Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 90
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

My Budget RB20DET-

 

Imported with HKS Super Dragger exhaust and K&N Big Mother air pod

Added TurboSmart boost controller - $250, dynoed @ 150rwkw

Added Dump Pipe - $300

Added Cold Air Induction - Free

Added RB25 Turbo - $350

Added Front-Mount - $500 (inc pipes, see http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...ead.php?t=47918)

Added additional Cold Air Induction - $50

 

Next I want to remap the ECU and then it's time to Dyno it again. Hopeing to be around 200rwkw for around $1K. Then that's it with RB20DET, move on before blowing the budget.

I don't think you can achieve a real 200rwkw with the small stock injectors, from the dyno i have experience with, the stock injectors will max out 180rwkw and by then the mixtures will be fairly lean at that.

My Rb20 with RB25 turbo, pod and 3" turbo back exhaust did only 130 rwkw with stock boost and everything else and 11.3 A/F ratio.

My RB20 did 150rwkw with 3" cat back exhaust, pod and turbo smart boost controller on the UAS dyno. What Dyno where you running it on? I've now got a FMIC, 3" dump pipe, CAI and an RB25 turbo, hasnt been dyno'ed with the latest mods yet however.

my 2c...which aint much :)

 

buy a rb30 bottom end from wreckers (mine cost $100 ;))

buy an rb25de head (mine cost $750)

do a std bottom end rebuild of the rb30 using same pistons, just hone, new rings and bearings ($850?)

 

bolt on head to block, drill tap tensioner, $30 timing belt, 2x rb30 tensioners ($80 ea)

 

how much so far?...using rb20 sump, manifolds, turbo (i am to start :)) water pump, rb20 oil pump....no costs here.

 

redrill engine mounts to lower engine, plug in rb20 sensors, mod front pipe.

 

done...turn key and watch the rb30 rumble for under 2k.

 

But as they say...the spending never stops once it starts....i wish i had kept to the plan above and watch people grin :)

 

Seriously though i had the same drama as you. Rb20 blew, and went the rb31. Never look back now :)

The rebuild costs your mentioning, is that doing it yourself? Would there be the need for any boring or machining?

don't think you can achieve a real 200rwkw with the small stock injectors, from the dyno i have experience with, the stock injectors will max out 180rwkw and by then the mixtures will be fairly lean at that

Na stock injectors are good for 200-220rwkw. my 32 makes 190rwkw with stock injectors, pump, reg etc no worries.

I didn't think you could put the rb20 head onto the rb30 bottom end? Is what your saying just a miss type? Or can it really be done?

Using my Rb20 head would be a lot more easy, then looking for an rb25 head if I went that way with a motor build up.

Shoot about 10 years ago using an RB20 cylinder head on RB30's was common. It is a prick of a job, welding, redrilling machining etc. But the result was better than a SOHC cylinder head. Wouldn't even think of doing it now with RB25 cylinder head's being so common and RB26 top ends being almost affordable. :P

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
    • Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
×
×
  • Create New...