Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi there fellas,

im getting a front mount soon for the line and more than likely be installing it myself. Ive looked at the one currently on my silvia to get an idea of how to do it but I would like to know if any one here has installed one themselves and if so was it easy or hard. More importantly though is would anyone be willing to give me a hand - there are incentives. :cuddle: Im not sure if all front bars are the same but i have a series 2 and it looks quite time consuming. btw the cooler is a 600x300x76 variant.

cheers,

dooky.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/53592-intercooler-install-help/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 47
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

I have a hybrid cooler on my 32 that is the same size as yours. me and my friend put it on. It wasnt hard just abit time consuming. I have a gtr front bar that needed some gentle moulding with a angle grinder :P to make it all fit.

Make sure you line it all up properly and it all square before you cut the hole in the engine bay for the cooler piping.

cheers jagar. Apparently there is not alot of piping need as you may think - i was thinking the same in the beginning as well. I dont have a pic of what it will look like but if you have seen a thread going around by wados then that is what mine will hopefully look it.

personally i don't like the 180 trun around in air flow as i just cut a hole under neath the relay box bit more heat but then i ot ss piping, an exhaust shop can do it for like a 300 bux, but then that mild steel which doesn't conduct heat very well and no clamps and stuff included.

evan usually does ss and high tension clamp and hose, the best sh1t around, have a chat to him cool bloke tells you as is no sh1t involved

i had a chat to evan, yeah his prices were quite impressive and sounded like a nice bloke. Although when i headed now to an exhaust shop which to my suprise quoted an even more impressive price - quotes were in stainless steel btw. this certain shop wanted $170 for the pipes that i was after then asked if i was going to weld it myself - i think the guy thought i was welding an exhaust system as i didnt tell him i wanted it for intercooler piping. on this note, would welding the pipes were the bends are be much better than clamping them together with silicion hose.

Ive taken that issue into consideration but dont have any other alternative to go with atm. fabricated piping - the one in which goes over the engine bay cost approx. $600 while this is only a fraction of the price. Another problem i have is that if i wanted to use less piping ie over engine bay again, there is no measurements which i can go by unless someone here can give me theirs or can the workshop do this for me as when i asked i was being specific.

have you finished your masters yet. on another note, i was advised to get a compression test done before i install the cooler. Is this true or would i just be asking my money - either way it doesnt make sense to be in having a compression test done just for the sake of adding a mod. any ideas??

the pressure drop over that much piping would be insane Duc .... lag city I reckon!

if you calculate the total length of the piping going back to the factory locations it works out about the same as the more common across the engine setup.

I have done the aforemention install and have no noticable increase in lag.

if you calculate the total length of the piping going back to the factory locations it works out about the same as the more common across the engine setup.

I have done the aforemention install and have no noticable increase in lag.

sweet. Did you by any chance use the piping measurements that wados used on his 32 or was your already made to measure. If it was custom, could you please tell me your measurements as i dont want either excess or shortage of piping when i come to install the cooler.

edit - i just had a look at your gallery and noticed that you also had a series 2 front bar. I was wondering if you had to make alterations to it for the cooler to fit.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I came here to note that is a zener diode too base on the info there. Based on that, I'd also be suspicious that replacing it, and it's likely to do the same. A lot of use cases will see it used as either voltage protection, or to create a cheap but relatively stable fixed voltage supply. That would mean it has seen more voltage than it should, and has gone into voltage melt down. If there is something else in the circuit dumping out higher than it should voltages, that needs to be found too. It's quite likely they're trying to use the Zener to limit the voltage that is hitting through to the transistor beside it, so what ever goes to the zener is likely a signal, and they're using the transistor in that circuit to amplify it. Especially as it seems they've also got a capacitor across the zener. Looks like there is meant to be something "noisy" to that zener, and what ever it was, had a melt down. Looking at that picture, it also looks like there's some solder joints that really need redoing, and it might be worth having the whole board properly inspected.  Unfortunately, without being able to stick a multimeter on it, and start tracing it all out, I'm pretty much at a loss now to help. I don't even believe I have a climate control board from an R33 around here to pull apart and see if any of the circuit appears similar to give some ideas.
    • Nah - but you won't find anything on dismantling the seats in any such thing anyway.
    • Could be. Could also be that they sit around broken more. To be fair, you almost never see one driving around. I see more R chassis GTRs than the Renault ones.
    • Yeah. Nah. This is why I said My bold for my double emphasis. We're not talking about cars tuned to the edge of det here. We're talking about normal cars. Flame propagation speed and the amount of energy required to ignite the fuel are not significant factors when running at 1500-4000 rpm, and medium to light loads, like nearly every car on the road (except twin cab utes which are driven at 6k and 100% load all the time). There is no shortage of ignition energy available in any petrol engine. If there was, we'd all be in deep shit. The calorific value, on a volume basis, is significantly different, between 98 and 91, and that turns up immediately in consumption numbers. You can see the signal easily if you control for the other variables well enough, and/or collect enough stats. As to not seeing any benefit - we had a couple of EF and EL Falcons in the company fleet back in the late 90s and early 2000s. The EEC IV ECU in those things was particularly good at adding in timing as soon as knock headroom improved, which typically came from putting in some 95 or 98. The responsiveness and power improved noticeably, and the fuel consumption dropped considerably, just from going to 95. Less delta from there to 98 - almost not noticeable, compared to the big differences seen between 91 and 95. Way back in the day, when supermarkets first started selling fuel from their own stations, I did thousands of km in FNQ in a small Toyota. I can't remember if it was a Starlet or an early Yaris. Anyway - the supermarket servos were bringing in cheap fuel from Indonesia, and the other servos were still using locally refined gear. The fuel consumption was typically at least 5%, often as much as 8% worse on the Indo shit, presumably because they had a lot more oxygenated component in the brew, and were probably barely meeting the octane spec. Around the same time or maybe a bit later (like 25 years ago), I could tell the difference between Shell 98 and BP 98, and typically preferred to only use Shell then because the Skyline ran so much better on it. Years later I found the realtionship between them had swapped, as a consequence of yet more refinery closures. So I've only used BP 98 since. Although, I must say that I could not fault the odd tank of United 98 that I've run. It's probably the same stuff. It is also very important to remember that these findings are often dependent on region. With most of the refineries in Oz now dead, there's less variability in local stuff, and he majority of our fuels are not even refined here any more anyway. It probably depends more on which SE Asian refinery is currently cheapest to operate.
    • You don't have an R34 service manual for the body do you? Have found plenty for the engine and drivetrain but nothing else
×
×
  • Create New...