Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys, i got my suspension i ordered through nengun today, the TEIN type wagon. only problem was when i opened the box, there were only 3 shock absorbers, the 2 fronts and only 1 rear.

I think this is a funny sort of suspension kit, considering what i paid for it.

as soon as they send me the other shock absorber i'll let you guys know how it fits, for now here's a pic of the 3 i have.

Post up the measurements (wire ID, coil ID and the number of coils) and I will work out the spring rate for you:cheers:

Well Nengun say they sent the 4th shock in a previous package, but with the same EMS number. My post office said they haven't received another package with that number, so idon't know where it is. hopefully it'll show up somewhere, it has my name and address on it, that should help it find me.

So they sent a single shocky first by itself, then sent 3 more... LOL - wtf??

--------------------------------------

Posted this elsewhere but should probably go in the suspension thread for people looking only in here for supension options...

Here's an dam expensive choice at $3700 - but very noice being PentRoof Bilstein WGNC34 specific coil-overs :D

7934190001.jpg

order online from: http://www.ab-flug.co.jp/indexf.htm

(and shout me a set while you're at it)

So they sent a single shocky first by itself, then sent 3 more... LOL - wtf??

--------------------------------------

Posted this elsewhere but should probably go in the suspension thread for people looking only in here for supension options...

Here's an dam expensive choice at $3700 - but very noice being PentRoof Bilstein WGNC34 specific coil-overs :cheers:

7934190001.jpg  

order online from: http://www.ab-flug.co.jp/indexf.htm

(and shout me a  set while you're at it)

They won't fit a Stagea (non 260RS), they have forks at the bottom of the rear shocks, Stagea rear shocks have eyes at the bottom. They are GTR shocks I would say.:)

They won't fit a Stagea (non 260RS), they have forks at the bottom of the rear shocks, Stagea rear shocks have eyes at the bottom.   They are GTR shocks I would say.:)

Awww - dammit

Thanks SK... spoilsport

Do all the parts on my other thread look like 260RS only parts SK??

Cheers

They state 7/6 which is 7 kg / mm (390 lbs per inch) for the front and 6 kg / mm for the rear (335 lbs per inch).  As a comparison, the standard Stagea fronts are 165 lbs per inch, so that's a 137% increase in spring rate.  Usually for sporty road use I would be loooking for around 30% increase.  I think I'll leave it at that, you can make your own judgement from the numbers:cheers:

Call me stupid SK - but I cant get my head around this - didnt really think about it when you did this reply above, but...

If 7/6 is around a 137% increase and way too hard, and 30% increase is ideal ... arent the Tein S Tech springs ok, being 3.1 Front (172pounds/inch or 4% increase over stock) and 3.8 Rear (213pnds/inch or 25% over stock).

The Tein S Tech lowering springs would end up under the 30% max you recommended, with 25% increase at the rear, and pretty much same stiffness at front with only a 4% increase.... but you have said before the Tein spring are way too stiff.... am I still missing something in all this suspension mumbo jumbo??? :confused:

Cheers

Hello all (esp SK)

Time to replace the radius rod bushes on the stag. Do I go factory or

do I go whiteline ?? if they have them

And while I'm at it, should I get a more "adjustable" setup in the radius

rod setup ??

Any hints clues would be appreciated

cheers all, and thanks, this is a great forum !!

Call me stupid SK - but I cant get my head around this - didnt really think about it when you did this reply above, but...

If 7/6 is around a 137% increase and way too hard, and 30% increase is ideal ... arent the Tein S Tech springs ok, being 3.1 Front (172pounds/inch or 4% increase over stock) and 3.8 Rear (213pnds/inch or 25% over stock).

The Tein S Tech lowering springs would end up under the 30% max you recommended, with 25% increase at the rear, and pretty much same stiffness at front with only a 4% increase.... but you have said before the Tein spring are way too stiff.... am I still missing something in all this suspension mumbo jumbo???   :confused:  

Cheers

Nope, you got it right, if the Tein S Tech are truly 3.1/3.8. Maybe they started to listen to the rest of the world. Then it's down to what shock valving rates they are using.

