Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ive got 18s on my R33 so would you be suggesting that when i go to the drags (as i am planning to go to WSID soon) that i put the stock 16s back on?

Wouldnt they reduce my grip level though when im taking off?

What would you reckon is my best course of action here 2rismo?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/53455-stock-gts-t-r33/#findComment-1058257
Share on other sites

large rims requires fitting lower profile tyres with less sidewall flex, so you might experience tyre-hop or tyre skipping on the tarmac as you launch hard, reducing traction. in drag racing optimum traction is gained if ur car can squat down enough during hard launch. some larger rims also increases unsprung weight and requires more effort from the engine to spin it, therefore can reduce your acceleration rate.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/53455-stock-gts-t-r33/#findComment-1059713
Share on other sites

that's an option, but IMO 18" lightweight usually are pretty expensive and a rubber that wide are expensive too... especially if u had semi slicks and doing burnouts will wear it out quicker and send u broke after a few drag meets :-P

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/53455-stock-gts-t-r33/#findComment-1059783
Share on other sites

Stick the stockies back on, deflate them toabout 18psi and off ya go.  You'll also accelerate quicker with the smaller rolling diameter.

Let us know how ya go...

Adrian

thanks for the tip, i think i'll be putting the stockers back on. Will post up my results as it will be my first time at the drags :jump:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/53455-stock-gts-t-r33/#findComment-1061562
Share on other sites

the thing is this. you max width, with a small wheel e.g. 15 inch to have max sidewall flex. the problem is 15 inch wheels are usually 6.5 inchs wide. which is shithouse.

It's like a balancing slider. if his 18s are 18 x 275, that is quite a bit wider than the stock tyres (205 or 225). if he's running nittos, the grip due to width may still be faster than the stockies even though they're heaps heavier.

Perfect wheel would be some nice light weight 15 x 10 inch wheels running slicks. yummy.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/53455-stock-gts-t-r33/#findComment-1061734
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It says 300ZX, does that make it an Aus delivered car? Funny how back in the day I just couldn't care less about Z32's and these days I am just in love with them. Back when Nissan was into pushing the envelope. 🤣
    • Hi guys, just after some guidance with an R34 sunroof that has stopped working correctly. It still opens and closes perfectly fine, but it no longer tilts/vents up or down. As a result, the rear of the glass now sags a bit as it drops down slightly in order to retract into the roof, but now it can't pop upwards into a flush position. I’ve probed the pins on the back of the switch connector with a multimeter and it seems like both switches (for open/close and tilt/vent) still work correctly. Any ideas on what it could be, or where I should even start in terms of diagnosing? I'm sure someone's had this issue before but I haven't been able to find anything online relating to this specific issue, most of the issues are with the seals leaking or the motor failing entirely. Thanks in advance!
    • Do you have some data like fuel pressure? It's really hard to say if you're still fighting a fuel system issue at this point. Could be something weird like the FPCM dipping out.
    • Yeah in that case, pulling the dent out. Event a very slight dent can create a lot of work filler-wise and there is a strong chance the panel won't be the factory shape when you are done (as the dent will result in a new high point created somewhere, then everything is brought up to that new high point... but the panel shouldn't be that high if that makes sense).  So you've filled and primed the panel and it is flat, why would you go back and remove the primer and add more filler? 
    • Something else I have been faffing with while the car was off the road is making the AC work. Assuming the car isn't at a thermal limit the idea of having AC while waiting in line to go on track sounds delightful. I have actually been lugging around the weight of the entire system since 2018 when the RB25NEO went in without it working at all.  The main reason was in the first few events before I got around to re-gassing it the rubber hose that runs under the manifold had the factory heat wrap/sleeve fail resulting in this: ~2 years ago I purchased a complete used R32 AC line set but when I finally went to install it the line i needed was different where the expansion section is I found a local place that was able to replace the rubber section and re-crimp. They also added some modern heat sleeve to the hose Tight fit but fingers crossed this is the last physical piece of the puzzle needed
×
×
  • Create New...