Jump to content
SAU Community

So i havent been really interested in my car lately

doxximus

By doxximus,
in Victoria

 Share

Recommended Posts

doxximus Grand Master

doxximus

Posted
Posted

for a while now actually. i remember i used to look at car part sites and save money for what i wanted and drive my car for fun. but now i pretty much only drive my car on the weekends only, and thats just so the battery doesnt go flat.

instead of spending stupid amounts on my car, im spending on drum kits and cymbals and whatnot. i find myself not wanting to drive at times due to police sightings when im driving my 4wd, and really cbf dealing with getting pulled over and raped.

i mean, spending money on my drums is good as its cheaper because i dont need to service anything as much, and only things that break really are sticks, and they only cost $20 anyway. i need to get my wheels ballanced and alligned and whatever, i dont even know anymore. people come up to me to talk about cars and skylines and i really dont bother anymore, just short stunted replies like "yeah its alright" "meh, its ok" etc. i dont even know what parts are good for my car, and i think i need a service as well? i really need to get my interest back on track.....

..........hopefully theres a huge cruise soon :upurs:

R32Big_boy Veteran

R32Big_boy

Posted
Posted

maybe you should pull your tumb out your a$$. How often do you actually get out in your car and have some fun in it legally. Weather it be at the drags or on a circuit unless you can unleash the beast its going to get mundane after a while. Have fun in a car that was designed to be driven! Nothing gets me in a better mood then opening up the throttle and hearing the boost come and rev's climb up and up.

Enjoy your car.

doxximus Grand Master

doxximus

Posted
  • Author
Posted

what like the jb hifi car? no thanks, i dont want it smashed into the back of a bmw :rolleyes:.

btw i spent $700 not on my car today lol.

im going to start driving it to work more often so i can get into it again. after 2 years i just really got out of interest in it so i better start making it worth getting petrol :rant:

Jetdat Veteran

Jetdat

Posted
Posted

:D nice kit doxximus. I happen to be related to the Zildjian family(although farken distant!)

and know of the quality they offer.

you have good taste in drums, and good taste in cars not to mention in choice of dogs as pets. :)

you will get your interest back in the line soon i am sure.

chubby Apprentice

chubby

Posted
Posted

Hey doxximus

Know exactly what you mean, as mine is a daily driver, getting complacent about the whole import thing. Hmm, perhaps a track day is something i need........ but i better do it soon, just saw a nice audi a4 for sale in the trading post *gulp*

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Nah, that is hella wrong. If I do a simple linear between 150°C (0.407v) and 50°C (2.98v) I get the formula Temperature = -38.8651*voltage + 165.8181 It is perfectly correct at 50 and 150, but it is as much as 20° out in the region of 110°C, because the actual data is significantly non-linear there. It is no more than 4° out down at the lowest temperatures, but is is seriously shit almost everywhere. I cannot believe that the instruction is to do a 2 point linear fit. I would say the method I used previously would have to be better.
    • GTSBoy
      DeAgostini 1/8 scale BNR32 Nissan Skyline GT-R Nismo

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      That's hilariously putrid!
    • GTSBoy
      R33 Fuel Pump & Brakes after alarm swap

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      When I said "wiring diagram", I meant the car's wiring diagram. You need to understand how and when 12V appears on certain wires/terminals, when 0V is allowed to appear on certain wires/terminals (which is the difference between supply side switching, and earth side switching), for the way that the car is supposed to work without the immobiliser. Then you start looking for those voltages in the appropriate places at the appropriate times (ie, relay terminals, ECU terminals, fuel pump terminals, at different ignition switch positions, and at times such as "immediately after switching to ON" and "say, 5-10s after switching to ON". You will find that you are not getting what you need when and where you need it, and because you understand what you need and when, from working through the wiring diagram, you can then likely work out why you're not getting it. And that will lead you to the mess that has been made of the associated wires around the immobiliser. But seriously, there is no way that we will be able to find or lead you to the fault from here. You will have to do it at the car, because it will be something f**ked up, and there are a near infinite number of ways for it to be f**ked up. The wiring diagram will give you wire colours and pin numbers and so you can do continuity testing and voltage/time probing and start to work out what is right and what is wrong. I can only close my eyes and imagine a rat's nest of wiring under the dash. You can actually see and touch it.
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      So I found this: https://www.efihardware.com/temperature-sensor-voltage-calculator I didn't know what the pullup resistor is. So I thought if I used my table of known values I could estimate it by putting a value into the pullup resistor, and this should line up with the voltages I had measured. Eventually I got this table out of it by using 210ohms as the pullup resistor. 180C 0.232V - Predicted 175C 0.254V - Predicted 170C 0.278V - Predicted 165C 0.305V - Predicted 160C 0.336V - Predicted 155C 0.369V - Predicted 150C 0.407V - Predicted 145C 0.448V - Predicted 140C 0.494V - Predicted 135C 0.545V - Predicted 130C 0.603V - Predicted 125C 0.668V - Predicted 120C 0.740V - Predicted 115C 0.817V - Predicted 110C 0.914V - Predicted 105C 1.023V - Predicted 100C 1.15V 90C 1.42V - Predicted 85C 1.59V 80C 1.74V 75C 1.94V 70C 2.10V 65C 2.33V 60C 2.56V 58C 2.68V 57C 2.70V 56C 2.74V 55C 2.78V 54C 2.80V 50C 2.98V 49C 3.06V 47C 3.18V 45C 3.23V 43C 3.36V 40C 3.51V 37C 3.67V 35C 3.75V 30C 4.00V As before, the formula in HPTuners is here: https://www.hptuners.com/documentation/files/VCM-Scanner/Content/vcm_scanner/defining_a_transform.htm?Highlight=defining a transform Specifically: In my case I used 50C and 150C, given the sensor is supposedly for that. Input 1 = 2.98V Output 1 = 50C Input 2 = 0.407V Output 2 = 150C (0.407-2.98) / (150-50) -2.573/100 = -0.02573 2.98/-0.02573 + 47.045 = 50 So the corresponding formula should be: (Input / -0.02573) + 47.045 = Output.   If someone can confirm my math it'd be great. Supposedly you can pick any two pairs of the data to make this formula.
×
×
  • Create New...