Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 59
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

gr33dy

Front mounts on street cars are really only Heat Sinks for the intake air.

I think that most will be within 10% of the performance of each other.

I would that taking a bunch of coolers and swapping them in for power runs would make much difference. It would be more a case of the most efficient piping.

anyway, 350rwkw would definently make it a beast of a car.

Burnouts in 4th gear!!

BASS OUT

Boostd - u got a link to your thread? sorry -dont have time to search for it.

Keep the input coming in about the intercoolers and piping guys - If I am gonna spend the $$$ I want some public opinion on their experiences and knowledge.

I think I will install the boost control at the same time as the front mount and the oil catch can - any suggestions? So far I am leaning toward the apexi avcr - what do yous reckon??

:(

350kw is a shit load of power. Especially if u are a newbie to performance cars. I have a 33 making 277rwkw with bilsteins, 255 G3's and strut braces, and still wont grab till 3rd (if ur lucky) I can tell u what i have done and what i have found out since i have done it. First u will definately need a front mount so u can up the boost safely. With out turbo upgrade u cant run over 13-14 pound though. So next i would do fuel pump and reg. Next i would get rid of that air filter ( the last thing u want is a bit of foam 2 go through your turbo) and go for a K&N style. U can then highflow the turbo and up the boost a bit more. The injectors at this stage should be fine as apparently the standard injectors are good for round 400hp. I went for a top mount GT35/40 which will require a new manifold, new turbo lines, ect, more expensive than highflow but sets u up for more horsepower. I installed a set of tomei cams (optional) but assists with turbo lag and if u go the top mount with larger turbo u will need external gate. And ofcourse re tune ur power FC. All this set me back 12k and the motor blew. At this point fitted 550cc injectors to safeguard further detination. Is now only running 12pound but im guising that will be close to the hp limit befor u will need to rebuild. Forged pistons and rods, new crank, RB30 bottom end, flow the head, decompress, and see how much boost you can run before breaking. im guessing the rebuild will be close to 6k, but until gear box and diff give up, will prob get u close to that 350rwkw. Problem is power FC uses air flow meter so u will never pull high kw with a computer upgrade. My advise about boost controller is go cheap. up the boost and save the money, sell the Power FC and buy Motec wich doesnt use an air flow meter and has its own boost controller, so to spend $800 on and AVCR would be a waste. However i have one that worked well before the turbo upgrade. To do it properly i would have to agree u will be looking at around $20,000, so maybe start mild with intercooler boost and fuel upgrade and see how u go?

Any front mount cooler has gotta be better than the factory crap

I paid $660 for my cooler

Its a garrett core 600X300X78 plus end tanks

Then about 500bucks to mount and plumb

When you do a cooler think about doing a custom plenum to

If you plumb your cooler to the factory intake manifold, the piping is like 3.2meters long, thats a long way?

I had a plenum made up now my piping is under 2meters and a hell of alot more Responsive

You cant look past the apaxi avcr, prob one of the best controllers available

Steer clear from the bleed valve style, they are less likely to hold the boost they are set on, they tend to die off up top

Electronic all the way

Sex should be like a skyline- quick, obscene and loud enough for the whole street to hear when you come

is the size of the end tanks on the intercooler important? Is bigger better?

i noticed on my fc commander that the boost is in mmgh (same as the instrument cluster) what does this mean and can somebody please explain the difference between psi and bar.

sorry for the newbie style questions - how else am I gonna learn? :Oops:

You cant look past the apaxi avcr, prob one of the best controllers available

Steer clear from the bleed valve style, they are less likely to hold the boost they are set on, they tend to die off up top

Electronic all the way

Sex should be like a skyline- quick, obscene and loud enough for the whole street to hear when you come

Its very easy to look past an apexi avcr especially using a external gated turbo!!

HKS EVC is a 10x times better boost controller which is dual solenoid and uses a stepper motor, as the avcr is just a single solenoid old school thing!!

is the size of the end tanks on the intercooler important? Is bigger better?

i noticed on my fc commander that the boost is in mmgh (same as the instrument cluster) what does this mean and can somebody please explain the difference between psi and bar.

sorry for the newbie style questions - how else am I gonna learn?  :Oops:

mmhg, is refering to a raise in Mercury measured in millimeters.

760mmhg = 101.3kpa = 1bar = 14.5psi

One Bar is one atmosphere, an atmosphere is 14.5 pounds per square inch.

Cihan.

All those fancy features and the LCD doesent go past the fact it is a single solenoid controller that doesent work well with an external gate!!

The more BS features things have sometimes is to hide the fact they cant do what you want them to do in the first place :D

All those fancy features and the LCD doesent go past the fact it is a single solenoid controller that doesent work well with an external gate!!

