Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Guys,

Yesterday I arrived at a mates house and when it was time to leave my car wouldnt start! I know for sure its not the battery as it is a few weeks old, all fuses where checked and are ok, so I am basically stumped for ideas.

The RACV guy had no clue, and they wouldn't tow my car coz they think my front bar is too low.

All I know about the problem is: I have a bosch 044 pump in the boot and when I turn the ignition on it makes a noise. That isnt happening at all.

I thought maybe my ecu was stuffed although i tested it on a mates car and its fine. I do believe maybe its a wire in the loom although im no good with that area of the car.

If you guys have any idea on what it is to assist me in any way please post on here, or you can call me on 0422199229 anytime.

Thanks

Mark

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/55828-urgent-help-needed/
Share on other sites

Is the pump internal or external?

I to have a bosche 044 and the priming sound can not be missed as it is sooo loud, especially when it is external. If external you need to check that the pump is getting power and signal from your ecu, insure that the terminals are tight. The car will always crank even though there is no fuel.

Hi Guys,

I need some input, my car is now running!!!

The ecu was placed back with the wires nice and firm, although i did fiddle with the two wires off the fuel pump.

Im not sure what the problem was and I don't know what to do to ensure it doesnt happen again!

thanks

Mark

Yeah very luck although im worried it may happen again.

I believe it could be a loose wire in the ecu loom, although the problem was that the fuel pumps wernt getting any fuel, so maybe the connections on my pump in the boot got a bit corroded being exposed in the pannel shop for so long.

But then yet again i do have the factory pump which should of started any way.

I don't know what to do :cheers:

i'd say loose wire near the fuel pump, check the lines with a multimeter and prober to see if you're getting positive and negative signals all the way down the wire... well you'll probably have to wait till it stops again to do that.

Fuel pump could be jammed? one time my car was cranking but not starting. Before this the car would sometimes cut out and stall while driving (great fun because you lose the power steering + brakes). Called RACV, guy removed a fuse for something to bypass and went under the car and thumped the fuel pump. The car then started up. I guess if you aren't getting cut outs when driving its probably not the pump at fault but a connection? Good luck with it.

Thats ok im not getting cut outs, I think its a loose wire on the fuel pump although it also could be a bad earth for the ecu. At least now if it happens again I will know what to check out.

Thankyou kindly for the advise guys!

I really appreciate it...

Take care

Mark :)

Hi Alan

that would be wonderful, I really appreciate the offer.

I live in Berwick which is about 30-40mins from the city.

That would be really nice of you if you could do so, although I would have to reimburse you for petrol and effort comming down to check.

