Jump to content
SAU Community

AVCR Problems

MidnightGTR

By MidnightGTR,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

MidnightGTR Community Regular

MidnightGTR

Posted
Posted

A mate of mine installed my AVCR for me over the weekend and theres a few problems with it. Keep in mind I have NFI about these units or electronics inc voltages or the like.

The car is a 95 R33 GTR, the etc settings are CYL: 6, SPD: 4 and THR up. Im assuming thats right to start with.

1) The main problem is setting the different boost levels doesnt nothing, even with different dutys, going through the solenoid the most boost (and only boost is about .6bar) now I know this is likely to the solenoid not working by not having power, but when you turn the car to accessories you can hear the solenoid tick, however it doesnt make a noise during running, maybe its not getting enough volts?

2) The rpm monitor seems to be heaps out, I think it may be by a multiple? but changing the settings of # of cylinders and such doesnt seem to influence it, could it be a wiring problem?

3) What are the voltages supposed to be at? in the book they are both at 1.2v is that supposed to be correct, and at all times such as under load and etc? In mine they are both different, the solenoid one is about 1v when on accessories..

4) The injector duty monitor seems to spike for some reason (peak reading) when putting along at about 3000rpm the reading will be at 3% or so, but the peak load will say its spiked to 99.7% or something silly, could this be another wiring fault?

If anyone has any experience with this these things and could tell me what the problems might be id be very grateful

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/55874-avcr-problems/
Share on other sites
Roy Grand Master

Roy

Posted
Posted

As the plugs on the AVCR mean you cant wronlgy wire the solenoid, MAP and controller. Wiring the controller to the ECU could be a different story, but still you would have to assuem thats right unless he deadset wired up the wrong wires:(

1) The first thing id check is that the solenoid is plumbed up using the correct ports. One is used for internal gates, the other for external.

That checked make sure that the Solenoid lines are tapped into for both turbos, and the pressure signals to wastegates solenoid etc are correct. Otherwsie the opening closing wont be cheating/tricking the wastegate...sounds like this is most likely the prob.

2) from memory the rpm signal is form the ECU. So if its the right wire, then :confused: You are saying its heaps out. Does that mean at idle its saying 2500rpm, or at 5,000rpm it reads different to the tacho by a hundred rpm or so. My dash tacho doesnt read exactly as per my AVCR or PFC so thats not unusual, but you wouldnt expect big differences.

So out of that id be checking the controller is wired up to the right wire, but before that id go thru the settings and make sure they are all correct. I recall there was a setting for 6cyl (Check) etc, but ALSO Nissan ECUs??? Is that setting correct, also an arrow setting. Id tell you what i have but its a GTST and could be different. There is a manual on the US Apexi site you can download, once you read it the AVCR is a great thing as you can understand it:thumbsup:

3) If it helps ill actually check mine on the way to work and post up Mon night

4) Thats not unusual. Basically the things is opening/closing like crazy to try and bleed the pressure signal going to the wastegate/s. Now this is read off the MAP, so the fact that the duty cycle is changing is good. The fact that it doesnt appear to be changing boost suggests that the vacuum/pressure lines arent plumbed correctly (or as mentioned before the solenoid is using the wrong ports) and the wastegates are seeing the plenum pressure and opening, as opposed to the solnoid cheating them and getting them to open later.

Hope that helps a little...i suspect its the way you have the vacuum/pressure lines plumbed and a default setting in the controller for the Nissan ECU.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/55874-avcr-problems/#findComment-1086236
Share on other sites
MidnightGTR Community Regular

MidnightGTR

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Its a powerfc ecu.

Also I just remembered tonight he said you can only have RPM or injector monitoring, so I assume thats why the rpm isnt working correctly.

When he fitted it we left the ecu out, so tonight I put it back into the kickpanel and now the throttle monitoring isnt working, so im guessing the solder busted or something as it was working this afternoon :cheers:

The hoses should be ok as I had a simple bleed valve plumbed up before we installed the avcr, unless as you said we have it plumbed up the wrong way to the solenoid?