The more BS features things have sometimes is to hide the fact they cant do what you want them to do in the first place :D

Hehe, i agree.. They should make it to suite the intended purpose, not hide it with time waster features.

cooler - Look in to trust's kits.

boost controller - NOT the AVCR.. fancy but crap. from what I have read on specs, I would look at the BLITZ SBC-ID III. cost is about $900 from AUTOBAHN or just under $700 from japan online stores.

BOOSTD's turbo story is a very interesting read. However, from what I have read, I don't think that you have the knowledge (nor do I) to get those results as he did most of the work with hybrid-ising (my new word for the day) that turbo.

You sound very much like a "go to a workshop and point at a product for them to fit" kinda a guy as a lot of us are..

I think that you will find with a new intercooler and about 10-11psi boost with the other mods you have, you will see about 200rwkw with the PFC tuned right.

considering this is 20rwkw more than you have now and an even large number of torque higher than you have now, you will be happy with it for a while..

THAT can be the first step you take now..

so...

about $1500 for the cooler

about $700 for the boost controller

about $300 for the new tune

Cihan, Thanx for the info on boost measurements. What is the factory boost setting for an rb25det?

Regarding hks evc - what is there cost and wheres a good supplier? Any links for this one?

Would the hks work well with the standard turbo until I upgrade it? does the hks have duel settings for low and high boost? what is the recommended boost limit for stock turbo but with front mount?

Still trying to decide what is the best front mount to support 250rwkw. Any suggestions?

thanx for taking the time to answer my questions. :D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Good luck on the weekend mate
    • Must have been an absolute nightmare to drive when the power steer was out, the rack ratio/wheel size/caster is all set up for power assistance
    • Welcome to SAU, what are you looking at buying?
    • I checked the injectors again (1 and 2, since they’re easiest to access) to make sure they weren’t clogged. Even though the entire fuel system had been cleaned, I wanted to be certain. Everything looked clean, so I reinstalled and connected everything. When I started the car to confirm everything was okay, it immediately revved up high, so I shut it off straight away. I checked to see if I’d missed a vacuum hose or something, but everything was connected. On the second attempt, the car ran without the high idle, but I noticed a distinct “compressed air” sound coming from the engine bay. Tracing the sound, I pushed injector #6 forward slightly and the noise stopped — it turned out it wasn’t seated properly, despite the fuel rail being bolted down. While holding it in place, the car idled steadily without stalling and ran for over 5 minutes. At this point, I pulled all six injectors out just in case I hadn’t seated them correctly or dirt had gotten onto the O-rings. Unfortunately, I discovered that I had damaged 3 out of 6 injectors (the OEM 270cc ones) during installation. So yes, this was my fault. Since only the pintle caps were damaged, I’ve ordered a Fuel Injector Service Kit from NZEFI to refurbish them. In the meantime, I reinstalled my new injectors – the car now idles fine for over 15 minutes without stalling. I have not attempted to drive it so far. It’s not perfect yet, as it hesitates when the throttle is pressed, but it’s a big improvement. Unplugging the IACV with the new injectors idles at around 800rpm, even with the IACV screw tightened fully. But this is probably due to tune.
    • I wanted to try and preserve the front bumper as long as possible, they're not cheap and are made to order in Japan. Taking inspiration from my previous K11 Micra build where I made an undertray for the Impul bumper, I did the same for this BN Sports bumper but a little slimmed down.  This time round I only made a 'skid plate' (if that's the correct wording/term) for just the bumper surface area, the Micra version covered the gap like an undertray. Starting off with a sheet of mild steel approx. 0.9mm thick 4ft x 2ft in size. I traced around the bumper, cut it out and cleaned the edges. Luckily I was able to get two halves from one piece of metal In the video I installed it as is, but I've since then I've removed it to spray and add a rubber edging trim. The rubber trim is suitable for 1-2mm and it's a really nice tight fit. The bolts had to be loosened due to the plates being too tight against the bumper, the trim wouldn't push on I used some stainless M6 flat headed bolts for a flusher finish (rather than hex heads poking down), I believe this style fastener is used for furniture too incase you struggle to source some. The corner's are a little wider, but this may be an advantage incase I get close to bumping it  The front grill got some attention, finally getting round to repairing it. Upon removal one fixing pulled itself out of the plastic frame, one side is M8 that fixes inside of the frame, where as the other side is M5. Not knowing I could get replacements, I cut down an M8 bolt, threaded it inside the frame along with a decent amount of JB Weld.  The mesh was replaced to match the bumper. One hole on the bonnet/hood had to be drilled out to 8mm to accommodate the new stud, once the glue had set it could be refitted. I think the reason the grill was double meshed was to hide the horn/bonnet latch (which makes sense) but I much prefer it matching the bumper Bumper refitted and it's looking much better IMO The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bVZP35io9MA
×
×
  • Create New...