Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 46
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

nevertheless ... its a fast car  :D

Oh absolutely, but as DB said it is not simply a big engine in an otherwise standard Supra. It has had considerable development and investment in both time and money. :D

hmmm ..somehow i dont think that run is qutie "true"

Yeh... I'm with you Butler! Definately a fake. A bit like those UFO sighting vids ha!

:jk:

SK.. for us less fortunate could you translate that in english :D

Either way, that's very impressive. But I guess like most things technical, we will never know the secrets to that car.

Hi guys,

I read an article on on Fast fours, the article came out may 2004, but this supra made 7.7 @ 176mph and they're expecting 7.2 pass. There are lot of supras making that time ljstt mentioned in the US (msp supra 8.3 @168mph no nos, Titan supra 8.7 @169 mph Street tyre, mvp unibody supra 8.8 @167mph).

Don't be thinking this car is some backyard throw together (like my cars), it's been racing for a few years. The US has a larger and more advanced drag racing market, Titan proved how much quicker you can go with an auto on their car (dropped .3 seconds(?) from mid 8's to low 8's).

The turbo is going to be the dictator with regards to horsepower, I think this car is meant to have one of the Turbonetics Thumper's on it (up to 2,000hp).

Check out the engine bay of the Titan car, notice the Wiggins clamps on the water + turbo lines ($US200+ each). That's a fair bit more "advanced" than Mario's car....

Damn that is a BiG F'Off turbo - look at the size of the exhaust housing - it's nearly bigger than the compressor housing - that is TOP END power !

BFGoodrich Comp T/A's are radial tyres - specially constructed and in this case, large creasable sidewall....

AWESOME tyres.....  IMHO, they shit on Nittos.

Adrian

fair enough. im not doubting the cars potential just that using radial tyres a pass so fast just doesnt seem possible at this point. considering it took the HKS supra which uses biggggg drag slicks to get as far as it has, it seems hard to believe to see a supra with radial tyres runnin almost as fast

The fastest "street" car on drag radials is a twin turbo'd 7 liter 89 Camaro.. on a 295 sized tyre it did 7.66 @ 186 MPH.

There's been alot of development on drag radials in the last few years, M+H have a new range out that is meant to be the same compound rubber as the drag slick. The lineup goes from Nitto (hardest), BFG, M/T then M+H (softest).

The MSP supra was on BF's since they sponsor the import series there, the Camaro was on M/T tyres..

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Good luck on the weekend mate
    • Must have been an absolute nightmare to drive when the power steer was out, the rack ratio/wheel size/caster is all set up for power assistance
    • Welcome to SAU, what are you looking at buying?
    • I checked the injectors again (1 and 2, since they’re easiest to access) to make sure they weren’t clogged. Even though the entire fuel system had been cleaned, I wanted to be certain. Everything looked clean, so I reinstalled and connected everything. When I started the car to confirm everything was okay, it immediately revved up high, so I shut it off straight away. I checked to see if I’d missed a vacuum hose or something, but everything was connected. On the second attempt, the car ran without the high idle, but I noticed a distinct “compressed air” sound coming from the engine bay. Tracing the sound, I pushed injector #6 forward slightly and the noise stopped — it turned out it wasn’t seated properly, despite the fuel rail being bolted down. While holding it in place, the car idled steadily without stalling and ran for over 5 minutes. At this point, I pulled all six injectors out just in case I hadn’t seated them correctly or dirt had gotten onto the O-rings. Unfortunately, I discovered that I had damaged 3 out of 6 injectors (the OEM 270cc ones) during installation. So yes, this was my fault. Since only the pintle caps were damaged, I’ve ordered a Fuel Injector Service Kit from NZEFI to refurbish them. In the meantime, I reinstalled my new injectors – the car now idles fine for over 15 minutes without stalling. I have not attempted to drive it so far. It’s not perfect yet, as it hesitates when the throttle is pressed, but it’s a big improvement. Unplugging the IACV with the new injectors idles at around 800rpm, even with the IACV screw tightened fully. But this is probably due to tune.
    • I wanted to try and preserve the front bumper as long as possible, they're not cheap and are made to order in Japan. Taking inspiration from my previous K11 Micra build where I made an undertray for the Impul bumper, I did the same for this BN Sports bumper but a little slimmed down.  This time round I only made a 'skid plate' (if that's the correct wording/term) for just the bumper surface area, the Micra version covered the gap like an undertray. Starting off with a sheet of mild steel approx. 0.9mm thick 4ft x 2ft in size. I traced around the bumper, cut it out and cleaned the edges. Luckily I was able to get two halves from one piece of metal In the video I installed it as is, but I've since then I've removed it to spray and add a rubber edging trim. The rubber trim is suitable for 1-2mm and it's a really nice tight fit. The bolts had to be loosened due to the plates being too tight against the bumper, the trim wouldn't push on I used some stainless M6 flat headed bolts for a flusher finish (rather than hex heads poking down), I believe this style fastener is used for furniture too incase you struggle to source some. The corner's are a little wider, but this may be an advantage incase I get close to bumping it  The front grill got some attention, finally getting round to repairing it. Upon removal one fixing pulled itself out of the plastic frame, one side is M8 that fixes inside of the frame, where as the other side is M5. Not knowing I could get replacements, I cut down an M8 bolt, threaded it inside the frame along with a decent amount of JB Weld.  The mesh was replaced to match the bumper. One hole on the bonnet/hood had to be drilled out to 8mm to accommodate the new stud, once the glue had set it could be refitted. I think the reason the grill was double meshed was to hide the horn/bonnet latch (which makes sense) but I much prefer it matching the bumper Bumper refitted and it's looking much better IMO The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bVZP35io9MA
×
×
  • Create New...