Maybe the unit isnt grounded/earthed properly hence the solenoid not working as it should?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/55874-avcr-problems/#findComment-1086497
Share on other sites
Roy Grand Master

Roy

Posted
Posted
Also I just remembered tonight he said you can only have RPM or injector monitoring, so I assume thats why the rpm isnt working correctly.

Mine is wired for rpm, so rely on my Pfc for injector duty cycle. I recall you could only use 1 of 2 features, i cant recall whether the other was rpm, if so that makes sense. I assume duty cycle is workimg then?

The hoses should be ok as I had a simple bleed valve plumbed up before we installed the avcr, unless as you said we have it plumbed up the wrong way to the solenoid?

Maybe the unit isnt grounded/earthed properly hence the solenoid not working as it should?

There are 3 ports, you only use two. S with internal gate turbos you need to use a specific port, it could be thi, or as you say plumbed up back to front?!?!

As for grounding the solenoid, its grounded through the controller via the plug, so doubt that would be the cause of the drama

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/55874-avcr-problems/#findComment-1086514
Share on other sites
Col-GTSX Grand Master

Col-GTSX

Posted
Posted

When i put mine in i had a slight RPM difference... AVC-R says 3000rpm dash says 3100rpm... I didnt worry about it too much... As for boost setting i remember a difference for twin turbo's. Its not the same setup if i remember correctlly. Also i found raising the duty cycle the boost bounced around too much... boost spiking was a problem so i was happy with a boost level of .75 and duty to 61% and i got 12psi constant...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/55874-avcr-problems/#findComment-1087110
Share on other sites
SKYL9 Community Regular

SKYL9

Posted
Posted

i had the same prob with not being able to change boost pressure and found out the guy that wired mine connected the ground wires to the mounting bolt of the ecu and not to the ground wire that goes to the ecu.. connected them up the right way and it worked fine

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/55874-avcr-problems/#findComment-1087131
Share on other sites
  • 3 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Duncan
      7 Speed Auto transmission fluid change (Skyline, Q50, Q60, Fuga, Q70, A62 Titan and probably heaps of others including Navara...)

