Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i have for sale;

gtr sideskirts (grey) in good condition $200 (SOLD)

Gtr rear wing with GTR embedded sides $300

Rear boot 1996 gtst r33 $300

stantard r33 gtst turbo excellent condition 60000ks $400

standard i/c $200

with plumbing $ 400

i can aslo get a rear diff, tailshaft and fuel pump if anyone is interested.

*all parts from 1996 r33 gtst

*prices are negotiable

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/5119-96-r33-gtst-parts/
Share on other sites

yeas i drifted this awsome drift in mill park so i had to go and do it again around this roundabout and the car oversteered into a pole. So i salvaged whatever i could and i am now trying to sell it.

Nah just joking!!!!!!!!!

im just selling some parts for a friend.

thanks for interest though

im not sure if it is an original wing though! i have to take it off the boot to see if is fiberglsass or not. Those GTR sides stick out a little.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/5119-96-r33-gtst-parts/#findComment-78943
Share on other sites

Can you please email me detailed photos of the rear wing and bootlid?

If I'm happy with the condition, I'll take them for $450..

[email protected]

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/5119-96-r33-gtst-parts/#findComment-81437
Share on other sites

i still have the wing alhtough i want to sell it together with the boot.  

$450 with boot and swivel badge.  

This is becasue i cannot remove the wing from the boot.

Originally posted by confak

As i cannot remove the rear wing i am selling the boot and wing together. they are the gunmetal grey colour

 

price: $500

Putting the price up? whats the story?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/5119-96-r33-gtst-parts/#findComment-82925
Share on other sites

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I saw you mention this earlier and it raised a red flag, but I couldn't believe it was real. Yes, the vacuum signal should vary. It is the one and only load signal from the engine to the ECU, and it MUST vary. It is either not connected or is badly f**ked up in some way.
    • @Haggerty you still haven't answered my question.  Many things you are saying do not make sense for someone who can tune, yet I would not expect someone who cannot tune to be playing with the things in the ECU that you are.  This process would be a lot quicker to figure out if we can remove user error from the equation. 
    • If as it's stalling, the fuel pressure rises, it's saying there's less vacuum in the intake manifold. This is pretty typical of an engine that is slowing down.   While typically is agree it sounds fuel related, it really sounds fuel/air mixture related. Since the whole system has been refurbished, including injectors, pump, etc, it's likely we've altered how well the system is delivering fuel. If someone before you has messed with the IACV because it needed fiddling with as the fuel system was dieing out, we need to readjust it back. Getting things back to factory spec everywhere, is what's going to help the entire system. So if it idles at 400rpm with no IACV, that needs raising. Getting factory air flow back to normal will help us get everything back in spec, and likely help chase down any other issues. Back on IACV, if the base idle (no IACV plugged in) is too far out, it's a lot harder for the ECU to control idle. The IACV duty cycle causes non linear variations in reality. When I've tuned the idle valves in the past, you need to keep it in a relatively narrow window on aftermarket ecus to stop them doing wild dances. It also means if your base idle is too low, the valve needs to open too much, and then the smallest % change ends up being a huge variation.
    • I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
    • AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
×
×
  • Create New...