Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Next week i'm getting GTR camber arms fitted to fix my rear camber. meaning i can have a low car and not have any camber. will show before and after results for interested parties

hey mate is that the main top arms that have a big O shape for the shock to go through? cause they dont fit as the shock hits em, as i tried putting the ones from a gtr rear cradle, so i used the stock stagea ones again which are just a str8 piece with a few curves on it.

They don't have an O-shape, they're curved however to go around the shock.

The rear of the stagea is setup the same as an R33 GTR correct? well i saw them installed on an R33 GTR so i guessed they'd work.

anywho, my mech will be fitting them, if there was going to be a problem he wouldn't be suggesting them to me (he's been under my car enough times to know the setup, he put my coilovers and whiteline bars in)

post-4352-1143663236.jpg

heres a pic of a 32 gtr one, not sure what the 33's r like, but i know for sure the width of the cradle compared to the gtr and the length of axles r different to gtr's, and shocks r on a different angle all together. that arm looks exactly the same as the stock stagea ones anyway so should be fine, unless they are made with the same bends to clear the shock as a gtr and then it wont fit. only one way to find out :D

sorry the pic is soo big..

111_1197.jpg

They don't have an O-shape, they're curved however to go around the shock.

The rear of the stagea is setup the same as an R33 GTR correct? well i saw them installed on an R33 GTR so i guessed they'd work.

anywho, my mech will be fitting them, if there was going to be a problem he wouldn't be suggesting them to me (he's been under my car enough times to know the setup, he put my coilovers and whiteline bars in)

Are you really going to run spherical bearings on the rear of a Stagea?

Ask you mechanic about NVH? Sphericals are damn noisy, particularly with a big rear sound box of a waggon.

Ask you mechanic about subframe cracking? Spericals have no give, hit a bump and it is 100% transmitted to the subframe.

Ask your mechanic about wear? Spherical bearings NEED maintenance, they get dirt, grit, sand and mud in them and they wear out FAST. They have to be cleaned regularly, then greased.

Ask your mechanic about replacement sphericals? When they wear out (which won't be long) they will need replacing, make sure you don't have to buy complete arms. Many suppliers use unique spherical which you can not buy as spare parts.

There is a thread in the supension section if you want more details.

:D cheers :P

Sorry, these aren't the ones i'm using, they were just an example.

he told me he's using good quality ones, not crappy ones that clunk etc. i can get the exact details off him, but i'm not a suspension mechanic so i won't pretend to know much about what he's doing. he just said it will fix the camber and make it very highly adjustable in the rear end for future reference (in case i make the worlds first drift stagea or something)

As i said, not suspension mechanic.

he's going to sort it out, he knows what he's doing. he's been under my car a fair few times

LOL, I hear ya! Best of luck with it mate, seeing youve had the 'trouble' for a fair while, I hope you can have it all sorted and ironed out. She'll be right....... :rolleyes:

Doing my stuff this Monday at home with a fella (for a small fee), hopefully just by adding the Bilstein shocks at standard height (maybe just one groove down at front) with stnd springs, wont have a camber issue, or tyre wear etc.

Cant wait to test it all out afterwards!!!! Had my power button on today, and with 160awkw she really cranks in the lower gears, so with the suspn & wheels/tyres freshly sorted me thinks a good Hills run is in order. :D

hey sydneykid, just a couple of questions, now that im actually able to drive my car for the first time with the new suspension, its really really stiff, and ive got both front and rear on the highest circlip possible, which is 350mm front, 360mm rear. how tight does the main top nut on the shocks have to be? ive got like 40mm of threads hanging out the top of the nut. can u adjust the stiffness at all?

it handles awesome and sooo responsive when steering around bends, just i cant rev it past 4k so i cant give it heaps just yet. :P

the new suspension, its really really stiff - it handles awesome and sooo responsive when steering around bends

Yeah, I find my shocks (stnd springs) are stiff when driving at 60kmph (potholes, bumps etc), but at 80 it is very nice, and at 100 it is schweet-as! Overall a top suspn package, and totally worth the $$$$

Well turns out while i was getting my camber and other thing sorted my worst fears were realised. all of my wheel bearings are shagged and also my CV boots have gone. my steering rack is moving in the joint and my lower ball joints on both sides of the front end are moving around. looks like suspension overhaul time for me. i have done 160,000km on the car, and not much of that was easy city driving, so i guess i should have expected it.

  • 1 month later...

hiya all i was jus wondering without looking through the whole thread page by page, are series 1+2 the same for sway bars? as i have the shock side of things sorted (adjustable koni) but feels a bit boatish in heavy cornering! also are the camber arms the same? as i would like to get some adjustable ones for the rear at some stage.

