Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Got a quick query; are the Whiteline springs with the group buy kit (both front and rear) a better buy than say Tein S. Tech Lowering Springs to suit the WGC34? Can anyone comment on this please?

Also, how would the Whiteline front camber set compare to the Tein front Fixed camber kit?

Lastly, can anyone confirm whether R34 / 34 GTR rear shocks only will fit in the rear of a Stagea?

Cheers for your thoughts...Brendan

I don't think i will. He's supposedly got a really good reputation, it'd be a shame to put a black mark on his record. i'm going to take the car back for an unrelated problem anyway, and i'll mention it to him so he knows to look out for it in future

Got a quick query;

1. are the Whiteline springs with the group buy kit (both front and rear) a better buy than say Tein S. Tech Lowering Springs to suit the WGC34? Can anyone comment on this please?

2. Also, how would the Whiteline front camber set compare to the Tein front Fixed camber kit?

3. Lastly, can anyone confirm whether R34 / 34 GTR rear shocks only will fit in the rear of a Stagea?

Cheers for your thoughts...Brendan

Hi Brendan. suggestions to your questions follow;

1. Yes, Tein are well know for having rediculously high spring rates, like most Jap suspension. The shocks have simplistic valving and are also very harshly valved.

2. The Whiteline polyurethane bushes are adjustable, and have sufficient compiance so as not to cause excessive NVH or cracking at the location points.

3. Nopwe, GTR's have forks on the bottom of their rear shocks, Stageas (except 260RS's of course) have bushes, like GTST's.

Check out the Group Buy for more details

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=85592

Hope that answered your questions

:) cheers :)

I have TEIN coilovers, but as stated, i haven't had a good run with suspension until now. what i have noticed is they're very very stiff, but when i have full load i don't notice the car bogging down much more than when it's empty.

probably means they're a good spring for heavy cars. they work well for me, as i do carry around a bit of stuff half the time.

Thanks fella's. I had read about your problems Termianl, thats why I was after an opinion for tein vs Whiteline. I dont do a whole load of carrying, so Whiteline will be the go for springs.

Regarding the rear shockers - I bought a full set of KYB shocks and Tanabe springs, for a R33/34 GTR. The fronts are forks whilst the rears have bushes...... wasnt sure they'd fit that was all.

Ive now been pretty much assured that they will, just got to put the correct springs on. Plus the camber, plus castor, plus swaybars, etc etc. :angry:

Never ends!

Cheers - Brendan

well i took my car for a drive thismorning and it's still pulling violently to the left. maybe the toe in was a symptom of another problem somewhere else. this is starting to really sh!t me off as the original guy who put my suspension in has a really good reputation for working on expensive and high performance cars.

god damn......was it that way B4 the installation?

might have to retrace the installation?

doesnt it shite you / stress you out when there is a major problem like that going on, and it seems out of your control?

good luck Mr-T.

Well thanks to Marc2 spending some time on my car one day, i've now found the reason my car pulls to the left. i know rear camber is factory at -2 degrees. when i got my whiteline bars installed, i had a camber kit installed which can reduce this amount to -0.5 degrees. what has been found is that my RL cambre is -2.28 degrees, and RR is

-1.43 degrees.

To add insult to injury the front camber is also way out, with FL -0.36, FR -1.15 degrees.

Anyone have any theories how my camber can be so wacked out even with camber kits installed to create MORE camber than facotry?

Also, none of these can be adjusted any better, they're at the full capacity of the kit

Well thanks to Marc2 spending some time on my car one day, i've now found the reason my car pulls to the left. i know rear camber is factory at -2 degrees. when i got my whiteline bars installed, i had a camber kit installed which can reduce this amount to -0.5 degrees. what has been found is that my RL cambre is -2.28 degrees, and RR is

-1.43 degrees.

To add insult to injury the front camber is also way out, with FL -0.36, FR -1.15 degrees.

Anyone have any theories how my camber can be so wacked out even with camber kits installed to create MORE camber than facotry?

Also, none of these can be adjusted any better, they're at the full capacity of the kit

Very interesting, need a bit more information.

What are the centre of wheel to guard measurements?

I have played around extensively with our Stagea and this is what is needed for each height increment;

Standard (100,000 k's) height is 385/375 mm front/rear

360/350 mm needs only the standard rear camber adjusters

350/340 mm needs 1 front camber kit and 1 rear camber kit

340/330 mm needs I front camber kit and 2 rear camber kits

That is to get the front to 1.0 to 1.5 degrees negative and the rear 0.5 to 1.0 degrees negative. The 0.5 degrees tolerance is because every car is different.

:rolleyes: Cheers :P

  • 3 weeks later...

Are the stock springs on stagea's generally Dark Blue/Blue??

Have a little bit of a look round mine yesterday whilst doing the stereo install, and noticed my springs are dark blue. Generally l thought nissan only used black springs

Sooooo ..... any idea's on what they are?

Will have to measure your car against mine alex when l come round ... might try and come round before l put the new wheels on (as in keep the stockies on), as l somehow think 19's might throw the height out a bit!! :) :lol:

Edited by [ STAGEN ]
Sooooo ..... any idea's on what they are?

Will have to measure your car against mine alex when l come round ... might try and come round before l put the new wheels on (as in keep the stockies on), as l somehow think 19's might throw the height out a bit!!  :)  :lol:

Nope, the centre of wheel to guard measuremtns are the same regardless of what diameter wheels are used. That's why we use that as the reference measurement in all cases.

:D cheers :D

,22 Nov 2005, 04:13 PM]Just wanting to confirm, the part no's for the whiteline springs are:

Front springs -- 83139 (23139)

Rear Springs -- 70191 (20191)

Nope, fronts are supposed to be 83159, rears are corect at 70191. I am working through fixing all the listings at the moment.

If you have 83139 please PM me and I will arrange for a swap.

:rolleyes: cheers :D

Edited by Sydneykid
  • 2 weeks later...

got a question for anyone out there

i get a kind of tinking sound coming from the rear of the car when ever i accelerate, if i just tap the accelerator it makes this sound every time

kind of like something engaging

does anyone know what this might be?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
    • For race cars, this is one part where I find having the roll cage bar having gone through a hole in the floor better than the build it up on a ledge inside... The Merc I help on, the main hoop ends are marked on the car, and the jack is marked... Jack goes under a few inches and lifts one whole side of the car up... Removes that fight for long slim jacks for race car duties!   My biggest issue for the daily drivers I work on, is my jacks don't go high enough. The jacks start out on a few blocks, jack it up, then start a second jack under it on more blocks, and then I can get an axle stand under it. My axle stands are presently in use, and are nearly fully extended. The car is sitting with barely more than a cm of clearance to get the wheel off the studs! Sarah's Kluger is the same, as it has an ungodly amount of droop available in the suspension and a distinct lack of good jacking points!
    • Happy? Yep, my to do list is getting shorter and shorter. Either this light approaching is the end of the tunnel, or I'm about to be hit by a train... Ha ha ha   Also, Duncan isn't that far out of town that you need to make a multi day drive out of it. 😛
    • Sorry I meant that we are building the EH for a client.
    • LOL, when one "money pit" is never enough Noice, and excellent work mate
×
×
  • Create New...