Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all,

I have some rust spots under the car. According to a vehicle inspection earlier in the year it wasn't a major problem, but one that should be looked into.

What's the best way to treat them? I'm thinking of sanding back the spots then spraying a few coats of paint on the underside. Are there any other methods/products to use which are recommended?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/53119-surface-rust-on-underbody/
Share on other sites

u can get that black tar stuff that the underbody is covered with from new to cover the rust up with.. that way it will sort of blend in with the rest of it..

ive seen compliance places doing it as lots of imports have a bit of corrosion underneath (snow in japan doesnt help)

Hi,

Here's where my years of experience as a VL owner are useful - RUST! :P

First knock off any loose bits of rust, flaking paint or lifting underseal. Use a wire brush or a bit of sandpaper.

Second, use some rust converter (from the hardware shop) that stops the rust spreading. Let it dry, maybe overnight.

Third, a coat of underseal over the area to keep it sealed up.

cheers

Z

Make sure you kill the sand it then kill any left over rust.

Then hit it with the underbody sound deadner that can be had from any auto shop.

Paint it on. It protects against stone chips and helps with sound deadening. :D

Providing you have all the rust cleaned up it won't rust under the underbody deadner.

This is a good overview of how rust converters work -> http://www.corrosion-doctors.org/MetalCoat...t-converter.htm

I've found the K+H stuff from most auto stores is quite good (tannic acid based).

The best method i've found is to remove as much rust as possible using mechanical means. I like to use a wire wheel on an angle grinder, or you can hand sand but this takes longer. I'm not a big fan of sanding/flap wheels on grinders because they take metal off too easily. Then hit with the rust converter, then paint.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • This looks great! Awesome to have the 5 speed with an LSD in this. The Recaro's look like SR2's or SR3's. It's a shame they've been retrimmed as they would have looked sweet in their original colours. I think I'd want my agent to be a little more up front and informative too. I've never imported but I reckon it would make me a little nervous, so the more info the better.
    • Thanks for doing that Duncan! Makes you a good person in my books. We don't get kangaroos or wombats here. But we have bats and it's similar. AFAIK it's often the mums with a baby attached that get hit because they drop lower when starting from a tree. If you hit an animal, check on it. https://www.ifaw.org/au/resources/wildlife-rescue-app An app to get the closest wildlife rescue contact.
    • My dream is also to have a proper hoist, but I don't think it will ever happen. My quickjack is probably as close as I'll ever get, it really is very good though. 
    • Yeah we keep on in the dailies, it is pretty poor how many animals get hit and the driver leaves without checking....have saved a couple of little ones over the years. Bit of a gruesome job though, pouches generally need to be cut open because they are so tight and often the joey doesn't realise mum is gone so they are still locked onto the teat. I checked the modules in front of the DS wheel where an oil cooler should go.... There is the radar unit - that can go for race use) One of the 2 HX water pumps, the silver cylinder. That needs to be kept but might be able to be relocated But the bad news, the big computer mounted vertically in front of the wheel (blocking any potential air exit) is the electric steering computer. That is required until/unless i do a hydraulic steering conversion, and in CAD based modern car design it is not like I can just pop a big unit like that somewhere else (plus the loom would be too short anywhere else too). So, the passenger side is OK to clear out (just use a smaller washer reservoir, potentially elsewhere), but the DS no beuno
    • Well, all the best with the new camry It was interesting to hear about the UK process, it is generally a lot more streamlined here with a shipping agent looking after all the import side (noting the exact final price can still be a surprise.....) and I've used a few different brokers on the japan (or US) side, and never had any trouble with any of them....luck of the draw I guess. You mentioned you didn't get the auction sheet (understandable since you bought it from a dealer, not auction), but I always try and get hold of that because they are pretty thorough. I've imported 2x R grade vehicles over the years and both were fine, repairs in Japan are pretty thorough compared to here in Oz.
×
×
  • Create New...