Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Got a friend with a nicely modded GTiR (exhaust, intercooler, boost controller, chipped ecu) and he hasnt had any problems with it (except for one gearbox breakage). Hes had the car for over 2 years now. It does drink petrol like crazy though, and Ive heard the same from other owners...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/54847-pulsar-gti-r/#findComment-1071731
Share on other sites

I've since sold the GTiR and moved onto the GTR

The GTiR didn't have many problems, just CVs and rear diff

Still looking at sky high insurance costs, costs of parts combination of expensive uncommon things and common pulsar parts. Big theft target too, mine was stolen from new owner ;)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/54847-pulsar-gti-r/#findComment-1071759
Share on other sites

My options are to either buy a pulsar gtir and add a full whiteline handling kit, hks gtrs, FMIC, exhaust and super sequential BOV and a bit of rice. (mags). Or, have a stock standard r32 gtr.

Now, which should i go for? in a race who do you think would win? If i had the gtir with those mods, what power and quarter times am i looking at? Thanks for your help huys

Regards

Chris

CSV Imports

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/54847-pulsar-gti-r/#findComment-1073050
Share on other sites

To be honest I can still hardly afford the upkeep of a GTR even with the money I have coming in. I know I couldnt when I was 18 thats for sure. Those mods would get a GTiR into the 12s no doubt but you're missing alot of essential parts to make it move quicker.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/54847-pulsar-gti-r/#findComment-1073063
Share on other sites

Thanks alot morgs, those were just my basic mods, th ones that I can afford now. Once I sell my excel (dont laugh, my folks bought it for me), the money should be good for an OS Giken gear set. I also plan to get a Power FC, sard 1000cc injectors, new nismo front diff, DBA brakes, or a brake urgrade to r33 gtr brakes some more rice, Audio and lots of other things.

Is there anything else I need? My engineer said I wouldnt have to resport to forgies yet but it would be advisable. so I spose I better add that to the list of Mods.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/54847-pulsar-gti-r/#findComment-1073075
Share on other sites

Definately need to put more thought into it

Dont bother with anything from Japan GTiR is an old car most of the stuff isnt still made or cheap - get a half PAR dog box (straight cut gears) or similar, it'll be expensive noisy and unfriendly but won't break.

On the ECU side maybe look for something with antilag and launch control, hell they were rally cars, autronic would be good value for money. Wont need 1000cc injectors unless you're aiming for 1000hp :D Brake upgrade GTR brakes will fit from memory but you'll need a set of 17s to fit them.

Depends on how much power you want. GTiR SR20 is a good motor personally I wouldn't touch it unless I had to long as the compression is fine, just need to upgrade fuel IC oil cooler and it'll live through a fair bit of punishment. Dont forget the drivetrain.

Either way you've got potential to put yourself through a fair bit of financial pain.

A 4 door GTS4 on the other hand.... :D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/54847-pulsar-gti-r/#findComment-1073085
Share on other sites

Yea my gts4 sedan has put a dent in my pocket. Yea I heard about some dog box from some where which was aparantly extreamy hardy, will get back to you on that one... The gtir comes out wiht 440cc right? so what do you recommend? 660cc? Yes i will have 17s so gtr brakes should be okay, and the whiteline kit to correct the understeer... SO what cpu is it that you reccomend? Now it sounds to me as though you dont exactly like the gtir engine that much, any reasons? Are you pointing me in the direction of the gtr? What made you change? If I can get myself a clean RELIABLE gtir into the 12s without too much of a hassle than I will be happy!!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/54847-pulsar-gti-r/#findComment-1073095
Share on other sites

If you only want 12s its too easy.

Dogbox PPG is another one...

IF you wanted 12s, get a full exhaust (decent dump pipe is important), EBC (1 bar), decent intake cold air/pod filter, and a tune. That should give you enough power to run 12s all day. I know guys who run low 12s on the standard 14" wheels/tyres with that combo, freaky quick. All you need is a huge launch. Can kill boxes but how often would you do it...

GTiR motor is good SR. I went to GTR because it was the car I've always wanted and I found one which stood out so I had to have it. Still paying the price lol

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/54847-pulsar-gti-r/#findComment-1073101
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I came here to note that is a zener diode too base on the info there. Based on that, I'd also be suspicious that replacing it, and it's likely to do the same. A lot of use cases will see it used as either voltage protection, or to create a cheap but relatively stable fixed voltage supply. That would mean it has seen more voltage than it should, and has gone into voltage melt down. If there is something else in the circuit dumping out higher than it should voltages, that needs to be found too. It's quite likely they're trying to use the Zener to limit the voltage that is hitting through to the transistor beside it, so what ever goes to the zener is likely a signal, and they're using the transistor in that circuit to amplify it. Especially as it seems they've also got a capacitor across the zener. Looks like there is meant to be something "noisy" to that zener, and what ever it was, had a melt down. Looking at that picture, it also looks like there's some solder joints that really need redoing, and it might be worth having the whole board properly inspected.  Unfortunately, without being able to stick a multimeter on it, and start tracing it all out, I'm pretty much at a loss now to help. I don't even believe I have a climate control board from an R33 around here to pull apart and see if any of the circuit appears similar to give some ideas.
    • Nah - but you won't find anything on dismantling the seats in any such thing anyway.
    • Could be. Could also be that they sit around broken more. To be fair, you almost never see one driving around. I see more R chassis GTRs than the Renault ones.
    • Yeah. Nah. This is why I said My bold for my double emphasis. We're not talking about cars tuned to the edge of det here. We're talking about normal cars. Flame propagation speed and the amount of energy required to ignite the fuel are not significant factors when running at 1500-4000 rpm, and medium to light loads, like nearly every car on the road (except twin cab utes which are driven at 6k and 100% load all the time). There is no shortage of ignition energy available in any petrol engine. If there was, we'd all be in deep shit. The calorific value, on a volume basis, is significantly different, between 98 and 91, and that turns up immediately in consumption numbers. You can see the signal easily if you control for the other variables well enough, and/or collect enough stats. As to not seeing any benefit - we had a couple of EF and EL Falcons in the company fleet back in the late 90s and early 2000s. The EEC IV ECU in those things was particularly good at adding in timing as soon as knock headroom improved, which typically came from putting in some 95 or 98. The responsiveness and power improved noticeably, and the fuel consumption dropped considerably, just from going to 95. Less delta from there to 98 - almost not noticeable, compared to the big differences seen between 91 and 95. Way back in the day, when supermarkets first started selling fuel from their own stations, I did thousands of km in FNQ in a small Toyota. I can't remember if it was a Starlet or an early Yaris. Anyway - the supermarket servos were bringing in cheap fuel from Indonesia, and the other servos were still using locally refined gear. The fuel consumption was typically at least 5%, often as much as 8% worse on the Indo shit, presumably because they had a lot more oxygenated component in the brew, and were probably barely meeting the octane spec. Around the same time or maybe a bit later (like 25 years ago), I could tell the difference between Shell 98 and BP 98, and typically preferred to only use Shell then because the Skyline ran so much better on it. Years later I found the realtionship between them had swapped, as a consequence of yet more refinery closures. So I've only used BP 98 since. Although, I must say that I could not fault the odd tank of United 98 that I've run. It's probably the same stuff. It is also very important to remember that these findings are often dependent on region. With most of the refineries in Oz now dead, there's less variability in local stuff, and he majority of our fuels are not even refined here any more anyway. It probably depends more on which SE Asian refinery is currently cheapest to operate.
    • You don't have an R34 service manual for the body do you? Have found plenty for the engine and drivetrain but nothing else
×
×
  • Create New...