Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

all the machining, painting, various bits and pieces etc and the Arias pistons set me back about $4000... I had my gf's dad who has his own workshop take out the motor, strip it and put it back in again, with some help from me... so I saved $$ on labour

It will go on the dyno soon, just to check a/f ratios etc... I won't be doing a power run for at least 1000km...

my mechanic has layed down the law...

*soup nazi voice* "...no boost for you!"

4k is around the mark.

I had my RB30 bottom end rebuilt with 87mm forged pistons, balanced to 1gm, blueprinted, multilayer steel headgasket & head bolted on for $3700.

I had it built up with another RB30DET so it saved some $$ in the setting up of machines, tools etc. It saved myself around $500.

The blueprinting was done for a carton of crownies and some company's time :)

The head cost me another $1100 to rebuild, port & polish.

lol..

Its taken me almost 2 years to get my RB30DET in from the day I first bought the rb30E series 2 NA block.

It was easier than I expected..

Only mods really required were the engine mounts & Dump pipe..

Thats unless you use a Greedy RB25 plenum then it all bolts in no problemo.

RB25DET is a good motor. :D

If I had a RB25DET I probably wouldn't go the RB30DET to be honests.

I would have looked at 87mm pistons, GTR crank & rods.

But being a R32 owner I was cursed with the RB20DET... lol :D

Very clean looking engine.

Stock turbo or have you upgraded that also?

yeah they did a good job, from what I can tell...

just the stock turbo went back on, its going to be a slow build up now... I had a cooler and a few other bits and pieces that were going on the old engine, but had to cancel my orders to finance the rebuild...

It all comes down to $$$ I could have gone into debt to get more goodies but wasn't that keen to pimp myself... yet... :boobies2:

lol..

Its taken me almost 2 years to get my RB30DET in from the day I first bought the rb30E series 2 NA block.

It was easier than I expected..

Only mods really required were the engine mounts & Dump pipe..

Thats unless you use a Greedy RB25 plenum then it all bolts in no problemo.

RB25DET is a good motor. ;)

If I had a RB25DET I probably wouldn't go the RB30DET to be honests.

I would have looked at 87mm pistons, GTR crank & rods.

But being a R32 owner I was cursed with the RB20DET... lol :rolleyes:

the rb20det is NOT a curse! ;)

on and nice looking engine, Nick - its great to have you back on the road...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Oil change does not trigger code 21. Code 21 is for coilpacks primary side connection. You can try to clear the code with a battery disconnect, hold down the brake pedal to drain capacitors through the brake lights with the ignition on for 10-15 seconds before you reconnect the battery. I have seen R35 coil conversion permanently cause this code with no ill effects so it might be the resistance it wants to see isn't quite right on one or more coilpacks. Could be inside the ECU, could be the harness, could be a coil. You can test it all if you want or just ignore until the car actually starts misfiring.
    • I forgot you have a Nistune ECU. Use Nistune to do all the tests I mentioned instead of faffing with 30+ year old electrical connectors. You can read MAF volts off that too, there are reference values in the service manual to tell you roughly what it should be in different conditions.
    • No. I think it might be the AFM. Hence the use of the terms "swaptronics", which implies the use of swapping out electronics for the purpose of diagnosis. It's about the only way to prove that a small/niggling/whatever problem with an AFM or a CAS or similar is actually caused by that AFM/CAS/whatever. A known good item swapped in that still gives the same problem is likely to be caused somewhere else. They're all the same. Spraying AFMs with cleaner is an each way bet between cleaning it and f**king it.
    • Oh wow! This might actually work amazingly. Do you know the ratio of the diff? I was told the only thing you need to make sure of is if the front & rear diff ratios are the same. Ours is a 4.083 Thanks!
    • You think its the AFM? I know its a common issues on R32s. I find it coincidental how this issue raised right after cleaning the fuel system. As everything except the fuel system was fine before. I tried running it with the IACV unplugged but did not notice a difference and still stalled. However, the RPM gauge is not in the cluster right now, so I will need to connect the laptop again and use Nistune to check the RPM. I will check this weekend.
×
×
  • Create New...