Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 90
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

My Budget RB20DET-

 

Imported with HKS Super Dragger exhaust and K&N Big Mother air pod

Added TurboSmart boost controller - $250, dynoed @ 150rwkw

Added Dump Pipe - $300

Added Cold Air Induction - Free

Added RB25 Turbo - $350

Added Front-Mount - $500 (inc pipes, see http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...ead.php?t=47918)

Added additional Cold Air Induction - $50

 

Next I want to remap the ECU and then it's time to Dyno it again. Hopeing to be around 200rwkw for around $1K. Then that's it with RB20DET, move on before blowing the budget.

I don't think you can achieve a real 200rwkw with the small stock injectors, from the dyno i have experience with, the stock injectors will max out 180rwkw and by then the mixtures will be fairly lean at that.

My Rb20 with RB25 turbo, pod and 3" turbo back exhaust did only 130 rwkw with stock boost and everything else and 11.3 A/F ratio.

My RB20 did 150rwkw with 3" cat back exhaust, pod and turbo smart boost controller on the UAS dyno. What Dyno where you running it on? I've now got a FMIC, 3" dump pipe, CAI and an RB25 turbo, hasnt been dyno'ed with the latest mods yet however.

my 2c...which aint much :)

 

buy a rb30 bottom end from wreckers (mine cost $100 ;))

buy an rb25de head (mine cost $750)

do a std bottom end rebuild of the rb30 using same pistons, just hone, new rings and bearings ($850?)

 

bolt on head to block, drill tap tensioner, $30 timing belt, 2x rb30 tensioners ($80 ea)

 

how much so far?...using rb20 sump, manifolds, turbo (i am to start :)) water pump, rb20 oil pump....no costs here.

 

redrill engine mounts to lower engine, plug in rb20 sensors, mod front pipe.

 

done...turn key and watch the rb30 rumble for under 2k.

 

But as they say...the spending never stops once it starts....i wish i had kept to the plan above and watch people grin :)

 

Seriously though i had the same drama as you. Rb20 blew, and went the rb31. Never look back now :)

The rebuild costs your mentioning, is that doing it yourself? Would there be the need for any boring or machining?

don't think you can achieve a real 200rwkw with the small stock injectors, from the dyno i have experience with, the stock injectors will max out 180rwkw and by then the mixtures will be fairly lean at that

Na stock injectors are good for 200-220rwkw. my 32 makes 190rwkw with stock injectors, pump, reg etc no worries.

I didn't think you could put the rb20 head onto the rb30 bottom end? Is what your saying just a miss type? Or can it really be done?

Using my Rb20 head would be a lot more easy, then looking for an rb25 head if I went that way with a motor build up.

Shoot about 10 years ago using an RB20 cylinder head on RB30's was common. It is a prick of a job, welding, redrilling machining etc. But the result was better than a SOHC cylinder head. Wouldn't even think of doing it now with RB25 cylinder head's being so common and RB26 top ends being almost affordable. :P

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ah. OK. I take it back. I hadn't looked closely at the R33/4 arms and presumed that GKTech did as GKTech do everywhere else, which is to use sphericals there. The poly bushings are made to be 100% interchangeable, should use the standard bolt just fine. Every other bush in every other place in pretty much every other car, does.
    • @silviaz Ok cool, so much easier with a video. I can see why this video would be confusing for new players.   It is obvious that this entire bonnet is going to be resprayed, have a look in the background around 2:05, you can see a bunch of bare metal on the left side of the bonnet.  It's not an issue for the primer being laid down on the non-prepped clear on the bonnet. It will be sanded off at a later stage.  This might not be obvious to new players, but working on bare metal and factory paint in this instance, the factory paint is like a mountain and the bare metal is a huge valley. The bonnet needs to be levelled flat before it receives it's final stage of colour and clear coat. During this levelling process, the primer that is landing on the clear that you are worried about will be removed.  Also, this guy is out of control. Zero PPE while spraying, maybe he is a good example overall about what not to do lol.
    • Ok I FINALLY found a video lol. This took way longer than it should have as I could have sworn I saw multiple videos like this. I kept finding the completely opposite (the correct way of doing this). I wouldn't be surprised if I f**ked this up somehow.  I just realised where I've been getting confused and even with other things I work on. I haven't been doing things the regular way instead I'm going a roundabout way of doing things, like putting epoxy primer first then filler for example instead of putting just filler then primer on top of that, then wondering what happens if I get that primer on the clear coat that I haven't sanded yet. This was a bit of an epiphany 😂  But anyways, here this video. Time stamp, 2:56, some of the primer lands on the paint unscuffed above. You can see from the reflection it looks shiny.  
    • It does, this part circled in red. I assume the OEM bolt might not work well with the poly bushing because the dimensions may be different?
    • The J arm doesn't have bushes either. Assuming that by "J arm" you mean the part of the upright that runs down from the upper arm's outer bushes to the top of the hub. That has a kingpin style bearing in it. If you meant the lower control arm, it has 1 bush, at its inner end. If you have PU in there, that is superior to Nismo rubber. If you meant the caster/tension rod - it has 1x bush at the front end, and again PU is superior to Nismo rubber. But as I said above, I would definitely get the GKTech arms for that, as sphericals slay all other options there.
×
×
  • Create New...