Jump to content
SAU Community

Challenges involed installing turbo back exhaust??

nmcmahon83

By nmcmahon83,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

nmcmahon83 Proficient

nmcmahon83

Posted
Posted

Hi guys,

I'm pretty new to all this modding stuff, and I'm planning on having a crack at puting on my Blitz turbo back exhaust this weekend. I have my brother and father telling me i'll need a hoist, but I never listen to them anyway. :(

Could people out there give me any suggestions/pointers as to how to go about this as I am not the most competant person with a socket wrench ;)

Cheers. :rofl:

The Mafia Grand Master

The Mafia

Posted
Posted

well, its easy. We did it in about 30 mins on my Series II R33.

You'll need this tube of stuff that is pretty much a liquid gasket, put alot on and join the pipes. I have forgotten that name, but its good shit. Sets when the heat gets into it.

You'll need some bolt off, and a good socket set.

The ONLY hard part about doing this is the dump pipe. Getting it off the back of the turbo without snapping bolts. If you can do this, then it will be a walk in the park.

I suggest putting the car on a hoist, or over a pit, and going to work. I am lucky enough to have a mate that has a hoist, just to work on all of our cars, and that helps 500%.

Hoists are like a gift from god, when you have access to one easily.

But its not a hard job, just be prepared if you snap a bolt or something like that.

Also, its easy to just take the exhaust off from the back of the front pipe all in one piece. Then do the dump on its own

nmcmahon83 Proficient

nmcmahon83

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Cheers... sounds like I may be out of my depth, but I have nothing to lose so i'll give it a shot haha... where would I get this 'tube of stuff' from hehe?

I'll talk to the guys at autobarn (gf's friend) and i'l lsee if he has any stuff like it.

Anyone else got suggestions?

raz0r$harP.UK Grand Master

raz0r$harP.UK

Posted
Posted

Just got mine done a few days ago. I had to do was slightly modify the turbo heat shield to fit the bigger dump pipe. The bigger problem was that my rear driveshaft was too close to the centre muffler I have on my exhaust, and it actually began rubbing. I simply solved that by putting a spacer in off the nearest exhaust hanger.

AUtobarn, Repco, etc should all have the gasket glue and items that you need.

  • 8 months later...
Wink Grand Master

Wink

Posted
Posted

Be prepared to break some of the bolts holding the turbo and dump together. Your car is fairly old (93) so I'm sure some of the bolts have been rusted up. If you break a bolt, you have to drill out the remnants of the bolt and then tap new bolts in. There are six bolts in total.

Bass Junky Grand Master

Bass Junky

Posted
Posted

Pete's method.

Take to exhaust shop, say "This should take about 30 minutes. How much is your labour per hour, oh $65 bucks, Sounds good. I'll wait."

Job done in 30 minutes, and if they snap a bolt, they have everything there to fix it.

BASS OUT

Bobjones Mentor

Bobjones

Posted
Posted
Pete's method.

Take to exhaust shop, say "This should take about 30 minutes.  How much is your labour per hour, oh $65 bucks, Sounds good.  I'll wait."

Job done in 30 minutes, and if they snap a bolt, they have everything there to fix it.

BASS OUT

:werd:

lwells Grand Master

lwells

Posted
Posted

Gasket goop is not really a great idea IMHO: your better off getting replacement gaskets. Do it right the first time. Besides, if you ever take it apart you'll be cursing yourself when you have to spend half and hour trying to clean hardened gasket goop crap off every joint.

Lucien.

PSI_GTSII Experienced

PSI_GTSII

Posted
Posted

Yes proper gaskets not gasket goo is the way to go :)

Yes gettin an exhaust shop to do it is also recommended for the reletively small outlay (do your knuckles a favour :) )

If you do decide to have a crack, and on your car it should'nt be to difficult, gewt under there now and spray a shit load of CRC on all bolts to be undone....it will make life a lot easier when you come to do it ;)

46n2 Mentor

46n2

Posted
Posted

a hoist will make life easier. I did mine with the help of a friend with a hoist, and it took half a day (it should have been much simpler). The stock brackets that hold up the exhaust near the cat on a 32 were too small, and as the 3" has a larger ext. diameter (obviously) they wouldn't fit, and needed to be attacked with a grinder. the pain of trial and error until we got it right...

Also agree go out and get some real gaskets :)

xr8eater Experienced

xr8eater

Posted
Posted

always use new gaskets with gasket goo it's an added advantage thats what they do with space shuttles they cant be wrong

in saying that i do realise a car isn't a space shuttle i just like to use the techniques of the best mechanics in the world

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • RP1421
      S15 Spec R

      By RP1421 · Posted

      As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
    • perry_r33
      R34 GTR Vspec Garage Sale - All must go!

      By perry_r33 · Posted

      Pm sent 
    • Robot
      Skyline v36 350GT sedan hunting on idle

      By Robot · Posted

      Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • GabsReDeal
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By GabsReDeal · Posted

      After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
×
×
  • Create New...