take it easy

Mark

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I sense an out of control build thread coming up lololol. That 450kW goal will end up being 600 to 700kW LOL.
    • Nice, thanks for sharing your progress....that's a pretty long list you are putting into it!
    • Decided to upgrade my pressurised plastic coolant expansion tank for a fancy pants alloy version The OEM versions can get brittle, even the new plastic one I got when I first got the car is a starting to show signs of "stress" I wasn't cheap, but it is basically unbreakable
    • Morning all, I have an RB25DET Neo that's in need of a rebuild. Will need new pistons etc due to detonation damage. Would anyone be able to recommend a shop in Southeast Queensland who I could bring my long motor to for a rebuild? Just want someone who knows RBs and whos built a bunch of them before. TLDR - recommended engine shops for RB rebuild.
    • Gday Thought it was about time I started a build thread! As expected this project has snowballed into a huge financial liability, but unless you’re strong willed and responsible, it’s not a surprise. Background -  My first turbo car was an R32 GTS-4, got my full license and then totalled my Au Falcon a week later, so while trying to sell my RMZ450 dirtbike to buy another car a bloke offered to swap the R32 which at the time I felt like I was ripped off but looking back and seeing prices of those now ($40kish) it was a good deal, I didn’t know enough about these cars to appreciate what I had so sold it before the RB20 blew up. Between here and there, out of 12 cars I’ve owned the note worthy ones are a V8 Lexus SC400 (soarer), a couple of XR6 Turbos and my beloved S15 which I had for about 3 years, picked it up for $12500, repairable write off but she was fine, gun metal grey/pewter and bone stock/unmolested until I got my hands on it. Ended up spending about the value of the car and 280kw, 2 demerit points by the time I got defected and sold it for $14500 (also $40kish in today’s market, rip) Fast forward to the present day, I’m in a much better position financially and daily an MQ Triton (great cars, pipe down Ranger Bois), I cruised marketplace and car sales for a few months looking for another R32, the best deal I could find was an absolute rust bucket half finished project for $12000, until this R33 popped up in Port Macquarie for $18k - unregistered and barely running but decent shape, kept an eye on it for a few weeks and the price steadily dropped, $16k then $15k then $14k, that was the point where I was like shit someone’s gonna snatch this up! It was owned by a young bloke who had big plans but him and his missus just had a baby so smartest move financially for them but big gain for me. So 2 days later I’m towing a car trailer to pick this thing up. Roughly 2 weeks and $3500 later I’m cruising around Newcastle in my beat up R33 all smiles and dose noises! It only needed some basic shit to get it going, coil packs and air flow meter, electrical stuff and all fluids changed, 158k kms and running pretty good, nice smooth engine after oil and coolant flush - when I say coolant I mean it had been filled up with tap water, every gallery and heater element was filled with rust, 8-9 flushes later and still had brown liquid coming out but she’ll be right. The car was painted R34 Bayside Blue at some point but whether it was a cheap job or just not looked after is anyone’s guess, clear coat flaking like sausage roll.  Was rethinking my choices and contemplating life, had it up for sale for $22k - still cheaper than any registered R33 but got little interest, next minute I had an opportunity at work - 6 months overseas for good money, so that was a no brainer, fast forward again and here we are with a 50% finished project. Current Mods - 200ish KW according to butt dyno Was tuned with Apexi PowerFC EBC (old school Greddy Profec)  Stock turbo (more shaft play than a Tinder date gone right) 3inch turbo back Varex muffler  Aftermarket injectors of mystery size, Power FC showed 36% duty cycle at full boost so not behd good size Someone had good intentions but stuck with the stock R33 MAF so we had misfires at 6000rpm due to the MAF hitting 5.2V So far I’ve redone the entire interior with carpet form Car Mats Direct, new Seats and steering wheel from Autotechnica, also sound system by Autobarn (mainly Kicker) Also MCA pro comfort coil overs - Hands down best purchase yet, worlds of improvement over the tired 30yrold shocks Goals - 450kw/600hp on flex tune New paint job - Midnight Purple 2 Engine is at the shop getting rebuilt with forged rods a pistons, new valves and springs, ATI Harmonic balancer, Aeroflow 7.5L sump, rear head drain and oil restrictors as per oil control thread* and cam covers modded for larger breathers, other stuff I can’t recall of the top of my head Parts purchased and to be installed once the engine is done -  Engine loom from Wiring Specialties including these options: Haltech Nexus S3 R35 Coil pack conversion  PRP Dual Trigger kit Fan controller  Other Parts -  262 Kelford Cams Turbo - Hypergear ATR43SS3-ProS with T51R mod (whistly boi) 6 boost manifold (high mount) 50mm Turbosmart Pro gate (plumbed back for legal reasons) HKS Super Turbo Exhaust with High Flow Cat Custom 3.5inch dump and front pipe 1500cc Bosch injectors  Fuel Pump walbro 525 Haltech MAP and IAT sensors Haltech Flex Sensor Fenix Radiator with dual thermo fans LS1 Alternator Kit Oil Filter Relocation from EFI solutions and Cooling pro oil cooler Many other things sitting in my garage waiting for that engine to come back. Progress pics to follow -  
×
×
  • Create New...