Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i am looking at the hks hiper damper kits. The seller has told me that the R32 one won't fit, but that the R34 one will. They are second hand on eBay but they look in pretty good nick, say they have no leaks and the seller has a good rep.

Is the seller right about the R34 ones being suitable for my stag?

You are better off looking for a Stagea kit. There is so much more glass & steel behind the rear wheels on the wagon, even if they do fit (all depends on model) the spring and damper rates at the rear will be for a car that weighs 300kg (approx) less.

Ebay sellers will often tell you what you want to hear, to make a sale. Buyer beware!

Edited by Daleo

You are better off looking for a Stagea kit. There is so much more glass & steel behind the rear wheels on the wagon, even if they do fit (all depends on model) the spring and damper rates at the rear will be for a car that weighs 300kg (approx) less.

Ebay sellers will often tell you what you want to hear, to make a sale. Buyer beware!

Cool. I had wondered about the extra weight, and a seller wanting to make a sale, which was why I thought I'd ask on here. Thanks for the help!

Cool. I had wondered about the extra weight, and a seller wanting to make a sale, which was why I thought I'd ask on here. Thanks for the help!

No worries, this forum has saved me plenty of money . :thumbsup:

Unsure of your budget, but maybe have a look at BC coilovers. Excellent value for money.

No worries, this forum has saved me plenty of money . :thumbsup:

Unsure of your budget, but maybe have a look at BC coilovers. Excellent value for money.

I'd been looking at BC, but am not sure how much budget I'll have left after putting a Nismo chip in it, plus exhaust, but I'll see how I go. I was just so tempted when I saw the HKS ones so cheap!

Hi after reading the whole 43 pages of this thread, im still unsure wether the R32 GTR shocks on the front and R33 GTST on the rear will be suitable to the weight of the stagea or not? I know there not perfect but will they be okay?

If anyone can tell me if they have used shocks from the 32 and 33 and how they went, it would be great.

Cheers

yep gtr (or gtst) front will fit & r33 gtst rear will fit with a bit of work (rear top hats are different)! As for spring and shock rates, if you are using adj coilovers then it wont be a problem, but stock items wont be perfect, but are still quite usable!

* only the factory fitted manuals (ie: 260rs & rs4s) use the gtr style rear fork!

Edited by Zorro

So what to do... after having the stagea lowered I am now faced with a choice... continue to replace the castor and camber bushes every 20 000 kms... or raise it... :(

But it is sooooo pretty this low!!!And I want more aggressive castor.. not less!

seriously...how much worse are uni-jointed castor arms tna bushes... I know they make noise when wet but is it really worth being concerned about...?

and and what is the minimum height I should cut my bumpstops???

*end rant*

@captinsane, what brand bushes are you using? you could use those pillow ball/solid mount/uni joint/shiney metal style adjustors but they require more maintainence (cleaning and re-lubricating etc)

also any modification to the bumpstop is illegal in any state so if you need to pass a rego slip soon i wouldnt unless you go spares. dont get me wrong my vw touches the ground with no bumpstops so i love lowered cars but yeh id either pull em out or find some GTR ones to cut.

Hi guys , i've got myself a s2 RS-v rwd 98 wgc34, an i have got myself some ISC coilovers but the fronts dont fit. the cars top mount has 3 bolts an the base mount is the same as a holden mcpherson strut, the guys at isc r not to sure whats going on. can anyone help? the stub axel has a lower control arm, tension arm, sway bar and the shocky. help.

  • 2 weeks later...

I also have a 99 RS stag that I am hunting shocks for. Don't know if to go cheap BC coilovers or a Bilstein or kyb shock? I really want a nice comfortable ride and a guard height of about 360 ish.

Any experiences?

Cheers

I also have a 99 RS stag that I am hunting shocks for. Don't know if to go cheap BC coilovers or a Bilstein or kyb shock? I really want a nice comfortable ride and a guard height of about 360 ish.

Any experiences?

Cheers

i've been running BC's for just over a year now and i'm happy with them, i haven't had any issue's. the guys at justjap recommended them to me and said they had a few customers running them in their stagea's and had only good reports about them. from memory the springs are only a bit stiffer than stock, something like 8kg front and 6kg rear. i only have the dampers set to half way and the ride is good. i do a few road trips a year, sometimes with the car fully loaded, and with the exception of a few bumps that would be harsh on any suspension, the ride is comfortable. i've taken the stagea on a couple of twisty mountain runs too and it handled really well.

just got a 97 stagea rs4 and my rear wheels are sticking out a mm or 2 and i need to get stock rims for it or does anyone know what stock rims can go on stageas like r34 maybe r33 etc

do you have plans to lower your car? when you lower it the wheels will pull in a bit and wont stick out as far.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The average previous owner for these cars were basically S-chassis owners in the US. Teenagers or teenager-adjacent. I often tell people that neglect is easier to fix than something that was actively "repaired" by previous owners.
    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
×
×
  • Create New...