Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Its not as short as the s14 by the company im getting.

this stagea will be lower than any one on this board, and mnost skylines. it takes extremes and enginuity to do it

A 3.25" exhaust will touch the ground under the rear subframe before you need shorter rear shocks.

If you use a shorter shock, how are you going to get around the lower spring seat clearance to tyre problem?

:D cheers :D

because he can i spose...

solve your problems all at once...remove the shocks all together :D You'll have about as much manouvreability and it's half the cost :D

Why not just get larger side skirts if you want it to look lower...the lowering you are doing now can't be helping the handling much at all past a point

jesus, no wonder people talk crap about aussie style (not me)

I can build stupidly radical cars and daily drive them

I need shorter FRONT SHOCKs not rear

and i dont need to worry about my wheel to shock clearance, because with a breath of intelligence, Im going to run more htan a 18x8 +30 offset.

try a 19x9 +20 offset.

no need for inner clearance worry.

honestly guys, not to be mean, i havent seen one stagea on here even trying what i am doing, just a bunch of people sayign things are unsafe, and stuff.

I know what is safe, i know whtas not.

With 19s, i will have to go lower to look as low as i want. becuase i have almost an inch and a half more of wheel and rubber combined from a 17inch setup like i have now.

and hte exhaust im fabricating wont even hang below the frame rail. even at 3.5 inches

Yall are trying to tell me things like i have no clue what im talking about lol

Edited by yokotas13

:domokun::rant:

jesus, no wonder people talk crap about aussie style (not me)

I can build stupidly radical cars and daily drive them

I need shorter FRONT SHOCKs not rear

and i dont need to worry about my wheel to shock clearance, because with a breath of intelligence, Im going to run more htan a 18x8 +30 offset.

try a 19x9 +20 offset.

no need for inner clearance worry.

honestly guys, not to be mean, i havent seen one stagea on here even trying what i am doing, just a bunch of people sayign things are unsafe, and stuff.

I know what is safe, i know whtas not.

With 19s, i will have to go lower to look as low as i want. becuase i have almost an inch and a half more of wheel and rubber combined from a 17inch setup like i have now.

and hte exhaust im fabricating wont even hang below the frame rail. even at 3.5 inches

Yall are trying to tell me things like i have no clue what im talking about lol

go for it dude, interested in the outcome

jesus, no wonder people talk crap about aussie style (not me)

I can build stupidly radical cars and daily drive them

I need shorter FRONT SHOCKs not rear

and i dont need to worry about my wheel to shock clearance, because with a breath of intelligence, Im going to run more htan a 18x8 +30 offset.

try a 19x9 +20 offset.

no need for inner clearance worry.

honestly guys, not to be mean, i havent seen one stagea on here even trying what i am doing, just a bunch of people sayign things are unsafe, and stuff.

I know what is safe, i know whtas not.

With 19s, i will have to go lower to look as low as i want. becuase i have almost an inch and a half more of wheel and rubber combined from a 17inch setup like i have now.

and hte exhaust im fabricating wont even hang below the frame rail. even at 3.5 inches

Yall are trying to tell me things like i have no clue what im talking about lol

dont be offended by the comments, ive been to japan and ive seen first hand just how radical the sorts of modifications that are made to cars, however in australia we have a legal clearance limit of 100mm, and police that are very swift and firm when it comes to defecting our cars off the road.

Maybe they DO have a clue!

And you do realise that this is SkylinesAUSTRALIA, so like it was mentioned, we have rules and regulations that we have to abide by, and the police generally aren't too keen on modified cars, especially so if it's an import you're driving... Not to mention the crappy roads that most of us are subjected to here, so we have to make a compromise between drivability and performance.

I'm lucky in the sense that my car is still standard, who knows if I'll start attracting negative cop action when I have the suspension sorted and some nice wheels on it.

i understand that.

So if you havent done the stuff i am doing, then you have no firsthand experience on if it is safe, if it will work, or how to do it.

