it's getting a large transmission cooler, now.

5. Boost controller, I have an Autospeed (twin Norgren valves) boost controller.

6. Normally it would be intercooler here, I don't know about you but the fuel consumption is over the top. So I might just stick the SAFC in early.

7. Intercooler and alloy pipework, I already have one off the race R32 GTST (it's getting a bigger one).

8. Time for the ball bearing high flow turbo, got one of those as well, off The R32 GTST.

Target 200 awkw and 6,500 newtons. that should put a few victims in the rear vision mirror. :wassup:

Target 200 awkw and 6,500 newtons. that should put a few victims in the rear vision mirror. :wassup:

I've said it before and I'll say it again.... TRUE SLEEPER :D

Just on the trans cooler - is it worth while upgrading if your not going to do any towing, just the very occasional traffic lights drag ?

Good to see that mine isn't the only Stagea that like to drink either :(

J

Congratulations to you all...pioneering the Stagea way in Aust :P.

Was having this very conversation with Justin (Rezz) as we were surprised to see how popular the Stagea is with you all. As it doesn't have have a big following here, only as popular as the GTO guys in terms of those who end up tuning them. I don't particularly fancy the C34 but have recommended a Neo version C34 to a mate of mine.

Silver is always nice hey Christian :D

Mcnamg - Are you sitting down ? Usually get around 16lt per 100km !!! But for the last tank I gave it a bit of hard driving to test the new Hankook 104's... Got about 18lt per 100km. I'll be changing the O2 sensor soon, I tested it and it wasn't giving the expected voltage (as per the service manual), so changing it may give me better fuel econ.

PranK - Very cool :P I've got a silver one too :D I've got a few pics of it up in the ACT 'Members Rides' thread.

Evo-Lee - Thanks man :rant: Would love to get some tuning advise from your (Japan) way. Not much is in english though :D But that's all the fun of it, starting the fad going.

J

aww crap i have been telling my wife that they are really good on the furl so they wont cost us much at all oh well i wont tell her till we get it then she cant make me sell hopefully :P

hey prank congratulations. did you just get the stagea because you didnt want to put a bike rack on the GTR?

nah seriously good to see so many people going the sleeper wagon way

need to see some more pics!!

i second the fuel issue, bloody guzzles when your havin fun, taking the twists passed hinze damn cost me half tank. All relevant on how you drive it really, accelerate slowly and gradually, keep even vehicle speed, give yourslf plenty of room for braking and you should get about 12L/100km, but seriously, :wassup: i can't help myself in my stagey.. :headspin:

ha ha ha mcnamg, i might just do that. :mad::(

Lucien, yeah mate, i am going to make sure that i am unable to see OUT of the car, let along people seeing IN. :mad: :headbang:

Nick, would have liked it, but SOOOO expensive still and I believe that compliance is an issue with them still?? :confused:

Jay, so nice man!! I am super keen on the 260RS kit for mine :D

Evo-Lee - Thanks man :(  Would love to get some tuning advise from your (Japan) way.  Not much is in english though :mad:  But that's all the fun of it, starting the fad going.

Jay, I'm sure you're all more knowledgeable than I'm in tuning the RB. I'm more a jack of all trade but master of none…knowing a little bit of this and that :D except for the 4G63 of course. I understand it's hard for you guys to get information on the Stagea especially when all the information is in Japanese. Since you ask, I just did a quick dig to see what I had from the years of TAS I have been attending. So here are a few brief specs to help kick start your Stagea tuning journey. I've purposely posted a good range of different power levels as not everyone wants a drag monster, it is afterall a family car :mad:. These are by no means the best these shops can tune but rather just what they have done to their Stagea demo car. I'm sure if you do a shop search you will find the full specs.

Have fun guys.

C34 Stageas...

