Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I would like to know how much i should budget to rebuild my rb20.

there is nothing wrong with it apart from a few ks on it.

I just want to do a propper rebuild and need to know what to do

I guess get the block chemically cleaned and honed machining journals? how much?

have pistons balanced do i need new pistons? how much?

get the rods balanced?

rod bolts?

bearings, rings, gaskets, valves, springs

having never undertaken a rebuild i dont know how much to budget.

I want the bottom ent to cope with 210-220 rwkw so nothing to special

can anyone recommend a place in sydney that will do the lot for me? ie drop off motor pick up rebuilt later?

can you save cash doing some work yourself?

thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/54800-rb20-rebuild-budget/
Share on other sites

You carnt machine it your self but you can assemble it your self .

You need the right tention settings for rods bolts and heads bolts and other things. Just be careful putting rings on pistons beceause if they break you have to buy whole new set of pistons because you carnt get them seperate - That i know of.

I'd go forged pistons to keep your enigne stronger so it lasts in the long run.

:mad:

Jun

ceffie that motor was pretty good 12 months ago it had the head off and it was checked only had aroudn 70000 klms then and the car had 100 and something dont spend the cash till it blows if you want to run up to 200- 220 bolt in an rb 25 there are alot of good reasons for this namely the injectors will handel that much power its torquier etc.

the reason it has a little bit less power than the other cefs is the motor is from an r32 not a cefiro ceffies have bigger cams

yes I'm pretty sure it was my old black ceff

cheers

meggala

G'day fellas, I'm pretty new to this so bare with me. I wish I found this forum earlier. I recently had an ordinary experience with an engine rebuild. I had my r32 gtst for about 2 years when I blew the engine while in the gong. I live in neutral bay so I got the car towed to a workshop in brookvale that I had the car serviced at previously. They said they did rebuilds so I got a quote and they got started. It was supposed to have Arias forged pistons, metal head gasket, HKS cam gears, Tomei cams, the usual head work/machining etc.

Anyway, the basics are, I know very little about the mechanical side, I don't work on cars myself, but I had the money to have some fun with it. I handed over a Chq for half of what I intended to spend, six months later, the knob hadn't even started ordering parts for the car. I was losing it. I ended up getting the car back, engine rebuilt, yet without cams, cam gears, metal head gasket. Basically headwork and pistons. The guy is a complete rort. I'm currently compiling a court case.

Sorry about the long winded whinge, just be careful who you trust.

ceffie that motor was pretty good 12 months ago it had the head off and it was checked only had aroudn 70000 klms then and the car had 100 and something dont spend the cash till it blows if you want to run up to 200- 220 bolt in an rb 25 there are alot of good reasons for this namely  the injectors will handel that much power its torquier etc.

the reason it has a little bit less power than the other cefs is the motor is from an r32 not a cefiro ceffies have bigger cams

 

yes I'm pretty sure it was my old black ceff

cheers

meggala

Hi Megalla ;) yep its your old car i just didnt want to bug you too much :rofl: i didnt want to ask you every little detail of the car as its not your problem anymore.

Yeah the engine still seems fine except when i am maximum throttle and rev it to 7k then change gears and give it gas it pings just a little untill the revs get back up over 5k and then its fine.

I have had the A/F ratios checked and they are fine.

mods i have done since having the car

FMIC 600 x 300 + waterspray kit

new injectors just cleaned and flowtested

RB25 turb slightly hiflowed

turb back exhaust 3" "with cat thistime" hehe!

oil catch can

custom air intake/box

bigger fuel pump

Did u do any work on the bottom end Steve? or did you just replace the burnt valve?

Cheers mate :rant:

what r u driving now?

If you are after 200-210rwks then all things being equal the engine will handle that no prob.

If it dies and you find you werent happy with that power then just throw in an RB25, but i wouldnt go re-building the RB20 especially if its alive and running:cheers:

If you are keen to rebuild the RB20 the two thing I would do is use 81-82mm pistons to bump up the capacity a little and when slecting the pistons id try and lift compression a little to around 8.8:1. Then i would clean up the ports and combustion chambers and throw in a set of cams to try and get the head flowing a bit better. So thats 3 things, pistons, cams and headwork...without the cams and headwork the thing will be tough as nails but never really make any good numbers:(

Id stick with std rods, std crank and enjoy what would be a pretty surprising and very tough engine....sadly a std RB25 will more likely make more power easier, and you would have to be looking at over 250rwkws before the RB20 with internals could be seen as beign more reliable then a std RB25 with a high flow turbo or HKS2535 etc

Basically if you are opening up an RB20 you have to go stupid to make it worth it, otherwise just keep throwing std engines at it...my 2c

Ok my dream RB20 (its a dream engine as it makes no sense in the real world where you need bang for dollar)

- 82mm forged pistons.

- RB26 crank

- Aftermarket GTR rods, Argo etc etc

- N1 GTR water and oil pumps

- 270 - 9.2mm cams and springs

- Plenty of headwork

- Extrude honed inlet manifold with larger throttle body

- Tomei Solid lifter kit

- HPC coated valves and combustion chamber

- HKS 3037S or maybe a T04Z

- 650cc injectors

- twin palte clutch

- RB25 5-spd

The thing would rev its t1ts off, with the same stroke as an RB26 but with smaller diam (ie lighter pistons) it would easily rev as hard as a tweaked RB26 , imagine 9,000rpm and banshee sound from the wastegate.