SO its all hearsay and i read it in a magazine or X person told me this.

Im telling you first hand, it will work, and be safe, and with the arms i have/getting the suspension geometry will still be there, and i will still have adequate suspension travel for the track.

suspension is one thing i can actually do right

jesus, no wonder people talk crap about aussie style (not me)

I can build stupidly radical cars and daily drive them

1. I need shorter FRONT SHOCKs not rear

2. and i dont need to worry about my wheel to shock clearance, because with a breath of intelligence, Im going to run more htan a 18x8 +30 offset.

try a 19x9 +20 offset.

no need for inner clearance worry.

honestly guys, not to be mean, i havent seen one stagea on here even trying what i am doing, just a bunch of people sayign things are unsafe, and stuff.

I know what is safe, i know whtas not.

3. With 19s, i will have to go lower to look as low as i want. becuase i have almost an inch and a half more of wheel and rubber combined from a 17inch setup like i have now.

4. and hte exhaust im fabricating wont even hang below the frame rail. even at 3.5 inches

Yall are trying to tell me things like i have no clue what im talking about lol

Sounds like an interesting project, I would like some more information if that's OK;

1. Didn't you say you were using S14 rear shocks because they were shorter?

2. Are you are going to flare the guards? I didn't think that 9 x 20 mm offset would clear the standard guards?

3. Are you running a lower rolling diameter tyre? Rim diameter is IRRELEVANT, most people run the same (or similar) overall wheel/tyre diameter to avoid excessive speedo error, what are you doing to correct that?

4. Are you going to cut a hole in the rear subframe? Whereabouts?

5. What are you doing with the exhaust system where it goes under the LHS rear drive shaft?

6. What are you doing about the excessive drive shaft angles? Front and rear?

7. What are you doing about dynamic camber change? Front and Rear?

8. What are you doing about bump steer? Front and rear?

:P cheers :P

Sounds like an interesting project, I would like some more information if that's OK;

1. Didn't you say you were using S14 rear shocks because they were shorter?

2. Are you are going to flare the guards? I didn't think that 9 x 20 mm offset would clear the standard guards?

3. Are you running a lower rolling diameter tyre? Rim diameter is IRRELEVANT, most people run the same (or similar) overall wheel/tyre diameter to avoid excessive speedo error, what are you doing to correct that?

4. Are you going to cut a hole in the rear subframe? Whereabouts?

5. What are you doing with the exhaust system where it goes under the LHS rear drive shaft?

6. What are you doing about the excessive drive shaft angles? Front and rear?

7. What are you doing about dynamic camber change? Front and Rear?

8. What are you doing about bump steer? Front and rear?

:happy: cheers :laugh:

1. Not the actual OEM shock, the coilover shock they use for the s14 rear, is shorter than the GTR front. so it allows me more vertical adjustment. it wil be revalved to match the spring rate i decide on.

2. Yes, i have a fender roller on teh way. I have to roll the lip on all 4, and i will be pulling the front about 10-15mm and the rear only 5-10 due to the rear door to fender space there will be a 10 +20mm on the rear

3. Nope, not worried about the 1.y6u843968493207689342% speedo deflection. up to 10km over is acceptable in japan. not a huge deal. I have a second set of wheels (the stock 17s) for Inspection purposes

4. why would i need to? havent seen a problem yet

5.I am going to redo the exhaust when needed (once i order the new one though). maybe run a dual pipe so i can run two smaller ones in that area where it dips. havent exactly decided on what i want to do

6. There is enough play without binding for driveshafts. they have an extreme amount of angle they can take relative to what im doing without binding.

7.I already have rear camber arms, fronts are on the way

8. Tension rods moving the wheels forward should eliminate most of it.

Sydneykid is like a cat playing with a mouse

if he can get me a suspension system that will do what i want it to do. ill be more than happy to oblidge

but for now, im doing what i have to , to get the look i want.

not saying it wil perform well at that height, but i want it that low

1. Not the actual OEM shock, the coilover shock they use for the s14 rear, is shorter than the GTR front. so it allows me more vertical adjustment. it wil be revalved to match the spring rate i decide on.

