Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Guys the 2530 is a tarted up Garrett GT28RS and the GTRS is a tarted up Garrett GT2871R . Search ATP Turbo.com for details , Brett at GCG should be able to import and emulate the things for nothing like $4000 . ATP will also sell either cartrige seperatly for under $1000 US . For the record the GT28RS comes with a .86 AR turbine housing which is essential for 2 liters and up . The only problem is I'm not sure if Garrett or HKS make a T3 flanged .86 housing . Brett is having adapters made up and the combination will work heaps better than the .64AR . Std dump wont fit though SR20DET ones will . Cheers A .

  • Replies 57
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

After reading lots and speaking with people, I decided on one step up from the 2530 being the 2535 on my RB25. It certainly doesn't make 511rwps or even 438rwhp for that matter but the best i've seen out of it is 339rwhp @ 16psi and more recently, i've had it "street" tuned at only 12psi for 300 rwhp. Now I can tell you 220rwkw in any gear is a lot of fun. I've not run the track yet but I'd hope for low 13/high 12 and if Sly33's results are anything to go by, it should do it. Given that 12psi is hardly in the HKS 2535's efficiency range, it's safe to say that if I were to wind the boost up and get it retuned, everyday 250rwkw would be easy. Unfortunately for me, the fuel pump and my injectors don't keep up with that power for the moment so I've left it at 12psi.

The 2530, 2535 and even the 2540 are not big turbos. If you're chasing the big numbers, don't get one. If you're after quick response, good street power and about 250rwkw, buy one and be happy ;)

339rwhp@16psi

Would it be necessary to lower compression at that ammount of boost? or can the RB25 handle a bit more?

I know it depends on the tuning, but just wondering what kind of boost people with GT2530/35/40 are running to make max power with standard compression

If anyone is after a HKS turbo upgrade get the GT-RS! my mate has this installed (at BD4's) and its nuts! I will have mine on in a weeks time just labour at the moment. The gt-rs is honestly nothing short of nutz! 1st to 4th gear is just wheelspin without dumping clutch, no lag, consistent power curve. The car really get's up and goes. I will make a thread on this in the coming week and show all the results. So far i highly reccomend it!

339rwhp@16psi

Would it be necessary to lower compression at that ammount of boost? or can the RB25 handle a bit more?

I know it depends on the tuning, but just wondering what kind of boost people with GT2530/35/40 are running to make max power with standard compression

To be quite honest, I wouldn't know. I've got a fully rebuilt RB25 with forged pistons so I don't have to worry quite as much. Mine happily boosted away on 16psi but my PFC flashes up 100% duty cycle on my injectors which is why my street tune is back to 12psi. Once the injectors get upgraded and the fuel pump upgraded, i'll probably screw 18psi into it as that's where these turbo's like to operate :) (approx 1.2bar)

If anyone is after a HKS turbo upgrade get the GT-RS!

Do these come in T3 flange? I thought they were only GT25?

GT-RS has same compressor housing and turbine wheel as GT2535 and GT2540 but a bit larger trim if i'm not mistaken. Although output on GTRS is 400 vs 340 and 350 on the 2535 and 2540 respectively. All are slightly larger than 2530 which is what this thread was about in the first place.

I am pretty much in the same boat at the moment, and am not too sure that I can afford a reasonably larger than stock turbo - let alone the supporting mods right now.

I have been doing some research, and it LOOKS to me based on the comments throughout here on GT2530s etc that a TD05-big 16G from a Mitsubishi EVO3 (and some others) would do a similar job. They seem to be good for the 340-380hp range, depending on where you look and how you set it up. I've actually not found any solid evidence of anyone running one on an RB motor, especially RB25DET. Does anyone have any thoughts on this?

I realise I'd need to do some mods to use it - but considering I can get one for $500-600 its not too bad :)

Mitsi turbos

339rwhp@16psi

Would it be necessary to lower compression at that ammount of boost? or can the RB25 handle a bit more?