      By Duncan · Posted

      I thought I'd do a write up on an auto transmission fluid change for a the nissan 7 speed Automatic. At some stage the genius engineers decided that the fluid in the trans was "for the life of the transmission", (which seems kind of self supporting to me) and removed the dip stick and fill tube (funnily enough there is still a casting for it). Anyway, for this job you do need 2 specialist tools in addition to regular hand tools, jack and good chassis stands. You need a way to pump fluid up to the transmission; I got one of these but there are plenty of other options: https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/364584087070 Don't trust the generic listing though, it does not come with the required adapter for the Nissan 7 Speed. You need one of these, can't do the job without it: https://navarapart.com.au/product/genuine-nissan-patrol-y62-d23-np300-navara-re7-dipstick-fill-connector1 You need a heap of compatible transmission oil. Could be Nissan, could be anything else rated for Nissan Matic S. You need at least 10 litres, I had 15 to give it a better flush... Also, you need some biiig oil catch trays, at least one of these, or bigger if possible (volume was fine, size was very marginal): https://autobarn.com.au/ab/Autobarn-Category/Tools-%26-Garage/Specialty-Tools/Oil-Service/Garage-Tough-Oil-Drain-Pan-Black-16L---GT1068/p/TO03191 Finally, a measuring jug is very useful if your pump does not have volumes marked on it, I got a 6l one: https://www.repco.com.au/oils-fluids/fluid-accessories/measuring-jugs/penrite-measuring-jug-6l-pmj006/p/A5322648 Oh, and gloves.....this stuff is horrible (not as bad as diff oil, but getting there) ....First, jack up your car.....
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      So I mentioned the apprentice, @LachyK helped take the bonnet off. We just undid the nuts on the hinges and unclipped the gas struts, then pulled the bonnet back a little as the front was catching on the front bar.  I had a good look at everything today and have removed the rams, repaired/reset the hinges and bolted it back together like it never happened. I'll do a separate write up on the repair, and I also removed the poppers from the Fuga today too to save grief down the road.....as said above it is at least $5k to repair retail. I'm also happier about my ability to prepare a race car, and less happy about Nis-nault's engineering (I can hear @GTSBoy sAfrican Americaning) because the top hose of the radiator didn't slip off.......it snapped clean off. By practice I put the hose clamp hard up against the flare on a neck to make it least likely to ever move (thanks @Neil!). I guess that puts a little more pressure on the end of the pipe as it is further away from the rad, but still, that is pretty shit. I've put it back on for now as there was a fair bit of neck still there, but obviously there is no lip on the neck any more so I don't think I'll track it again until I have a new rad. Speaking of which....more research required. It looks like Koyo makes a standard size radiator in ally which I'll grab in the meantime, but I really want something thicker so might have to go custom in the medium term (ouch) Coolant still needs a refill and I have the pressure tester on it over night, but other than a wash down of the engine bay it seems alright. And @MBS206 noted something noisy on the front of the engine and I think I agree....time for a new accessory belt and tensioners I think.
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      our good friends at nismo make a diff for it, I have one (and a spare housing to put the centre in) on the way. https://www.nismo.co.jp/products/web_catalogue/lsd/mechanical_lsd_v37.html AMS also make a helical one, but I prefer mechanical for track use in 2wd (I do run a quaife in the front, but not rear of the R32)
    • GTSBoy
      R33 persistent issues. P/steering and lag/misfire

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      What are we supposed to be seeing in the photo of the steering angle sensor? The outer housing doesn't turn, right? All the action is on the inside. The real test here is whether or not your car has had the steering put back together by a butcher. When the steering is centred (and we're not caring about the wheel too much here, we're talking about the front wheels, parallel, facing front) then you should have an absolutely even number of turns from centre to left lock and centre to right lock. If there is any difference at all then perhaps the thing has been put back together wrongly, either the steering wheel put on one spline (or more!) off, and the alignment bodged to straighteb the wheel, or the opposite where something silly was done underneath and the wheel put back on crooked to compensate. Nut there isn't actually much evidence that you have such a problem anyway. It is something you can easily measure and test for to find out though. My money is still on the HICAS CU not driving the PS solenoid with the proper PWM signal required to lighten the load at lower speed. If it were me, I would be putting either a multimeter or oscilloscope onto the solenoid terminals and taking it for a drive, looking for the voltage to change. The PWM signal is 0v, 12V, 0V, 12v with ...obviously...modulated pulse width. You should see that as an average voltage somewhere between 0V and 12V, and it should vary with speed. An handheld oscilloscope would be the better tool for this, because they are definitely good enough but there's no telling if any cheap shit multimeter that people have lying around are good enough. You can also directly interfere with the solenoid. If you wire up a little voltage divider with variable resistor on it, and hook the PS solenoid direct to 12V through that, you can manually adjust the voltage to the solenoid and you should be able to make it go ligheter and heavier. If you cannot, then the problem is either the solenoid itself dead, or your description of the steering being "tight" (which I have just been assuming you mean "heavy") could be that you have a mechanical problem in the steering and there is heaps of resistance to movement.
    • MissMintyR33
      R33 persistent issues. P/steering and lag/misfire

      By MissMintyR33 · Posted

      Little update  I have shimmed the solenoid on the rack today following Keep it Reets video on YouTube. However my steering is still tight. I have this showing on Nisscan, my steering angle sensor was the closest to 0 degrees (I could get it to 0 degrees by small little tweaks, but the angle was way off centre? I can't figure this out for the life of me. I get no faults through Nisscan. 
×
×
  • Create New...