2. Yes, i have a fender roller on teh way. I have to roll the lip on all 4, and i will be pulling the front about 10-15mm and the rear only 5-10 due to the rear door to fender space there will be a 10 +20mm on the rear

3. Nope, not worried about the 1.y6u843968493207689342% speedo deflection. up to 10km over is acceptable in japan. not a huge deal. I have a second set of wheels (the stock 17s) for Inspection purposes

4. why would i need to? havent seen a problem yet

5.I am going to redo the exhaust when needed (once i order the new one though). maybe run a dual pipe so i can run two smaller ones in that area where it dips. havent exactly decided on what i want to do

6. There is enough play without binding for driveshafts. they have an extreme amount of angle they can take relative to what im doing without binding.

7.I already have rear camber arms, fronts are on the way

8. Tension rods moving the wheels forward should eliminate most of it.

Thanks for the response, I have a few suggestions/comments;

1. So you are going to use an S14 rear shock on the front of a Stagea? What are you doing about the shock valving requirements OTHER than spring rate? Stabiliser bar rate, unsprung weight, leverage and movement rates, travel limitations etc

2. I thought that would be necessary

3. Why not buy the right diameter tyres? Surely that is more logical

4. You will

5. Yep, you could do that

6. What about the horsepower loss due to missaligned CV's? Plus the greatly accelerated wear?

7. They will fix the static camber, what are you doing about the dynamic camber change?

8. No it won't, you will need to correct the geometry of the steering arms to align with the lower control arms.

There are no off the shelf solutions I have seen for #1, #4, #6. #7 and #8, you will either have to design and make them yourself or have someone who knows about suspension geometry make them for you. Metal fabrication skills, suspension geometry simulation software, welding skills, a good understanding of shock absorber hydraulic engineering etc, will all be necessary.

As I said, it's an interesting project, I just hope that you have a full understanding of the hurdles you are facing and the budget that will be required to overcome those hurdles.

:( cheers :laugh:

Thanks for the response, I have a few suggestions/comments;

1. So you are going to use an S14 rear shock on the front of a Stagea? What are you doing about the shock valving requirements OTHER than spring rate? Stabiliser bar rate, unsprung weight, leverage and movement rates, travel limitations etc

2. I thought that would be necessary

3. Why not buy the right diameter tyres? Surely that is more logical

4. You will

5. Yep, you could do that

6. What about the horsepower loss due to missaligned CV's? Plus the greatly accelerated wear?

7. They will fix the static camber, what are you doing about the dynamic camber change?

8. No it won't, you will need to correct the geometry of the steering arms to align with the lower control arms.

There are no off the shelf solutions I have seen for #1, #4, #6. #7 and #8, you will either have to design and make them yourself or have someone who knows about suspension geometry make them for you. Metal fabrication skills, suspension geometry simulation software, welding skills, a good understanding of shock absorber hydraulic engineering etc, will all be necessary.

As I said, it's an interesting project, I just hope that you have a full understanding of the hurdles you are facing and the budget that will be required to overcome those hurdles.

:) cheers :)

1. as i already stated they would be revalved. But im looking into a few other options. a local coilover company has a stagea application with an optional 30mm shorter shock. so it might solve my problems

3.you cant get at the heights i want for show with correct diamete tires. however at the track i will be running 17x9 +30 all around with i believe (dont quote me i still haev to make sure its the right size) 255/45 Advan Reo1rs.

6.gt25 or 27 will have plenty of help with that this summer. and on the wear, ill just get some extras. they are like 20 bucks a piece.

7. I wont go to the track at that height. bumpstrips would rip my car apart. this is only show off height and DD height.

8. We shall see what happens. It got rid of the bumpsteer on my 180sx.

regardless, when it matters, the car will be at a reasonable height correcting all geometry issues.