With the 3037S it would be reasonalby responsive at 2.4L and 8.8:1 compression. Id assume it woudl make 320-350rwkws at between 1.4-1.8bar

With the T04Z it would likely make over 350rwkws.. hell i even thought how would the RB20 block go with a HKS 2.8L crank!!!! Throw somthing like the HKS T04Z on an R31 GTSR low mount manifold and ppl wouldnt expect anything from the stock looking (ok maybe not sounding:)) RB20, complete with original RB20 engine number,

going out to 82 mm bore is very oversize....that must be getting close to the water jackets ?? not such a great idea on turbo engines ????

has any taken the bore out this far ???

i just got 0.5mm oversize done with Arias Pistons so prices were as follows

Bore Block - $180

Line Hone - $240

Balance of Crank,rods and pistons - $280

Deck Block $65

(New Pistons had a range of 2 grams now an even 297.5g)

hope that helps

It will cost an extra 1k or so but I would seriously look at building up an RB25 instead.

Take one for a spin and you will soon realise why the old saying of 'There's no replacement for displacement' is so so true.

The RB25 is a simple drop it in exercise providing you go with the RB25DE NA head.

I went for the RB30 bottom end rebuild that required a few little mods like engine mounts, front pipe and turbo oil/water lines. Nothing major though. The mods all up cost an extra $150. That was $70 for the engine mounts and $80 for the dump pipe.

The other mods (slight bending of the oil/water lines) can be done by your self.

I really am so so glad I went with the larger motor and didn't waste money on rebuilding a rb20. With the turbo's wastegate disabled (wired fully open) it made 133rwkw at 5000rpm (where power started to flatten out & because it is a fairly fresh motor it wasn't rev'd any more) with an AFR of 11:1 and ignition timing of 15deg, stock turbo & stock RB20DET ECU.

Even with the wastegate wired fully open it still made 6psi of boost above 4000rpm.

Below 3500rpm there is zero boost.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Bit of an update to this one. Having some issues on the dyno that held us back (boost spiking) and I want to pass some info over you guys and see what you think is wrong with my setup. The current readout on this dyno is 462rwkw on a low reading dyno so keep in mind it is a real world 500rwkw setup on a hub dyno. Don't read into the power figure too much as a sign of the issue. The short and curly of it is: 2.8 Litre Racepace build RB25 NEO N/A Head with VCT (internally standard however ) Borgwarner EFR 8474  Turbosmart 50mm Straight Gate + Mac valve 6Boost Manifold 4" dump to full 4" exhaust (nil restrictions) Wastegate plumbed back in and all angles in the exhaust system are acceptable and not too sharp. GFB SV52 BOV in cooler piping  Turbosmart BOV in EFR Housing   The issue we are having is it comes onto full boost for example at 4000rpm and spikes to 24/25psi, before dropping down to 17psi before slowly rising back up to the target boost of 23psi. It was extremely uncontrollable and the tuner actually had to ramp in boost progrssively with each 1000rpm on each boost setting we selected to try and reduce the amount of spiking. Sometimes we would see a drop of 10psi from the peak at the beginning of the run, to the low, until it took the next 500-1000rpm to stabilise back up to the target boost. The tuner is pretty confident that the straight gate is just a poorly designed product and leaks too much boost upon cracking the gate open and theres no way to fix it other than going to a poppet valve. He's also confient theres no ignition breakdown or floating valves. The fueling is extremely stable as well. Turbo speed is somewhere around the 109,000rpm area. The spanner in the works for me is that prior to this Borgwarner and StraightGate, the car was tuned on -5 twins at a diferent tuner, and he also had issues controlling the boost with it spiking around the same rpm range, so to me this sounds like the same issue and it can't be anything on the turbo side as this was all changed and I think the behaviour is extremely similar, if not the same. We also removed the mac valve and did a run on wastegate pressure and it still spiked and had the same behaviour. My thoughts on possibilities are: Boost Leak VCT Cam Gear isn't reliably activating consistently - (On this however, we did a run with the VCT disabled and the boost still spiked) Turbosmart BOV is not handling the boost? However this seems unlikely to not be able to handle 20psi. I have a couple of logs that I can't make sense of if anybody knows how to read them and can obtain further logs of other parameters if they are not enough, happy to pay for anyones time. The dyno readout with the power figure is the most recent last week. The other picture is from two weeks prior to that where we couldn't break 400kw (we removed the cat), however the issue of the boost control persisted. @Lithium @Piggaz @burn4005 @GTSBoy @discopotato03 I've tagged those that were quite active in recent pages here, no disrespect to those that know turbos well but I missed tagging. Cheers 
    • I recently purchased a 2018 Infiniti Q60, which has an SD card navigation map. I can see my system has options for real time traffic updates etc, and am wondering if there is something I can purchase to get this working? I can see there are at least updated maps for USA and Canada, but nothing for Australia. Surely Infiniti took changing road systems and city expansions into account when they decided to use an inbuilt navigation over Android Auto/Apple Car Play, or are we doomed to drive on streets that don't exist in the navigation system if you drive to a new area?
    • Luckily I didn't put in etch primer as I just found out it's not compatible with my body filler lol. Also just need to sand the panel anywhere between 150-400 grit so I'm in the clear there. It does say to not apply to soft old paint, I assume that means paint that is flaking, peeling,etc
    • @dbm7 and @GTSBoy thank you both very much! will give that a shot!
×
×
  • Create New...