950ps, T88-34D, IN272/EX280: Hyper Dolphin 260RS

800ps+, T67-25G 10cm2 x 2, IN280/EX280: Car Shop F-1 260RS

720ps/70kgm, T51 turbo: Garage Saurus 260RS

600ps, HKS T45S: Autech Tsukada RS Four V

530ps @1.3bar, GT2530x2: ST Garage 260RS

500ps @1.5bar, IHI RX6, IN256/EX256: Auto Select RS Four

491ps/54.7kgm, GT2510x2: Fujimura Auto 260RS

464.8ps/51.4kgm, BNR34 turbox2, IN264/EX264: HKS Kansai 260RS

463ps/48.6kgm, CP T450 SPL turbo kit: CP Tatebayashi RS Four V

460ps @1.3bar, BNR34 N1 turbo: Autoland Vortex 260RS

430ps @1.2bar, RB26DETT: HKS Tokyo Service RS Four V

400ps @1.3bar, GT2835 Pro: Hyper Dolphin RS Four V

380ps @1.0bar, GT2835: HKS Kyushu RS Four

376.8ps/53.5kgm @1.2bar, GT2535: HKS Kansai RS Four V

350ps @0.85bar, GT2535, RB2.65L kit: Power Garage Testarossa RS Four

350ps/44kgm @1.2bar, T04E/T3 Hybrid: Zenitani 25X Four

340ps: Build Garage RS Four V

330ps, GT2535: Midori Seibi Center RS Four

320ps @1.4bar: Garage Reckless 25t RS Four

300ps @0.9bar: Dream Factory 25t RS Four S

300ps @1.2bar: Signal Auto RS Four

PS. most of these shops you should be familiar with from Skyline/GT-R tuning.

forgive my stupidity as I have always wondered this but always been to embarrassed to ask but hey no pain no gain. anyways whats the conversion from ps into kilowatts and likewise whats the conversion from hp to kilowatts (i should know this one but have forgotten it :D )

:)

p.s sorry about taking over your post grow :D

i will write those down and stick them to my monitor so that i dont forget them

are there any other mods that a stagea owner should conisder doing to imrove handling and general performance such as the brakes. do they need to be upgraded or are they quite good

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • 2 spots that my exhaust guy joined the 2 pipes together  Made a big difference. I'm now able to live with it. I can make it louder if I want by removing the HKS caps.
    • Hi all, considering clutch upgrade to support 1130 engine hp from 1650cc injectors on e50 at 85% duty cycle (1650 x (11.85/14.7) x 85%). Narrows down to these three as they can be converted to use gm 26 spline input shaft if I ever want to use transmission with that input shaft (orc1000f and r3c easy/cheap just change center hub; tr2cd pricier must change clutch discs). Pricing orc1000f similar to tr2cd, r3c about usd 200 pricier. Orc1000f triple plate 200mm. Tr2cd twin plate 215mm. R3c triple plate 215mm. Claimed max torque : orc 1000f 723 lbs ft; tr2cd 800 lbs ft; r3c 1100 lbs ft. Why orc1000f triple plate but claims lower max torque vs tr2cd twins? Is orc1000f underrated? Any info maxing out these clutches? Info on street/traffic driveability/pedal feel? Thank you for any info on them.
    • Some troubleshooting, connect up a timing light/gun with a proper ignition lead on coil 1. Hold the revs at 4~4500rpm and see if your timing is all over the shop, scattering off its tits. If so, there's a high chance your CAS is fked. But I read you have a Link ECU ready to go in, why not just skip all this and put that in - will make troubleshooting so much easier.  
    • Misfires when the car is fully warm are generally attributed to the coils (and/or the igniter, on cars with a separate igniter). They can stop working properly when they get hot for a number of reasons. Either electric/electronic, or from thermal expansion opening up gaps and allowing HV leakage. Seeing as you have replaced the coils, that could/should rule them out. But I wouldn't always assume so. Were the coils genuine? Or is there a chance you have bought some counterfeit Chinesium shit? Then we're back onto loom connections. They can fail when warm/hot for the same reasons. Inspections, cleaning of contact surfaces, ensuring that terminals are fully inserted, etc etc, are all justified. The same (heat effects) holds true for the other electrics and their connectors. AFM & CAS, primarily. If you try that Chinesium AFM, drive it around on low load until it is properly hot, but do'nt give it more load than you have to, except when you need to see if it will still miss. I'm dead serious about the untrustworthiness of the calibration of those copy AFMs. Injectors are unlikely to get hot unless the fuel is coming back around hot. You could try squirting them with compressed air or freeze spray to cool them back down to see if they are maybe the cause.
    • Alright, all the plugs looks good. Noticed that it starts to get bad when the car is up to temp, that's when things starts to misfire hard. next to do is Injector cleaning and such. Got in touch with a shop to do work on the injectors next Monday also help on diagnosis.
×
×
  • Create New...