I know it depends on the tuning, but just wondering what kind of boost people with GT2530/35/40 are running to make max power with standard compression

Well when i first got my car back, it had been tuned to be safe at 1.39bar! Straight away i voiced my concern to my tuner but he assured me its safe. On cold nights i regularly see 1.39bar. I have a completely unopened motor with the stock 9:1 compression. I do get the occasional knock if the fuel is bad. Many would say thats excessive, and id even agree with them! But so far its been fine, and as i plan to rebuild the motor soon anyway it doesnt bother me. So going on how my motor handles it, id be saying 1.2bar with good tuning should be fine on a "healthy" motor, although for peace of mind go the head gasket and 8.5:1 comp.

as for the GT-RS, its a newer turbo rated higher than the 2530/35/40 and designed to fill the power/response gap in the old GT series, so i dont doubt it'd be the pick of the bunch, but as with every other mod, it depends on how much you want to pay, as the old GT25 series can be had fairly cheap even brand new.

What are they croat.The 400ps rated gtrs with t3 flange and all acessories For the gts-t $2564.55 from nengun.

If i were to run a gtrs turbo and wanted 230 rwkw,for now untill i had enuff money for a rebuild on the engine,what psi would it be running at.Knowing that i have all the supporting hardware bar turbo and forged bottom end.

I think these turbos run up to 300rwkw.If i am correct about what a ps rating is.

Can someone explain to me what a ps rating is.

Trust33 ps means "power stroke" its approximately 400hp rated (thats what i have been told). The turbo come with all accessories you need to fit it to your gtst, gaskets, lines, elbow etc... I have the turbo and have standard bottom end, and so does my mate. He runs 1.3 bar all day every day, i will run around 1 bar (just to keep things safe). At 1 bar i am expecing around 240 rwkw. I think this turbo can run up to 300rwkw but u will need forged internals and a lot of boost, cams etc... Trust33 why rebuild the engine if you dont need to, just wait till it dies.

Bolts up easy to stock manifold and dump (i will find out for myself next few days). I think the gt-rs will be too small a turbo for an rb30, better off going a 2835. My oppinion...

Thought the gtrs was a bigger turbo - people seem to be getting more power from these than 2835??!!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • Oil change does not trigger code 21. Code 21 is for coilpacks primary side connection. You can try to clear the code with a battery disconnect, hold down the brake pedal to drain capacitors through the brake lights with the ignition on for 10-15 seconds before you reconnect the battery. I have seen R35 coil conversion permanently cause this code with no ill effects so it might be the resistance it wants to see isn't quite right on one or more coilpacks. Could be inside the ECU, could be the harness, could be a coil. You can test it all if you want or just ignore until the car actually starts misfiring.
    • I forgot you have a Nistune ECU. Use Nistune to do all the tests I mentioned instead of faffing with 30+ year old electrical connectors. You can read MAF volts off that too, there are reference values in the service manual to tell you roughly what it should be in different conditions.
    • No. I think it might be the AFM. Hence the use of the terms "swaptronics", which implies the use of swapping out electronics for the purpose of diagnosis. It's about the only way to prove that a small/niggling/whatever problem with an AFM or a CAS or similar is actually caused by that AFM/CAS/whatever. A known good item swapped in that still gives the same problem is likely to be caused somewhere else. They're all the same. Spraying AFMs with cleaner is an each way bet between cleaning it and f**king it.
    • Oh wow! This might actually work amazingly. Do you know the ratio of the diff? I was told the only thing you need to make sure of is if the front & rear diff ratios are the same. Ours is a 4.083 Thanks!
    • You think its the AFM? I know its a common issues on R32s. I find it coincidental how this issue raised right after cleaning the fuel system. As everything except the fuel system was fine before. I tried running it with the IACV unplugged but did not notice a difference and still stalled. However, the RPM gauge is not in the cluster right now, so I will need to connect the laptop again and use Nistune to check the RPM. I will check this weekend.
×
×
  • Create New...