Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hullo,

I've been practising the breaking drift a bit and it seems im on the threshold of the car going sideways, but by the time i feel it ready to come out im going way too slow so i just bail... now currently my susp setup is horse shit, really soft stockers, now the thing that i wanna know is, wouldnt soft susp be good for shifting the weight, because it moves so feely or is stiff susp better because you can only shift it to a certain point untill it slides out, giving the car a much lower slide / traction break threshold ?

Thanks!!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/53972-breaking-drift-suspension-setup/
Share on other sites

soft suspension would help to transfer wait forward, however it comes back to the whole pendulume effect. when stomping brakes at high speed with soft suspension, the car will nose in, the back lifting and wait will tranfer forwards. also to with hard susspension weight will tranfer, it may not look like weight is transfering as much but thats because body roll in soft suspension is missleading in appearance. in hard suspension the weight transfers quickly and isnt dampended like it is with soft suspension. when braking with hard suspension its more quick an accurate transfer. sorry blaaahhh on for ages

Thats it, if you can't afford new stiff suspension, maybe use adjustable swaybars to stiffen the rear suspension right up and so that less weight shift it taken up by the rear suspension, thus forcing the rear to slip not grip!

LOL - my mate shamed a few people by out drifting them in a stock e30 325e - with 64rwkw ... so you can make it happen without spending on mods if you know how!

muahahah 64rwkw thats money well spent :P the $200 datto had 49rwkw....those extra 15 cost a fiar bit

hehe, thanks for the response!

i glady appreciate it... i reacon it would be wise for me to learn with shit suspension so when i do get decent springs or coilovers i can relly apreaciate them and use them to thier limit.. thankyou!!!

Hmmmm... learning to cut with a blunt knife...

I really don't know if it is good. Learning without a lot of power I agree with (stops you from being a straight line hero) but good suspension means you are learning to drive, not to compensate for the car being ghey.

good point... but wouldnt learning the limits of a poor setup help you take advantage of a good setup..  and exploit it for maximum drifts?

Well the best drifter I know learned in S13 with craptacular suspension and horrid wheel alignment (mostly due to hit gutters). So he seems to think you can do it with stuffed stock suspension.

I have only ever slid around a S14 with stock but fairly new suspension which I found very roly poly but very easy to slide. The drivers I have seen with crappy suspension that were drifting pretty badly instantly were better with new suspension and are now extremely good.

So yeah maybe bad suspension is a good training tool. Hmmm, hard to know.

Yep... compared to Japan (almost) everyone is very slow so they can't use the momentum to come into the corner properly. Speaking to the Japanese driver's they said they only used the handbrake to hold the car out sideways after it is already there

silver e30 at wakefield

yea i remeber that guy

quite dangerouse on the race track

ran me of the road

someone should tell him when overtaking on the race track in a straight line to only cut infront after he actually passes you as opposed to cutting in front and running you into the dirt.

im glad i was in a mates 808 ... maybe should have let him run into me

nice bloke besides that

hmm i'll let him know fatz... he gets a bit of tunnel vision in a race car!

Sorry mate!

funny thing is that car is sooooo slow in a straight line, cant believe he overtook you LOL

meh everyone knows pete's a pu55y on a race track, no wonder he got past :P

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • For once a good news  It needed to be adjusted by that one nut and it is ok  At least something was easy But thank you very much for help. But a small issue is now(gearbox) that when the car is stationary you can hear "clinking" from gearbox so some of the bearing is 100% not that happy... It goes away once you push clutch so it is 100% gearbox. Just if you know...what that bearing could be? It sounding like "spun bearing" but it is louder.
    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
×
×
  • Create New...