Hello all (esp SK)

Time to replace the radius rod bushes on the stag. Do I go factory or

do I go whiteline ?? if they have them  

And while I'm at it, should I get a more "adjustable" setup in the radius

rod setup ??

Any hints clues would be appreciated  

cheers all, and thanks, this is a great forum !!

Stageas (like GTR's) need more caster real bad, so I would always go for the adjustable Whiteline replacement bushes. Being 4wd, we can't get as much caster on them as GTST's, but every little bit helps.

:)

  • 2 weeks later...

Looking for some input guys (esp SK).

Getting the radius rods replaced (bushes are shot) on Wed, and the guy said I can have the adjustable versions if I want. Is this a better option than the whiteline bushes (both will give caster adjustment ??). Or do I completely misunderstand

the Stagea front suspension ?

thanks and cheers

Looking for some input guys (esp SK).  

Getting the radius rods replaced (bushes are shot) on Wed, and the guy said I can have the adjustable versions if I want.  Is this a better option than the whiteline bushes (both will give caster adjustment ??). Or do I completely misunderstand

the Stagea front suspension ?

thanks and cheers

Previous post on this subject......

In order to increase the caster you simply pull the front wheels forward in the guards. Not enough to rub though. This changes the front steering toe angles and therefore you need to re-align it after fitting and adjusting the caster.

If the caster rods you are looking at have spherical joints at the front (not polyurethane or rubber) then you will notice a slight increase in NVH as there is no dampening. Sphericals also wear rapidly on Australian (rough) roads, and they then knock noticeably.

Since they don't have as much "play" as a polyurethane bush they do provide more constant caster settings (less flex) but that comes at the price as above ie; as usual, you don't get something for nothing.

---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

As you can tell, I am not a fan of sphericals in a road car, they wear out very fast in that environment, knock like a bustard and cost as much as a new arm to replace. Plus they add quite a bit to the NVH (noise, vibration & harshness) even when new. Consequently I would always recommend an adjustable polyurethane bush.

:rofl:

Previous post on this subject......

As you can tell, I am not a fan of sphericals in a road car, they wear out very fast in that environment, knock like a bustard and cost as much as a new arm to replace. Plus they add quite a bit to the NVH (noise, vibration & harshness) even when new. Consequently I would always recommend an adjustable polyurethane bush.

:(

SK, your'e a legend, thanks heaps for the info.

Just to let people know, i'm getting my TEIN Type wagon coil overs and whiteline sway bars installed tomorrow, i'll get some pics up once i get her home. i don't have time or tools to do it myself, which is a bummer because this thread is super helpful.

anywho, just letting people know if they're interested

Cool, it'll be good to see how it goes. Once done you'll be able to out handle most cars :D

I've been tempted to get a set of sway bars, but I know if i get them then I'll want new suspension and then do the camber and next thing i know I'll get a loan and do a rb26 and 5 speed converstion.. lol

Well got my car back from Inline. he says the springs have to settle before he can lower it at all, but the sway bars are in and work absolutely awesome. the car takes corners like it wasn't even trying, and there's barely any body roll. all in all a good investment in my opinion.

The Bilsteins go in this weekend, so I measured the centre of wheel to guard heights as it is now;

RHS Front 395mm

RHS Rear 370 mm

LHS Front 395mm

LHS Rear 372 mm

I am thinking of around 360 rear and 370 front, so I will have to machine some extra circlip grooves.  Maybe 6  at  5mm intervals.

Need some feedback from the guys that have already lowered theirs, please post up your centre of wheel to guard heights...........:cheers:

SK,

I realise this is an old post but have just measured the S2, and the figures are:

RHF 360mm,

LHF 360mm,

RHR 365mm, and

LHR 372mm.

