Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey everyone,,

i've seen an apexi intercooler for sale,, its meant to be for a r33 gtst,, and i don't know if it'll fit an r34 gtt,, either way,, it designed so that the piping runs behind the cooler as apposed to say the blitz one that has the piping running under the cooler.

anyways,, i have done a sketch of what the cooler looks like,,, and was wondering if anyone here has this sort of setup,, i.e,, the piping running behind the cooler.

from what i can see, it'll mean that the cooler will be way in front of the radiator and may have to be slanted to allow the piping to fit.

if any of you do have a setup like the one i mentioned,, can you please post up some pics,,

anyone see any "performance/cooling" disadvantages of running the piping beind the cooler rather than underneath???

thanks for all you help ,,

Afro

The HKS one is like that.

Works fine for me.

You might want to have the pipe that goes along the back made a bit smaller in diameter so that you dont' have to remove so much of your front bar.

I've got pics here of my install.......

the apexi one is a little diff to that,, the pipe will end up coming right across the air-con fan (will go at an angle from top to bottom),, urs goes just under the fan right? ,,

hey how much did u end up spending on ur cooler?

i've seen only the cooler for sale,, but will have do buy/make up my own piping,,,

can u also give me the dimensions of ur hks cooler please...

did u have to cut/modify ur front bar support to fit the cooler??

thanks heaps dude,,

Afro

Afro.

The APEXI kit is no longer in production. I tried for a long time to get one for the R34 but to no avail.

The radiator suppot does get ground a little, and I had to get the front bar cut a bit.

The HKS kit is 600 (800 overall) x 400 x 63 or 70.

I didn't fit it myself so I'm not sure on the ins and outs but I'm happy with it.

Like I said though, if you are making up the pieps yourself, then make the pipe that goes behind smaller than 3" (the HKS is 3") so that the cooler cna sit back much further which would mean less cutting of the front bar.

If anyone ever hits my front bar and I need a new one (touch wood that it doesn't happen) I will make up a new pipe.

BASS OUT

i was thinking of using 2.5" piping all around,, coz doesn't the engine bay use all 2.5" piping up till the intake manifold? The apexi cooler has 2.5" outlets i think.

or should i use 3" piping from the cooler up till the engine bay?

Do a search on Sydneykid posts about Intercoolers.

Basically, the small the diameter the less lag.

I would say no larger than the smallest bottle neck, as there's no point in having 4 inch piping, if the air has to go through a 2 inch pipe as some stage.

I think most of the R33 ones go through the engine bay, but the R34's all go through the standard pipes.

I think it's mainly to do with the standard Traction control throttle body that means it would be very hard to hand them go accross the top of the engine because of the sharp bend required at the end near the throttle body.

But I may be wrong. It's happened before you know.

RedLineGTR: The HKS cooler that Bass has is the normal spec S (?) kit for the R34, I have previously had the cooler kit fitted on the R34 and like Bass mentioned a bit of cutting is involved in installing the cooler. Oh the kit was purchased locally, if I recall correctly. :rofl:

AFRO: I've seen the apexi cooler you mentioned tho not on a car, pretty sure you will have some problem with the left hand rear out section as you will block part of the air flow to the back of the intercooler. Would be better if you can "rotate" the rear out to more towards the bottom or facing the out to the left. By means of rotate would mean cutting and rewelding is involved? (I'm not sure on how best to approach this, but someone here is bound to be better than me to answer the "rotate" question). :rofl:

ya,, the dimensions of the core is 600 X 280 X 80

that means the front of the cooler will need to be atleast 150mm (80 + 65mm pipe) from the air/con fan if the cooler piping is to clear..

i don't think the rotate thing would be a good idea, don't wanna spend any money modifying it if i buy it,, ya i can sorta see how the piping "could" restrict some of the air flow from the cooler,

but i dont think it would be a major disadvantage ( i hope)

man i can't seem to find any info on this sort of cooler piping,, well mr google hasen't been very helpfull yet , :confused:

hoping someone out there has some pics or comments about this cooler,,,

thanks

Afro

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
    • Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
    • I'm not going to recommend an EBC pad. I don't like them. Just about anything else would suit me better. I've been using Intima pads for a while now.
×
×
  • Create New...