Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey all

this may sound like a bit of a stupid question but i have gotten an r32 not long ago now and when purchasing it already had an aftermarket cd player installed (Pioneer). Now there is no aerial on the vehicle and when trying to listen to radio the headunit does not pick up any stations. Now i am wondering if this is due to the way the headunit has been wired up? Can you not get any radio reception in the r32's? Or what could it be?

Any help appreciated, just been giving my cds a good work out and wouldnt mind some radio.

thanx

Jason

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/52105-r32-radio/
Share on other sites

On the R32 the antennae are the fine wires in the front and rear windscreen.

Is your Pioneer deck an aussie or jap model? The jap models only pick up a few aussie stations as the bandwidths overlap a bit.

If it's a jap deck you could have a bandwidth shifter fitted.

If it's an aussie model then it may not have been fitted correctly. I think there is an antenna booster in the boot of some if not all R32s. I've been told the black and red wire, that is taped to the antenna coax that plugs into the back of the deck, needs to be wired to the power antenna (blue) wire that comes out of the deck so the booster can get 12 volts.

When the factory deck is replaced with an aftermarket deck you need an adapter plug.

The factory plug has 2 pins and the a/m deck only uses the pin from the rear windscreen.

One suitable adapter on the market is Aerpro AP348A.

I hope that helps.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/52105-r32-radio/#findComment-1028155
Share on other sites

Hey Jaystar,

I have also just picked up an R32 with an after market radio and had the exact same problem as you, no radio reception. After pulling the deck and checking it turned out that the previous installed had not connect the cores of the cars antenna cable to the core of the adapter plug. 10mins and solder iron fixed that problem. Just be careful as the core wires are really thin and can break real easy if your heavy handed.

Hope that helps.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/52105-r32-radio/#findComment-1029562
Share on other sites

I had the same issue and was due to it being a jap spec radio. Fitted the band expander and all sorted. 2 weeks later i just bought a new headunit.

ok guys i found the black and red wire which has a little plastic connector on it.

Do i remove it from this connector and add a metal male connector on the end of it so i can plug it into the blue and white wire coming off of the headunit?

is this all i have to do? or do i have to do something with the 2 pin connector also?

it looks like an aerial one but doesnt fit on the headunit.

i made an error the current headunit in it is a jvc kd-sx695.

all help appreciated

thanx

Jason

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/52105-r32-radio/#findComment-1034878
Share on other sites

ok i have fitted the adaptor so that i can plug the aerial into back of headunit and radio is working fine. Because my aerial is the little wire built into the windscreen do i still need to hook up this red and black wire to the blue one out of the head unit?

because it says auto aerial or something like that?

if so can someone explain why to me please.

thanx

jason

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/52105-r32-radio/#findComment-1043626
Share on other sites

yes you do. that wire runs a small antenna amplifier. if you switch to AM you will notice that it doesnt work. FM around the city will be fine but outside of it FM will be patchy.

connecting it up ( blue wire on most radio) to the ant control will solve this problem.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/52105-r32-radio/#findComment-1043677
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Dear folks My family members have 4 different cars : Triton 2015 and Corolla 2011 and Mazda3 2012 and Hyundai Elantra 2014 Looking to buy engine oil funnel spill free What I found are are below  https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0BBTTJNKX?ref=ppx_pt2_mob_b_prod_image&th=1 https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/145553221359?srsltid=AfmBOoqYBU6Ptw0LU_bAp_k67U3qkF97HHvePkA7iHZw8vUmiwoIRaRr https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09X23TCS5?th=1 Is there a funnel with attachment that fits most cars ? Don't mind to spend for a decent quality  Thx  
    • Stock ECU (or more accurately stock tune) absolutely refuses to go over 10psi and behaves like you have seen. The Nistune is the same if it is the stock tune. If the Nistune chip has been tuned, the resulting tune could be literally anything for any combination of parts. The Nistune just makes the stock ECU Tunable.
    • So stock ECU does not like anything above 10 psi?  That Nistune one is just for "try" if it will be any different, I know it need to be tune for that. I know but YOU may know about these problem but i/we dont. They few little Skylines here let alone people who know anything about tham so that is why iam asking here  
    • So now we have a radiator with no attachments whatsoever. It lifts up with a particularly tight spot between the drivers side air box mount and the lower radiator outlet, but if you've got this far you will sort that too. This is the lower mounts with the rad out so you can see where the rubber bushes go, it is a straight shot upwards Done! Assembly is the reverse of disassembly, with blood less likely to be shed.
    • Right, onto the second last trick. The Air Con condenser is mounted to the front of the radiator and stays in the car when the radiator is removed. There are 2x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the condenser to the radiator, remove those The bottom of the condenser is attached to the radiator with clips. You need to lift the condenser out of those clips and clear (up, then forward). f**ked if  could work out how to do that last bit with the front bumper on. I hope you can, and you share the trick.  Bumper removal probably deserves its own thread one day once I've recovered the will to live, but basically you need to remove the wheels, front inner guard liners (clips and 10mm headed bolts), the self tapper between the guard and the bumper at the rearmost point of the bumper (same as an R32 that bit), any remaining clips at the top/front of the grill, an absolute bastard design with a plate that holds the top of the bumper above the headlight each side (only 1 bolt which is tricky to get to, but the plate catches 2 places on the bumper and must be removed....carefully!) and push clips between the bumper and guard under the headlight. If you've done all that you will be faced with wiring for the fog lights on both sides and in ADM Q50 RS at least, 4 nasty tight plugs on the driver's side for the ADAS stuff. So, the clips at the bottom look like this on drivers side (looking from the front) And on the passenger side (also from the front), you can see this one is already out Clearance on both of these are super tight; the condenser needs to move up but the upper rad support mount prevents that, and the radiator can't move down far because it is (rubber) mounted. Once you achieve the impossible and drop the condenser off those mounts so it does not stop the rad moving, you are good to go
×
×
  • Create New...