Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Just came off the dyno tuning my R33 with a HKS 2530 with mixed results.

Firstly peak power we got was 220rwkw @ 13.8psi. A good result considering the boost we could run. Now the problems!! (Standard turbo i was getting 207rwkw with exactly the same setup)

1) Running a HKS actuator, we are still loosing a shit load of boost up high. That power run of 13.8 dropped down to 9.2 at 6400rpm where we got max power. I had the bleed valve nearly turned off on this run, so im going to take it off and run no bleed valve just too see if there is a leak.

2) Secondly, we couldnt run anymore boost as we got savage missfires at 4500rpm on every run. So the only way to eliminate the missfires was too reduce boost :D . I wasnt impressed as earlier i was running near 17psi, and could feel the stronger low down torque before the missfires at 4500rpm. Air Fuel ratios where spot on, so the missfire is not fuel related.

3) Missfires, this is interesting, i gapped new plugs the night before to .66 so it cant be the plugs. Now im only running a SAFC 2 for tuning, so either

a) The standard ECU is giving me too much timing at the 4500rpm mark where max boost is reached? But why doesnt it ping then? I am showing or hearing no detenation at this point. And it doesnt ping up high either.

B) Coil packs, i am thinking i have weak coils and the spark is being blown out by the max boost at this point?

Overall, im sort of happy with the result as the top feels much stronger, but i know with some extra boost there is alot more left in it.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/55597-hks-2530-dyno-results/
Share on other sites

You could try upping the preload on the actuator by using washers or redrilling the brackets using Joels method. However im not sure which method will work on your 2530. I thought the HKS actuators were 0.8bar std?

However I dont know how well the 2530 will work above 1 bar on your engine, as its more of a turbo suited to a 2L instead of a 2.5L so it'll be flowing alot more at 1bar on an RB25 vs an SR20 for example. Maybe this might explain the boost drop at higher RPM?

What plugs do you have? 0.66 is a pretty small gap already. Hmmm...

Good to see you got a power gain :) What injectors/fuel pump are you running with it?

The missfiring couldn't at all be a coil or something getting on a bit, and only really showing itself now its actually really having to work?

What is your impression on the road of the 2530 vs. stock R33 turbo? Any more lag etc? It looks like the turbo drops off more than the stocker!!!

I can adjust the preload of the actuator where i want, but still its going to have that midrange peak of boost.

Lithium,

Down low it is virtually eye for eye with the stock turbo, above 5000rpm is where it improves. But, when running 17psi in earlier testing, midrange before 4500rpm was pulling like a train. At 100k in 4th, you could just boot it and it would take off, nice!!

Good to see you got a power gain :)   What injectors/fuel pump are you running with it?  

The missfiring couldn't at all be a coil or something getting on a bit, and only really showing itself now its actually really having to work?

What is your impression on the road of the 2530 vs. stock R33 turbo?  Any more lag etc?   It looks like the turbo drops off more than the stocker!!!

No alterations to the fuel system as yet.

Cool - nice work, my turbo failed a couple of weeks ago and I am pondering whether to replace it with a stock or upgrade - but wasn't totally sure HOW much I'd have to change for an upgrade. Sounds like 2530(ish) sizing wouldn't be too hard on it.

It'll be interesting to see how you go at the drags with the new found power and torque :)

Good power. I got exactly the same power 220rwkw (295rwhp) at 11.5 psi on my 2535 on my RB25 with both my PFC tune and my S-AFCII tune. Although the PFC tune has a lot better AFR's than my S-AFCII tune. I would think that given the 2535 is slightly bigger, that it would make sense that my power was achieved at 2psi less than yours (not that 2psi is a lot!!)

I'm just waiting on getting bigger injectors before I crank my boost upwards of a bar! :burnout: :)

Enjoy!

Robo's, all your problems, ive been there and done that.

Boost will ALWAYS drop off at the top end, giving you a lowish peak power. 2530 is a bit small for top end on a 25. The comp wheels spins out of efficiency.

Id bet its a coil pack causing the misfire. I had exactly the same problem when setting mine up and trying to run more boost. Itd run fine but as soon as you hit boost it just broke down. changed a pack and all was good. 5 months later, another pack went. this time i just wrapped it in electrical tape and its all good. The problem is the coil pack housing gets hairline cracks and arcs out. easy to fix. i can run up to 1.4 bar (still dropping off at top) with no problems. Just check your using good correct plugs, and set at 0.8mm gap. im using iridiums.

The other thing i had to change was the AFM. stock one would max out easily with the increased air flow from the new turbo, giving a coil pack-like missfire, but not as severe.

any questions just let me know, ive spent a lot of time playing with this turbo! I know what you mean about the increased midrange with more boost, mine lights up second easily.

I dont mind it dropping off boost up top if i can get that extra mid range urge. I felt it and i like it, but i cant live with it missing at 4500rpm. It does it every single time. Even with the stock turbo it would miss at 4500 at 14psi, so we moved it back to 13psi.

What did you do to fix your coil packs? Silicon or Araldite?

Ideally, my spark plug is too small at .66, to me this is only a bandaid fix to eliminate the miss, so i would like at least a 0.8 gap as this is an ideal gap for performance.

pull out your packs and inspect really carefully, use a magnifying glass maybe, and youll probably find the hairline crack/cracks. I simply wraped insulating electrical tape around the coil pack housing, covering the crack. This will do until i get new coils, its been fine for a couple of months now!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...