Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

what are u looking for in particular?? all the good stuff comes with a price thats why N1 and EvoR are expensive cause they deal with the goods. if u want cheap tawian rice knock offs then those small stalls are the place to go. otherwise just shop online if u want better prices.

what are u looking for in particular??  all the good stuff comes with a price thats why N1 and EvoR are expensive cause they deal with the goods.  if u want cheap tawian rice knock offs then those small stalls are the place to go.  otherwise  just shop online if u want better prices.

exactly, if you want to purchase things like performance parts in australia then you can dream on if u want a good price. Get everything from Japan and look in the for sale section.

thats nice... but not really anything to do with the topic seeing as ur based in QLD.

CHI - if you do a search on this section/forum for workshop you should find a link to a post with quite a few in it. OR click on the sticky thread that holds all the sticky threads and there should be a thread with a list inc numbers etc. hope it helps

like i said if ur after "performance" stuff then shop online or go second hand to places like UPI like inark suggested for good prices. but if ur after rice then you cant beat springy haha. i think they go for $25 per sack:D:D

check out some of the shops in box hill if ur in that area too. ive forgotten their names though.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Working through possible solutions of converting my mechanical speedo.    Anyone know what type of speedo sensor the factory r34 gtr getrag has ? what the output is ? I assume its not a VSS and more a voltage like earlier speedo sensors ? Can an ECU read it ?  
    • roof rail delete used to be a thing, they were made locally for a while too
    • I can get more photos of it here soon and I plan to make a thread detailing the process. I received the car this way and it sorely needs refinishing. That is probably the most appealing photo of it. Up close it is fading, cracked, and needs to be re-glued. Depending on their condition I'm on the fence between refinishing or making a new set.  Another angle hiding the pimples and razor pumps  
    • According to this thread the RS4V with build plate RC40 comes with the R200 diff @ 4.083 ratio as well (mine has said RC40 denotation). We may need to check if the axle stubs are the same pattern as well. The auto subframes have longer axles. However I think yours being a later Series 2 as well, we should have the same bolt pattern for the diff stubs. Unless your upgraded rear also has upgraded axles. Either way, I would not be opposed to pulling the covers to check so I can inspect that  fancy rear core  Also I don't have HICAS. I don't believe that should change things but I hope the people here with heaps more experience than me can correct me if I'm wrong   Let me know if you want to attempt to make this work and I can get some pictures of mine from under the car. 
    • It's not that straightforward. For example I have had this code because my ignitor/power transistor wires were unplugged. It knows something is wrong but has no idea what it means. If you want to actually diagnose this I recommend following the service manual flowchart for code 21. Ohm out the harness, coilpacks, inspect the ECU, etc. And again, it's entirely possible for there to be no problem at all but if you're running a different coilpack it'll trigger the code because it doesn't like what it sees.
×
×
  • Create New...