Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Same thing happened to me today when I went into the office... people coming up to me, "did you hear about the skyline accident"... I'm like yeah, I knew about it before I got to work. Just because I drive a skyline doesnt mean I give a shit. It's incidents like this that make owning an import even harder... careless moron fcukwits.

  • Replies 270
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

The death took Victoria's road toll to 271, 19 more than at the same time last year.

shows just how well bracksie's 3km/h tolerance is helping the motorists and not his back-pocket "supposedly"

Just because I drive a skyline doesnt mean I give a shit. It's incidents like this that make owning an import even harder... careless moron fcukwits.
I agree.
i think P platers should have better training b4 they can drive
There is a reason for the power-to-weight ratio law - which makes it illegal for P-platers to drive these type of cars. Worse still is they then modify them for even more power and expect to keep them on the road - without traction control or much actual driving experience.

In this instance I don't know for sure what happened but I have seen plenty of p-platers doing sideways driving on the street - its only a matter of time before they hit a pole, seen it too many times but not just skylines either!

Flame Suit On :)

Bloody idiots, yet another reason why 18-21 y.o's should be kept out of these cars!

I agree.

Similar thread here: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...d.php?p=1036728

No I agree mate, too many P platers in R33's etc. I mean if I can wait untill I'm 21 to drive a turbo so can everyone else in my opinion. I don't care what ANYONE says R33 Turbos are a handfull for drivers on P's and for all you P platers about to flame don't bother, We are older, We've been there and we know better :)

NismoR34 mate i kinda agree with you im on my P's and i do have a skyline... but i dont go round trying to make it drift i respect my car and it's power... it would be good to see the cops have tollerance for people who do the right thing, to just pull someone over for nothing and drill them i dont see fair... but i also find most of the time the people causing half the Drift and Drag problems are VL drivers....

i got my r33 when i was off my P's... i can tell u that after driving a front wheel drive corolla for 3 years before that the skyline was a huge handfull. regardless how careful u are its the once or twice a year u do something stupid is the time it stings ya.

*

*

*

www.carnetik.com

NismoR34 mate i kinda agree with you im on my P's and i do have a skyline... but i dont go round trying to make it drift i respect my car and it's power... it would be good to see the cops have tollerance for people who do the right thing, to just pull someone over for nothing and drill them i dont see fair... but i also find most of the time the people causing half the Drift and Drag problems are VL drivers....

Yes for some people, perhaps there should be tolerance but how do they workout the good drivers from the bad?

From the start of this year up until about July I was getting pulled over "randomly" at least once a month - police were generally nice to me but it was getting annoying.

The reasons I kept getting pulled over [police have told me these things]:

* the type of car i drive

* being on dandenong rd [i live just off it in malvern east so hard to avoid really]

* the reputation drivers of these cars have generated

* cars like this street racing

* etc

yea na mate i agree with you i have been driving since i was 16 on me l's and drove cars from me mums front wheel mazda to a rear wheel V6. When on me L's i admit in the V6 i was a lil stupid burnouts etc... but when i got my lancer which is gutless as .... i learnt to respect the and the road and it's rules never been booked for nothing... now that i have my skyline it's the same deal.. i dont drive the car because it's powerful i drive it because of my passion for cars... i just feel it should come down to a person by person situation not be judged on what everyone else does and how they drive... it's always the small group that wrecks it for everyone i say....

Its sad to see situations like this occuring, could it be too much power not enough experience?? I could also be the fact the guy had his mates in the car and he pushed it too hard!!! People should never drive out of their comfort zones!!!

In my opinon first car buyers should buy something else as a first car to get used to driving, then when purchasing a faster car as a second car you have general driving experience, although it is still alot different especially in adverse conditions. An advanced driving course would be a good idea!!!

take it easy

Mark

Bloody idiots, yet another reason why 18-21 y.o's should be kept out of these cars!

**cough**

ive had sky's for the past 3 years, since i was 18 :)

but then, i started with a stocker and drove that for a year

Fair enough it is hard to distinguish between good and bad drivers but to pull you over constantly is just ridicules. if you were speeding or what ever fine but to pull you over for no reason is my argument... sure it's hard they want to stop people doing stupid stuff but i believe only pull someone over for doing the wrong thing.... as the law apparently say you are innocent until proven guilty.. which should mean don’t pull someone over unless they are doing something wrong don’t assume they will do the wrong thing..

Marvic.

I understand your point, but......

How much is one life worth? Is it worth being pulled up every now and then? Is it worth your time? How would you feel if your brother or sister or mother or father or girlfriend was killed by a ****wit in a speeding car? What if it was P Plater ILLEGALLY driving a car which they shouldn't have been? How much blood would you want to extract from that person?

Then think that maybe, if that person was pulled over for no reason days before running your loved one over, he/she may have toned down their driving and not killed somebody.

I'm not getting up on my high horse or anything like that, but at the end of the day, you're driving a car illegally and similar car just killed somebody. If you were the cop who had to scrape some kids head off a pole, you'd probably pull people over too.

Also, you had to have known than when you bought the car that the Police would have an interest in you. You just gotta deal with it.

Sometimes we gotta look at things from a fact basis. Not emotionally.

BASS OTU

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
    • But first....while I was there, I also swapped across the centre console box for the other style where the AV inputs don't intrude into the (very limited !) space.  Part# was 96926-4GA0A, 284H3-4GA0B, 284H3-4GA0A. (I've already swapped the top 12v socket for a USB bulkhead in this pic, it fit the hole without modification:) Comparison of the 2: Basically to do the console you need to remove the DS and PS side console trim (they slide up and back, held in by clips only) Then remove the back half of the console top trim with the cupholders, pops up, all clips again but be careful at the front as it is pretty flimsy. Then slide the shifter boot down, remove the spring clip, loose it forever somewhere in the car the pull the shift knob off. Remove the tiny plastic piece on DS near "P" and use something thin and long (most screwdrivers won't fit) to push down the interlock and put the shifter down in D for space. There is one screw at the front, then the shifter surround and ashtray lift up. There are 3 or 4 plugs underneath and it is off. Next is the rear cover of the centre console; you need to open the console lid, pop off the trim covering the lid hinge and undo the 2rd screw from the driver's side (the rest all need to come out later so you can do them all now and remove the lid) Then the rear cover unclips (6 clips), start at the top with a trim tool pulling backwards. Once it is off there are 2 screws facing rearwards to remove (need a short phillips for these) and you are done with the rear of the console. There are 4 plugs at the A/V box to unclip Then there are 2 screws at the front of the console, and 2 clips (pull up and back) and the console will come out.
×
×
  • Create New...