Jump to content
SAU Community

Os Giken 3 Litre Install Help !!

DICKY

By DICKY,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

DICKY Enthusiast

DICKY

Posted
Posted

After many months my giken rb 30 is ready to go into the 'hole' trouble is that due to this engine being taller that stock the inlet manifold/surge tank does not clear the clutch master cylinder !

does anybody have pics of keir wilsons 'set up' or have a contact for him, or has anyone got a good solution to this problem ????????????????

thanks

John.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/55846-os-giken-3-litre-install-help/
Share on other sites
Fitzpatrick Speed Works Mentor

Fitzpatrick Speed Works

Posted
Posted

i have the same problem dicky with my rb30 in my GTR as well.

What i have done is ditched the booster, got a slave cylinder off a r32 gts-t, and also the pedal box, this is important as the gtr pedal box uses the studs coming off the booster but with the new set up its reverse the studs come off the gts-t pedal box... Next what you need to do is take apart the pedal box and swap pedal arms, ie. you need the gtr pedal arm in the gtst pedal assembly.. Next there is a metal stopper on the gtr pedal arm that stop it coming foword too far, you need to grind that off and recess a little notch so it can come foword alot further.

Next the thread rod that is your adjustment needs to be cut down to nearly wear the thead ends then more thread has to be tappep down the rod, this is so it doesnt hit the back of the pedal arm and you still have adjustment..

Next you need to elongate the pin hole that holds the slave cylinder on to the pedal arm by about half a hole, again to avoid the back of pedle arm fouling on the threaded rod. The slave cylinder on the engine side also needs to be spaced foward 5mm, you can do it with washers but i made an aluminium plate so its a bit more solid and wont pivot. I then air hacksawed a little semi circle in the lip that hangs out of the firewall and you can get to the resevoir nicely with out needing a custon resevoir.

Thats basically it, if you wanna ask any questions please do, its a pain of a job took me around 3-4 hours.

PS lube up the rubber bush when you take the pedal arm out to stop future skweeks.

GTR-Ben Proficient

GTR-Ben

Posted
Posted

We don't need to do it that way.. just watch :)

You do need to drill 2 holes for the master cylinder however as the holes are in the opposite position.

We have a nice remote resevoir, so no cutting or grinding anything.. and making the rod to the correct length is simple, done it a lot.

Relax.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • funkymonkey
      Jacks that fit under GTR lips that can reach the subframe?

      By funkymonkey · Posted

      I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • Duncan
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Duncan · Posted

      You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...