Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Depends on what you are after Heath. I now use the DBA brakes and I really like them. They have a heap of different types depending on the level of performance you are after.

I got mine from Racebrakes in Nth Melbourne.

You can get info on the different rotors DBA make at their website:

http://www.dba.com.au/default.asp

FYI - I'm running the DBA5000 slotted fronts and the DBA4000 slotted rears.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/53932-brakes/#findComment-1056972
Share on other sites

yeah DBAs seem to be what everyone uses... especially when u see the prices of the Japanese performance brakes!

slotteds are like 170 or 180 each and the sports are about 220 depending on where u go

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/53932-brakes/#findComment-1056989
Share on other sites

They are DBA Slotted. yeah i thought $193 each for rear rotors wasnt too bad. He seems to be very cheap compared to alot of other companies who I called. If you need any brake parts I highly recommend them.

Race Brakes in North Melbourne. Phone 9326-6088 and speak to Brad

DBA Website - http://www.dba.com.au/default.asp

Race Brakes Website - http://www.racebrakes.com.au

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/53932-brakes/#findComment-1058922
Share on other sites

I emailed Racebrakes about some prices a few weeks ago, and this is what i got back from them. All for R32 Gtst Type M:

DBA Long life Gold (slotted and drilled):

DBA909x $210.00 each (Front)

DBA908x $225.00 each (Rear)

DBA Standard:

DBA908sl $193.60 each (rear slotted)

DBA908 $185.00 each (rear normal)

DBA 4000 Series:

DBA4909 & DBA4908 $194 EACH (normal)

DBA4908SL/SR & DBA4909SL/SR $246 EACH (slotted)

DBA4908XS & DBA4909XS $300 EACH (slotted and drilled)

There you go, I think im going to go the longlife golds for the front, because i dont do any track work and dont have the money for the 4000's.

Rhett

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/53932-brakes/#findComment-1060488
Share on other sites

$193 a rotor???    

shxt....i just replace mine with DBA 4000 slotted rotors...and i boutght them for 250each....

For that price i think he must have just got the standard slotted rotors, not the 4000 series.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/53932-brakes/#findComment-1060491
Share on other sites

I have actualy purchase DentonR33's GTST.. I havent actualy picked it up yet. Hopefully this week or early next week. I wont be doing much track work because the car will be a daily driver and I dont want to write it off and also im planning on a big return back into the Formula 3 series again next year all going well. I will be most defently up for winton/phillip island track days but not sandown. I think Sandown and Calder park are the worst tracks I have driven on. But I will be heading out on some SAU cruises and really really looking forward to meeting everyone and going for a spin!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/53932-brakes/#findComment-1060512
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...