Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

For r33 gts-t.Does the 400r side skirts actually sit lower to the ground than stock items?

can anyone tell me if this pic is in fact a jun bodykit & if not what style of side skirts are they!!Does anybody have pics of the full kit.Reason being i am thinking of buying....

lol...So it wasnt you..Now i remember it(car) was at the sydney drift nats..It was similar looking to your 33 it had 243rwkw and had a hybrid turbo....lol..It was more than a month ago and a perth crew took top houners in pro class 2nd to nic valhoumos and how very dissapointed he was.I remember them cause they were sitting right in front of me going off every time their driver went past......

What do you guys think of this....Jun front bar,400r side skirts and nismo rear pods...

pinoi_boi_r33Sweet looking ride.Where abouts did you get your kit from and what did you pay for it?How much for side the skirts on their own?

thanks trust33. umm it was bout 1300 all up. the front was bought separately from the skirts, and stock rear bumper. skirts were new and i bought em off some1 here, they were 250 delivered, can't remember how much painting was. the front was from pulse autostyling here in melb (imo they were not good to deal with) was cheapish tho. The skirts where from originally dmd image, predator off these forums got em then decided he didn't want em so i bought em.

jun front 400r skirts and those pods will look pretty mad. I stooopidly backed into a mates fence on saturday (don't ask) not that bad damage but i might get a whole new rear bar anyway. i've always wanted a do luck one or a jun one but no one has copies of them.

The Jun rear bar aint actually a rear bar, They call them mudflaps, which also extend around the back. I emailed JUN japan for them and for the spoiler, but when they told me that price, i forgot aobut it lol

this is the unique version of the jun rear bar:

the other pictures of the Jun version of the jun bar. from the jun site. unique has got a fair few of there crap rong on their page.

i also emailed em and found out the price lol. Junichi is a good guy tho.

this is the unique version of the jun rear bar:

the other pictures of the Jun version of the jun bar. from the jun site. unique has got a fair few of there crap rong on their page.

i also emailed em and found out the price lol. Junichi is a good guy tho.

Yeah he is a good guy because he actually replies to emails, unlike other companies :D. When i wanted to get the Wing and the Rear Mud Flaps, the cartage cost more than the Rear mud flaps lol. I think i got Quoted AU$2700 just for a spoiler and the mudflaps fully delivered (unpainted of course).

i think that you would definately need some sort of aftermarket rear bumper to make the bodykit flow ie 400R rear bar as the stock rear bar on some of the pics posted excepted the jun kits, looks unpoportioned.

i dont know yet im still wondering what to do.im going to try and photoshop the kits onto a 33 just to get an idea. The jun side skirts are damn low n my ride has 17's with lowered suspension im thinking too low for the road.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Input shaft bearing. They all do it. There is always rollover noise in Nissan boxes - particularly the big box. Don't worry about it unless it gets really growly.
    • For once a good news  It needed to be adjusted by that one nut and it is ok  At least something was easy But thank you very much for help. But a small issue is now(gearbox) that when the car is stationary you can hear "clinking" from gearbox so some of the bearing is 100% not that happy... It goes away once you push clutch so it is 100% gearbox. Just if you know...what that bearing could be? It sounding like "spun bearing" but it is louder.
    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
×
×
  • Create New...