Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Three types;

#1 recycles the brake fluid via a cooler tank, usually filled with ice or a normal cooler

#2 squirts water onto the rotors when brakes applied (hell on the rotors)

#3 recirculates water through special galleries in the brake callipers, uses an electric pump and cooler as in #1

:D

Three types;

#1 recycles the brake fluid via a cooler tank, usually filled with ice or a normal cooler

I was only aware of #3 (#2 I thought nobody would actually do)

#1 would be a nice setup. I would like to see how it all works, I can't quite imagine how you would do it without causing problems by pumping the fluid around.

#2 is how the formula 1 cars used to do it....and handily enough they would carry 20l of water to throw on the brakes and end up 20kg light, Im pretty sure they changed the regs to wiegh cars after the race after that :)

I was only aware of #3 (#2 I thought nobody would actually do)

#1 would be a nice setup. I would like to see how it all works, I can't quite imagine how you would do it without causing problems by pumping the fluid around.

#1 is used on Nascars, pretty simple concept. As well as the normal brake line from the master cylinder, they have a one way valve in the calliper, which is closed when pressure is applied (put foot on brake pedal). When pressure is removed (take foot off brake pedal) the valve opens and lets the residual pressure squirt a little of the hot brake fluid into another brake line. Usually it would flow back into the normal brake line and push some fluid from the line back into the master cylinder. This other brake line is connected to a cooler and then back to the top of the master cylinder.

So a little bit of hot fluid from each calliper goes via the cooler back to the master cylinder every time you take you foot off the brakes. This means that after a lap of so, all of the brake fluid has been circulated through the cooler.

This system also lowers the brake fluid temperature in the calliper instantly because it removes some hot fluid, which is replaced by cooler fluid from the brake line next time the brakes are applied.

It is a bitch to set up, if you have any pad knock off there is no residual pressure in the brake lines and you end up with a long brake pedal. So this system needs careful tuning of the one way valve and can not be used if there is any run out on the rotors.

Hope that helps (and makes some sense) :D

Water cooled....you would get more from useing a more modern approach to braking.

Everything in bold below is what should be done to std. braking systems before looking at expensive upgrades. But if you want to spend your money I do have New AP rotors for sale 355x35 ($700pair) and 328x28 ($600pair) look at the other upgrades first though.

Calipers.........exoctic alloys, Ti pistons and numbers of pistons etc.

Rotors...........cooling vane design, slotting etc....diameter/thickness and materials (carbon and or other compositions, diameter and thickness...all represent different acceptable operating heat ranges)...rotors are not just rotors.

PADS.............material composition and opperating heat ranged to suit applications...race, street etc......This is were the costly mistake are made.

BRAKE FLUID...you get what you pay for....different opperating heat range and quality....cheap upgrade for brakes that fade.

BRAKE LINES....another cheap upgrade for brakes that fade...go braided...big difference for the money.

Wheel/Rim choice...size, appertures and design that aid cooling.

Cool air ducting and areo-aided air deflectors on tension rods.

Water cooled....you would get more from useing a more modern approach to braking.

Everything in bold below is what should be done to std. braking systems before looking at expensive upgrades. But if you want to spend your money I do have New AP rotors for sale 355x35 ($700pair) and 328x28 ($600pair) look at the other upgrades first though.

Calipers.........exoctic alloys, Ti pistons and numbers of pistons etc.

Rotors...........cooling vane design, slotting etc....diameter/thickness and materials (carbon and or other compositions, diameter and thickness...all represent different acceptable operating heat ranges)...rotors are not just rotors.

PADS.............material composition and opperating heat ranged to suit applications...race, street etc......This is were the costly mistake are made.

BRAKE FLUID...you get what you pay for....different opperating heat range and quality....cheap upgrade for brakes that fade.

BRAKE LINES....another cheap upgrade for brakes that fade...go braided...big difference for the money.

Wheel/Rim choice...size, appertures and design that aid cooling.

Cool air ducting and areo-aided air deflectors on tension rods.

Don't know about "more modern", whilst all those things are regularly used in competition, so is water cooling. Super Tourers are arguable the most advanced form of sedan racing, ours has twin 4 spot callipers (2 on each wheel) and they have provision for watercooling. The engineering data shows they used watercooling on a number of circuits in England and Europe.

It is an extreme measure though, and very costly. :D

i had a set of brakes from wayne gardner's tohoku toms toyota JZA80 supra....these were awsome...the disc rotor was 16 inch with 6 titanium pistons magnesium body with a cute little radiator!I got them for my friend who still has them but hasnt fitted them yet...but there awsome!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • A few small updates since the previous post and lessons. I decided to do a little interior light upgrade on the 110. I quite like the iilumo items, even if they're a bit of a premium over other brands. You'll also note the Stedi Fogs, that will go into the S15 fog lights as I needed to match the bulbs since I got the new ones earlier. I hope they fit as the body is quite a bit longer than your normal bulb.  Annoyingly, I managed to trip the fuse, which normally wouldn't be an issue until I located the fuse. I can't say I've ever come across this. I had lucked out that someone nearby had a spare, but oddly enough Toyota dealerships seem to keep this in stock. I ordered some to keep in my stash and as luck would have it, someone else nearby tripped the same fuse so I passed on the favour.  I also did a little service on the 110 ahead of some additional work coming up. It's been annoying that Goleby's stopped carrying this particular HKS filter for the 110, so now I need to keep them on order from Japan. I also took the opportunity to install a bash plate and number plate riser. The plate riser is such a cheap but nice fix to help really tidy up the car. I'm tempted to now also replace my headlights, on this car. Both items were from Project Aero.    I also needed to replace the rear tyres on the 110, and after trying to get it aligned learnt that I need to replace some bushes in the front end, so that's next.  Closing out this update with a nicer picture as always! 
    • Yeah mate, never miss it.
    • Any going to watch World Time Attack at SMSP this year?
    • Appreciate the correction on the "ground", that will make a huge difference to looking at this. That makes complete sense about AF70/AF71 which is what I had come down to being the issue, one of these. I'll have another look in the ignition wiring when I get a chance next week. I'll also make up a jumper wire for running that AF73 test.  ECU is fine, relay itself is fine, pump harness is fine and the pump itself is fine. I am going to upgrade the Walbro 255 anyway with a DW300 I have since I need to replace the fuel sender and I'm going to upgrade the FPR with my chasebays kit ready for new plenum/injectors/dbw, but I'll get this working first. That's why this is so frustrating. 
×
×
  • Create New...