  • 2 weeks later...
hiya all i was jus wondering without looking through the whole thread page by page, are series 1+2 the same for sway bars? as i have the shock side of things sorted (adjustable koni) but feels a bit boatish in heavy cornering! also are the camber arms the same? as i would like to get some adjustable ones for the rear at some stage.

Stabilisr bars are the same on S and S2.

They are $219 each for adjustable on the Group Buy and $194 each for fixed rate bars.

Stabiliser bars are the best bang for buch handling upgrade you can make.

:thumbsup: cheers :(

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Apologies for the long post, but needed somewhere to lay out the entire timeline of events and actions taken:   I've got an 89 GTR with a R34 RB in it. It's been running great all year, driven probably 500KM in the last month. It's not my daily driver, just a weekend fun car.    Build info: R34 RB26 - HKS 2.7 stroker kit, HKS adjustable cam gears, HKS turbo upgrades, Trust intercooler, R34 factory DENSO 440cc injectors, JUN chipped/tuned R32 ECU. All of this work was performed in Japan back in 2019.    Thursday 10/2/25 - It's a nice day and decided I'll drive it to work, I start it up in the garage and I notice it took a few extra cranks and sounded a bit funny. I figure maybe it was just because it was a pretty chilly morning. I pull it out into the driveway to warm up a bit before leaving. As I leave the driveway, it feels very off and sounds like a misfire. I pull it back in the garage to deal with after work and take the daily to work. I was able to diagnose it as a cylinder 5 misfire with the old spark plug test (unplugging each plug until a sound change with the engine running). I take off the whole ignition system, ignitor, plugs, spark. *Important note, it is still on the R32 ignition system with the separate ignitor system. I test each system with a multi-meter and nothing presents as a smoking gun. I put it all back together and it starts up no issue. I go ahead and order the PRP R35 ignition conversion kit. It should arrive today (10/13/25)   Friday 10/3/25 - Another nice day, car starts up great and drives great all day. Very pleased that everything seems to be OK   Sunday 10/5/25 - Decided I'll take it to play some golf, load up and drive to the course about 25 minutes away. Drives wonderful the whole way there, I pull in the parking lot and the engine completely comes to a stop. I do not recall if it sputtered at all, but just remember all of the sudden the engine was off. I roll it into a parking spot, try to crank it back on and nothing.  It'll crank and crank and not even try to start. End up getting it towed back to my house and push it up into the garage.    Items I have checked: Fuel in the tank Fuel Pump relay Fuel pump fuse  Spark Plugs & gap Coil packs Ignitor    I know the cylinders are getting fuel as the plugs smell like fuel after a start attempt. I tried spraying starter fluid into the manifold and cranking and not even a sputter.    I decided to do the live CAS test (removing the the CAS, ignition on and spinning the CAS stalk to see if the injectors pulse and spark is active). All of the injectors were pulsing and I have spark at the plug. The half-moon end of the CAS did seem very loose, I'm not sure how much play is supposed to be there, but it was more than I expected. There was no in/out play of the shaft, just the tip end that is pinned on had quite a bit of play.    CAS Play video   When I put the CAS back in, I stupidly did not re-time the engine. I know I need to do that tonight, however, I do not think it will start given it seemingly was not the issue. My plan is to do the PRP R35 coil kit and retime the engine at the same time.    I plan on ordering the Haltech Nexus Plug-in ECU once they are available again, but ideally would like to get this sorted before firing the parts cannon at it and potentially adding more variables.    Anything glaring that I am missing here, I'm a bit at a loss?          
    • Get it on a dyno. Get something logging Consult. Run it up and find out what is causing it.
    • Looking for a plenum for rb25 de+t neo  Not looking to push much power maybe 300kw at the wheels, is there much difference in flow for Freddy “Greddy style” compared to original Greddy or options like Proflow or Otaku garage?    I won’t be porting the de Neo head for now as I think it’ll be fine 280-300rwkw but appreciate the help and any experiences anyone has between them and any advice. Thanks  Looking at this plenum for now below 
    • engine wise almost no mods: stock ecu Greddy front mount intercooler Greddy forward facing intake w R33 TB stock fuel system, stock injectors, rail etc. Kakimoto racing hyper 3 inch exhaust system Apexi intake filter New NGK –R BCPRES (.8 gap) plugs  
    • Nice one @Pac - looks like a fair few 1600's there! 
×
×
  • Create New...