Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Agree'd.. Its got nothing to do with the nylon compressor wheel.

EDIT: And they don't fail that often.. Sure they are a little more easier to break than the RB25 turbo. Its the same as how the RB25 turbo is easier to break than the RB20 turbo.

  • 2 weeks later...

The late model R34 GT-t (Sept. 2000 ~) have a different turbo than the earlier R34s.

There are actually 6 different turbos that came on the GT-t, depending on the year and transmission. Manual and automatic cars have different part numbers.

The early production 98 ~ 99 cars have a composite compressor wheel and ceramic turbine.

The mid production cars (early 99 ~ Aug 2000) have metal compressor wheels and ceramic turbines.

And finally the late production cars (Sept. 2000 onward) sometimes referred to as Series II have a still different turbo. These “Series II” cars have a Garret T25 with metal compressor and steel turbine.

They have awesome spool up, mine runs about 90kPa (stock boost level) and is at full tilt by about 2800rpm. I am getting ready to put an HKS upgraded actuator on it in the hopes that it will hold full boost to redline. They seem to loose a bit of boost after 6000rpm.

Interesting that you say the turbos are different for different transmissions.  Do you know what the differences are?

 

I have a auto/tiptronic so I'm curious. (7/99)

You know I really don’t know what the difference is between them. My guess would be turbine trim or housing A/R. I have never seen any of the early or mid production turbos up close.

I did find the production year stats though.

Early: 07/98 ~ 10/99

Mid: 10/99 ~ 08/00

Late: 09/00 ~ 06/01

My earlier figures were a bit off sorry bout that.

This site is great for finding out the differences between the R34 series.

http://2style.net/r34sedan/

it's in Japanese btw, so some of you will probably have to use the Babbling fish.

EDIT:

If you're having trouble finding the differences section, it's here -

http://2style.net/r34sedan/hikaku/hikakutop.htm

This site is great for finding out the differences between the R34 series.

http://2style.net/r34sedan/

it's in Japanese btw, so some of you will probably have to use the Babbling fish.

EDIT:

If you're having trouble finding the differences section, it's here -  

http://2style.net/r34sedan/hikaku/hikakutop.htm

Great site but a couple things are a bit off.

Probably just quirks in Nissan's production process, even my car has a couple odd-ball parts that supposedly came on earlier cars.

Yeah I think they sometimes experiment on batches of cars. e.g. the R33s - the series 1.5s are a bit of a lucky dip in what you get out of the series 2 parts bin.

That site is for sedans, not coupes, so that might explain some of the differences. That said, the site probably has quite a few mistakes.

  • 3 weeks later...

I own a 00/08 GTXT. Is there any easy way to find out whether my turbo has metal/metal and ball bearing fitted??

I have tried to use the Fast Program but can't seem to find the details. If you can shed some light on the Fast program, it would be appreciated too.

If it's any help my car is ER34-040586.

Thanks in advance.

Great site but a couple things are a bit off.

Probably just quirks in Nissan's production process, even my car has a couple odd-ball parts that supposedly came on earlier cars.

I own a 00/08 GTXT. Is there any easy way to find out whether my turbo has metal/metal and ball bearing fitted??

I have tried to use the Fast Program but can't seem to find the details. If you can shed some light on the Fast program, it would be appreciated too.

If it's any help my car is ER34-040586.

Thanks in advance.

The easy way to tell if you have a “Series II” turbo with steel turbine is look at it.

If the compressor housing has “Garrett” cast into it you have the steel turbine, if is has “NISSAN” cast into it you have a ceramic turbine.

For what it is worth I have never seen a late model 25GT-t (new style front bumper and silver faced speedo cluster) that did not come with a steel turbine.

One thing I don’t know is if they are ball bearing, I doubt it but you never know. I can’t find any documentation on it.

I will check your chassis number tonight on FAST to double-check.

I think they will all be ball bearing.

Thanks for your info, eharrald and Abo Bob. I will have a closer look at the turbo to check for the Garrett stamp.

It would be great to find out via the Fast Program. If you do find any info in FAST I would be interested to know exactly how you found it; what steps you went to through to extract the details.

Thanks again.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Don't even try to run it on the stock ECU if you're going to have the boost controller bring boost above ~10 psi. I've already told you that. If you use the Nistune ECU, you will need to CAREFULLY read the available documentation for Neo tuning, and read some threads on the Nistune forums, to discover the various things you have to do to prevent the ECU from going bananas when the boost is too high. The is a table associated with th boost sensor that must be modified to prevent it from shitting the bed. This is just one of the things that you will need to do to the tune in Nistune, because the Neo turbo ECU will be expecting to see a number of things (such as the TCS) that are not there, and you have to block the DTCs on those. It is totally not surprising to me that you are having the problems that you are, but the solutions to these problems have been known for >15 years. So just get it done.
    • Hi. Sry iam not a mechanic and iam not at the car atm so i dont know 100% but they told they measure those and even try to change those. AFM they have two. Coils are new a they have my old one too. Plugs too. ECU...we have 25 NEO stock and Nistune 25 NEO.   But i dont know if any one those could be the problem and why/if/what can cause this, Only thing they did not check is fuel...but that walbro 255 is new(like 1,5 years)... That fuel pressure gauge idk...but i let them know Any suggestions?   EDIT: how can they know if it is like you say he ECU pull power when it reaches a specific boost level that is too high? Tha car has boost controler
    • Can you clarify what you mean by boost cut, do you mean it misfires both when under load (driving) and when stationary and out of gear? Or does the ECU pull power when it reaches a specific boost level that is too high (boost control issue)? Does it occur at idle with no throttle? When you say "the ECU is OK", what ECU is it and why do you think it is OK? Have you used the NEO ECU, and if so do you have a MAP sensor attached? Same for the AFM, why do you think it is OK? Do you have any way to put a fuel pressure gauge on it (even just a mechanical one between the fuel filter and fuel rail)?
    • Hi.. Just another problem. So maybe you can help. I(my mechanic) done swap from my RB20DE NEO to RB25DET NEO. Everything is OK but we have a boost cut. Coils/Plugs are ok...AFM is ok. ECU is ok. I have Walbro 255 but it "changed" sound few months ago(you can hear it ouside) you did not hear that when it was new(maybe faulty?) Sooo...what now? What can cause this boost cut? It is even when you standing still...
×
×
  • Create New...