Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Dead stock the car made 115rwkw then with a little bit of fiddling (timing etc) it made 125rwkw.

First Dyno..

152rwkw with 12.5psi & exhaust.

Stock airbox, ECU & IC.

Ran in 3rd gear.. why I don't know.

Second Dyno..

164rwkw with 15psi, exhaust, fmic & bosch910 fuel pump.

Stock airbox & ECU.

Ran in 4th gear..

Also have a run in third gear which made almost the same power (-3rwkw) so gears don't affect the final power output much at all.

In fact a higher gear made more power than the lower gears.

I questioned why and was told in the higher gear the turbo has more time to start pushing some decent air.

-----

Not much more to be had with the poor little old RB20t turbo..

Obviously runs out of efficiency hence not a big gain from 12.5psi -> 15psi.

Tuned ECU and I think it would have cracked 170rwkw easily.

Can someone explain to me why -Joel's- dyno graphs are different in the way that the power curve is. The second graph seems to shoot up faster than the first ?

-Joel- were these runs done in 2 different gears, first run being 3rd a second run being 4th ?

:confused: - Or are these 2 differnt engines ?

They are two different gears as I explained in the post.

I think the biggest reason why the first one looks a little less steep is because the bleeder was probably spiking a little through the mid range and settling on 12.5psi + the lower gear giving the impression it has more mid range.

The second dyno sat on a steady 1bar all the way through the power run and made peak power just over 7000rpm.

Its probably also got a little to do witht he ramp rate or something also as it was wheel spinning when coming on to boost even with a couple of people in the boot (crappy half bald 205's).

Theoretically running a car in different gear will yield a different looking power curve BUT the final power should be basically the same.

Can someone explain to me why -Joel's- dyno graphs are different in the way that the power curve is.

It's just the way they are scaled.

Look at the figures on the bottom and side of the graph.

The first one starts goes from 50 to 130 kmh and power is measured from 40 to 168kw.

The second graph is from 70 to 150 kmh and the power is from 70 to 165kw, but the kw axis is stretched.

If you scaled the kmh axis from 60 kmh to 160 kmh on the second graph, it would look like a very fat power curve.

  • 1 month later...

Apex'i PFC

Z32 AFM

GTR injectors

FMIC

Full exhaust

Pod

HKS GT2535

Stainless manifold

11 psi

It does'nt have the power because of low boost.

- Red lines are on 11psi with no boost controller conected.

- Green lines are with the shitty Turbo Smart boost controller connected and set at 16psi.As you can see boost is all over the place.

I hope to have 300rwhp once boost is turned up.

HYPER31%20214rwhp.JPG

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I've got a 2011 J50 that I imported six years ago. The unmodified factory AV system date and time has always been correct ( Japanese timezone of course ) up until last month. About two weeks ago, at engine start, the system wished me a happy new year ( in Japanese of course ). I can't think of anything that would make the system think that the date had changed, unless the GPS component has failed/reset somehow ? I checked the GPS reception in the system settings, and it can still see the satellites. Has any other J50 owner had this happen ?  It's no biggie, just annoying that it tells me the wrong date anytime I start the engine. 😅
    • Love following your adventures on IG, hopefully if you're still around in Japan when we visit again wouldn't mind going for a few beers with you (that's if you're keen on hearing how I hate Nissans).
    • ok so if i wanted to go 18's i would go for 8's  in front 30+ or 32+ off set at front and the back 9 would be ok? what offset should i aim for.. then can i do some  hunting for wheel rim choices..    If i get this - will this fit all around: Size: 18 x 8.5 +37 - n what tyres size tyre should i get for front n back?  
    • Absolute f*cking nightmare. I had to take breaks constantly, and I was always pissed off when I got home. The line split in Italy on day 2 (we drove from the Netherlands), lol. Driving any narrow European town was... well, sh*t.   Appreciate it man. Here, I'll just drop a favourite from the load I took on Saturday.   I'll update here when things happen with the car, the thing is, with stock power and almost everything chassis-wise taken care of, there really are no problems. 268,000kms now and counting.  
    • Ah! I actually managed to snag a lightly used set.... that aren't so suitable for me right now. They don't work on a GTT without some cutting or creative heat moulding. I thought about reselling them myself cause I didn't want to murder them, but it looks like I'm probably going to attempt to murder them/melt them because I may as well. @GTSBoy @PranK can somebody close this thread?
×
×
  • Create New...