Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Cheers Chris - that was great you doing that.

I'm just trying to track down a stock setup. A guy in melbourne on these forums has the stock BOVs but not the piping...I'm wondering how hard that will be to get ...

Here you go, just took them for u now.

I have a POD filter on my car. Dont think it has any influence on the Blow off valve. The stock setup is just putting it on the stock pipe. Making sure the Plumb back pipe is connected and that the smaller pipe from the BOV to the Manifold is also connected. And it should be fine.

Seems like my car has the standard BOV still connected with all the hoses (doesn't appear to be tampered with)...plumbing back into just after the POD

How can this be. Do some people add a HKS while keeping the standard BOV there.

So I can just take the HKS BOV off?

Is the HKS doing most of the work?

Gee these are nice motors.

It would make sense using both bov's though as a means of utilising the designed in 'leak' of the standard bov for the purposes of keeping the idle working correctly for the standard ECU.

The point I'm not sure about is whether the standard bov would have been screwed really tight to stop the valve from opening.

Yeah it is Chris. Will get the digi out tommorrow and have a better look - but traced all plumbing from the standard BOV and there seems to be nothing disconnected ....

Wonder if this means I can just get that pipe that has the HKS on it and replace it..

Both can be connected. I got one friend with an R32 with a HKS one and a stock one connected. This is how it works for him. When he drives the car normally the stock BOV works normally and there isnt enough pressure to open the HKS one. When he full on floors it then the pressure is higher and then the HKS BOV vents the pressure. If everything is connected i dont see y it wouldnt work. look foward to the pics :(

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The roof is wrapped
    • This is how I last did this when I had a master cylinder fail and introduce air. Bleed before first stage, go oh shit through first stage, bleed at end of first stage, go oh shit through second stage, bleed at end of second stage, go oh shit through third stage, bleed at end of third stage, go oh shit through fourth stage, bleed at lunch, go oh shit through fifth stage, bleed at end of fifth stage, go oh shit through sixth stage....you get the idea. It did come good in the end. My Topdon scan tool can bleed the HY51 and V37, but it doesn't have a consult connector and I don't have an R34 to check that on. I think finding a tool in an Australian workshop other than Nissan that can bleed an R34 will be like rocking horse poo. No way will a generic ODB tool do it.
    • Hmm. Perhaps not the same engineers. The OE Nissan engineers did not forsee a future with spacers pushing the tie rod force application further away from the steering arm and creating that torque. The failures are happening since the advent of those things, and some 30 years after they designed the uprights. So latent casting deficiencies, 30+ yrs of wear and tear, + unexpected usage could quite easily = unforeseen failure. Meanwhile, the engineers who are designing the billet CNC or fabricated uprights are also designing, for the same parts makers, the correction tie rod ends. And they are designing and building these with motorsport (or, at the very least, the meth addled antics of drifters) in mind. So I would hope (in fact, I would expect) that their design work included the offset of that steering force. Doesn't mean that it is not totally valid to ask the question of them, before committing $$.
    • The downside of this is when you try to track the car, as soon as you hit ABS you get introduced to a unbled system. I want to avoid this. I do not want to bleed/flush/jack up the car twice just to bleed the f**kin car.
    • But again, the engineers said your cast aluminium would be fine based on the load that would be stretching that section. Same load stretching the bolts in a flex (not the twist), with a much smaller cross sectional area than the original part you've broken. It's why you'd need to be using higher strength bolts, but that's just making up for the strength you lose with less area...
×
×
  • Create New...