1. as i already stated they would be revalved. But im looking into a few other options. a local coilover company has a stagea application with an optional 30mm shorter shock. so it might solve my problems

3.you cant get at the heights i want for show with correct diamete tires. however at the track i will be running 17x9 +30 all around with i believe (dont quote me i still haev to make sure its the right size) 255/45 Advan Reo1rs.

6.gt25 or 27 will have plenty of help with that this summer. and on the wear, ill just get some extras. they are like 20 bucks a piece.

7. I wont go to the track at that height. bumpstrips would rip my car apart. this is only show off height and DD height.

8. We shall see what happens. It got rid of the bumpsteer on my 180sx.

regardless, when it matters, the car will be at a reasonable height correcting all geometry issues.

So the idea is to have it at a low height for shows and then a more sensible height for actually driving?

:P cheers :D

oh no,

low for DD, and raise for the track.

"DD" is that Daily Driving?

Since you are going to set it at an appropriate height for track work, you obviously know how bad it is going to be, everyday, for handling, accelerating and braking. You are doing it simply for the low look, because EVERYTHING else is negatively affected in order to achieve that one thing.

There is nothing wrong with that, as long as you accept the compromises that it causes. Don't try and fool yourself or anyone else reading this thread. Looking back on your "it wil be safe" comment, the truth is it will be SAFER (and faster) when you "raise it for the track".

:D cheers :P

Of course it swill be SAFER at a track height

But at the height it is at now. i dont buttom out, i dont scrape

on entrances into some places the wheel rubs the coilover. gotta fix that

But the truth is, to be an innovator it takes work.

People could argue a TV in a car isnt safe. But its legal in jpan, not in the US and there are less accidents in japan than the US.

but i dont expect to be racing around town at the height im at. Just cruising.

But it is safe

but actually

at the height it is at now. which it will stay at becuase, well the tires get in the way fo going lower, its at a perfect height.

Edited by yokotas13

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Not sure the US can import anything other than the C34 Stagea's, but if you can and you need to to tow, DO NOT under any circumstances get an M35 Stagea. If it is just as a family car and your country/state allows it, absolutely and definitely get an M35 (3.5L if possible as it is effectively a 350Z) over a C34.
    • Punch your VIN (nm35-xxxxxx) into Amayama.com You can see everything there quite easily.
    • Thanks for that, I'll check it all out. I can always do the brakes last anyway if its a problem.  The 16's are super cool, if they do fit I'll cruise around with them for a bit.  
    • Well, that's kinda the point. The calipers might interfere with the inside of the barrels 16" rims are only about 14" inside the barrels, which is ~350mm, and 334mm rotors only leave about 8mm outboard for the caliper before you get to 350, And.... that;s not gunna be enough. If the rims have a larger ID than that, you might sneak it in. I'd be putting a measuring stick inside the wheel and eyeballing the extra required for the caliper outboard of the rotor before committing to bolting it all on.
    • OK, so again it has been a bit of a break but it was around researching what had been done since I didn't have access to Neil's records and not everything is obvious without pulling stuff apart. Happily the guy who assembled the engine had kept reasonable records, so we now know the final spec is: Bottom end: Standard block and crank Ross 86.5mm forgies, 9:1 compression Spool forged rods Standard main bolts Oil pump Spool billet gears in standard housing Aeroflow extended and baffled sump Head Freshly rebuilt standard head with new 80lb valve springs Mild porting/port match Head oil feed restrictor VCT disabled Tighe 805C reground cams (255 duration, 8.93 lift)  Adjustable cam gears on inlet/exhaust Standard head bolts, gasket not confirmed but assumed MLS External 555cc Nismo injectors Z32 AFM Bosch 023 Intank fuel pump Garret 2871 (factory housings and manifold) Hypertune FFP plenum with standard throttle   Time to book in a trip to Unigroup
×
×
  • Create New...