Jump to content
SAU Community

Break Rotor Issues??

Guest RedLineGTR

By Guest RedLineGTR,
in Suspension, braking, tyres and drivetrain

 Share

Recommended Posts

Guest RedLineGTR

Guest RedLineGTR

Posted
Posted

Over the past couple of days I noticed that my brake rotors that they are getting are getting dark, light black circles look like they car forming and the rotor doesn’t feel that smooth cross those dark lines. I intent to pop some photos up tomorrow afternoon so people know what I am on about.

Don’t know if this is a issues with the pads that I am using atm which at the time of the purchase of the car I had the rotors machined and new performance pads (no idea what they are) installed this was from "brakes plus" only place I knew of at the time.

I don't think they were getting dark at all maybe a couple of months ago, so I have no idea what the deal is??

Any info or comments would be great.

Thanks For Your Time. Rob

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/51010-break-rotor-issues/
Share on other sites
blind_elk Grand Master

blind_elk

Posted
Posted

Have you been applying heavy braking recently? Sounds like the resin from the brake pads is over-heating and depositing on the rotors.

Bendix Ultimates is what I recommend - available thru your local Autobarn.

AutoTrust Mentor

AutoTrust

Posted
Posted

Rob, the problem here is that you are obviously driving like a complete vagina, thrash your car up to top speed and jam the brakes on and you will soon see if there are any real problems, also bendix ultimates SUCK they are good for turning your wheels black in 5 minutes, next pads i will use are ferodo

hope this helps mate, :D

Duncan Grand Master

Duncan

Posted
Posted

nothing wrong with bendix ultimates, I use them on the track all the time.

as long as there are no cracks on the rotors, they still work, and you dont get a shuddering through them when you brake hard they should be fine.

Guest RedLineGTR

Guest RedLineGTR

Posted
Posted

The main aspects I am concerned about are the fact that they don’t much my rotors up and the brake dust aspect as I have White wheels on the car atm, for some track days I’m going to be doing a bit later on I will change the brake pads to something else.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • sinn3r
      R34 Skyline climate control unit transistor

      By sinn3r · Posted

      perhaps i should have mentioned, I plugged the unit in before i handed over to the electronics repair shop to see what damaged had been caused and the unit worked (ac controls, rear demister etc) bar the lights behind the lcd. i would assume that the diode was only to control lighting and didnt harm anything else i got the unit back from the electronics repair shop and all is well (to a point). The lights are back on and ac controls are working. im still paranoid as i beleive the repairer just put in any zener diode he could find and admitted asking chatgpt if its compatible   i do however have another issue... sometimes when i turn the ignition on, the climate control unit now goes through a diagnostics procedure which normally occurs when you disconnect and reconnect but this may be due to the below   to top everything off, and feel free to shoot me as im just about to do it myself anyway, while i was checking the newly repaired board by plugging in the climate control unit bare without the housing, i believe i may have shorted it on the headunit surround. Climate control unit still works but now the keyless entry doesnt work along with the dome light not turning on when you open the door. to add to this tricky situation, when you start the car and remove the key ( i have a turbo timer so car remains on) the keyless entry works. the dome light also works when you switch to the on position. fuses were checked and all ok ive deduced that the short somehow has messed with the smart entry control module as that is what controls the keyless entry and dome light on door opening   you guys wouldnt happen to have any experience with that topic lmao... im only laughing as its all i can do right now my self diagnosed adhd always gets me in a situation as i have no patience and want to get everything done in shortest amount of time as possible often ignoring crucial steps such as disconnecting battery when stuffing around with electronics or even placing a simple rag over the metallic headunit surround when placing a live pcb board on top of it   FML
    • dbm7
      R34 Skyline climate control unit transistor

      By dbm7 · Posted

      Bit of a pity we don't have good images of the back/front of the PCB ~ that said, I found a YT vid of a teardown to replace dicky clock switches, and got enough of a glimpse to realize this PCB is the front-end to a connected to what I'll call PCBA, and as such this is all digital on this PCB..ergo, battery voltage probably doesn't make an appearance here ; that is, I'd expect them to do something on PCBA wrt power conditioning for the adjustment/display/switch PCB.... ....given what's transpired..ie; some permutation of 12vdc on a 5vdc with or without correct polarity...would explain why the zener said "no" and exploded. The transistor Q5 (M33) is likely to be a digital switching transistor...that is, package has builtin bias resistors to ensure it saturates as soon as base threshold voltage is reached (minimal rise/fall time)....and wrt the question 'what else could've fried?' ....well, I know there's an MCU on this board (display, I/O at a guess), and you hope they isolated it from this scenario...I got my crayons out, it looks a bit like this...   ...not a lot to see, or rather, everything you'd like to see disappears down a via to the other side...base drive for the transistor comes from somewhere else, what this transistor is switching is somewhere else...but the zener circuit is exclusive to all this ~ it's providing a set voltage (current limited by the 1K3 resistor R19)...and disappears somewhere else down the via I marked V out ; if the errant voltage 'jumped' the diode in the millisecond before it exploded, whatever that V out via feeds may have seen a spike... ....I'll just imagine that Q5 was switched off at the time, thus no damage should've been done....but whatever that zener feeds has to be checked... HTH
    • 25RBGT
      Got this r31 silhouette flood car to rebuild.

      By 25RBGT · Posted

      First time we have seen lights 
    • Wazmond
      WGNC34 - floor mats

      By Wazmond · Posted

      I think Fitmit had some, have a look on there (theyre Australian as well)
    • soviet_merlin
      Howdy Y'all

      By soviet_merlin · Posted

      Hah, fair enough! But if you learn with this one you can drive any other OEM manual. No modern luxury features like auto rev-matching or hillstart assist to give you a false sense of confidence. And a heavy car with not that much torque so it stalls easily. 
×
×
  • Create New...