However I have a weeping shock on LHR so may be this is having an impact on height.

The vehicle has NISMO springs but have no idea as to what the specs are.

Marc2

SK,

I realise this is an old post but have just measured the S2, and the figures are:

RHF 360mm,

LHF 360mm,

RHR 365mm, and

LHR 372mm.

However I have a weeping shock on LHR so may be this is having an impact on height.

The vehicle has NISMO springs but have no idea as to what the specs are.

Marc2

Thanks Marc, looks like the usual 30 mm lowering on the front, but with standard height rear. I did similar with ours, it takes away that nose up look they have when the rear springs settle due to load carrying. The diff right/left rear is usually because they spend a lot of their life with just the driver in the car. If you are changing shocks it may pay to check the free height of the springs and maybe swap left to right.:cheers:

PS; send me the spring specs and I can rate them if you like, using the computer spring rate simulator, it is very accurate. I would need the wire diameter, coil ID and number of coils.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You just need to remove the compressor housing, not the entire turbo. I would not be drilling and tapping anything with the housing still on anyways. 
    • So, I put my boat on a boat. First of all, I'm going to come out and say it. Why is Tasmania not considered a holy goal, an apex that all road-legal modified cars go to, to experience? This place is an absolute wonderland of titanic proportions. If people are already getting club runs for once in a lifetime 30 person cruises to Tassy then I've never seemed to see it. It is like someone replaced the entire place with an idyllic wonderland for cars, and all of the people living there with paid actors who are kind, humble, and friendly. Dear god. After doing a lap of almost all of the place I've found that it's a great way to find out all of the little things that the car isn't doing quite right and a great way to figure it all out. All in all, I drove for 4 hours a day for a week and nothing broke. I didn't even need to open the engine bay. This is by all means a great success, but it has left me with a list of things to potentially address. I also now have a 3D printed wheel fitment tool which annoyingly hasn't got any threads in it to actually assemble it. I might be able to tape it together to check the sizing I actually want to use, but it'll likely involving pulling the shocks out to properly measure travel at least at the front, and probably raise the car while I'm at it, at least in the rear. I scraped on quite a few things and I'm not sure how else to go about it. I was taking anything with a bump at what felt like 89 degree angles. And address those 10 other tasks. And wash the car. God damn it is dirty. And somehow, the weather was perfect the entire time - And because I was on the top of Mt Wellington it turns out it was very much about to freeze up there. I did something I typically never do and took some photos up there in what must have been -10 and the foggy felt like suspended ice, rather than mere fog. If you own a car in Australia, you owe it to yourself to do it.
    • Damn that was hilarious, and a bit embarrassing for skylines in general 😂 vintage car life ey. That R33 really stomped. Pretty entertaining stuff
    • Hi, I have a r32 gtr transmission. Does any of you guys have an idea how much power it will hold with the billet center plate and stock gearset? At what power level and use did yours brake with or without billet plate? Thanks, Oystein Lovik
    • Saw this replica police car based on a Mitsubishi Starion XX parked next to a 'police box' (it's literally a box) in Hirohata, Himeji City in Hyogo prefecture the other day. It's owned by Morii-san who is a local Mitsubishi Starion enthusiast. According to a local radio station blog post, he always wanted to make a police car himself based on ones he saw in his favourite Manga comics.  As it's illegal to modify a car to look like a police car and drive on the road, Morii-san tried many times to get permission from Aboshi police station headquarters nearby. They refused initially by after they got tired of that they granted him permission. However, the car can only be displayed on private property and obviously can't be registered as long as the police livery is present. The car was completed at a cost of 1.5 million yen (US$ 10,000) in addition to the car cost. A location was chosen outside Hirohata Police box where the car can easily been seen from the street. Morii-san has two other Starion road cars, both widebody GSR-VRs.
×
×
  • Create New...