Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

'Gear specific boost control'

Has anyone got one and knows how to set this gear specific boost control? the instructions may as well be in japaneese... :aroused:

I'm assuming that this 'gear specific boost control' means thats in each gear the boost can be set to a diferant value, thus avoiding wheel spin and excessive boost in say first gear? or have i got the wrong end of the stick?? :(

I've set my max boost settings and got a nice stable 1.2 bar, but now i want to see if i can get more control, for example the rev's section, and gear section..

Would love some real basic help if any one can.....

Thankyou Dean

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/56597-super-avc-type-r/
Share on other sites

yeah you are pretty much correct, it has a gear judge mechanism if i understand it correctly and say at a max speed of 55km/h youll be in second so you can set the boost for the gear judged "second gear". it doesnt read the ecu for what gear you are simply judges it based off speed and rpm

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/56597-super-avc-type-r/#findComment-1095872
Share on other sites

well probably not much of a launch control as launch control is generally associated with going from a standing start to a quick speed instantly i guess, whereas yours is a more gradual build up, a launch control is more like a stall converter or somethign i guess

but yeah setting lower boost with the gear judge method should give you better control in first gear, is your series 2 equipped with factory alsd ?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/56597-super-avc-type-r/#findComment-1095917
Share on other sites

I've found some information on a number of site on the web and thought they may be helpfull to others as they were to me......

TUNING:

Basic tuning will take a few hours, but fine tuning all the parameter will take a while. The tuning instructions in the manual leave a lot to be desired... the translation is fairly poor. Read and re-read this section, about the third time you read it, it does start making sense. And if it seems that a word is missing in a sentence... it IS! I guess the translator didnt know the English word. So I attempt to explain what each of the parameters does along with how to set it.

Also, the boost is displayed in Kg/cm^2... the conversion to PSI is 14.22:1 NOT 14.5 or 14.7 or anything else.

STEP 1) System parameter setup - All in 'Etc.' menu

Car Select:

Cyl=6

Spd=2

Thr=Arrow pointing up

Sensor Sel:

Relative1 (leave as default)

Gear judge:

This is how the unit knows what gear you are in. mine at the moment is set as follows:

1st=125

2nd=070

3rd=049

4th=035

5th=025

Read directions to check.

Grph Scale:

These are units for the graphing view modes only.

Bs=2.0kg/cm^2

Ne=7000rpm

Sp=180km/h (good to 112mph)

STEP 2) Mode [A] setup

Boost/Duty

Values which control boost

Set boost at 1.10 (can be anything, but 9psi seems like a safe start)

Set duty cycle at 20%

Scramble:

I did not use this feature

Ne-Point

These are the RPM points at which boost/duty cycle can be individually set - RPM's less than the lowest point use the settings for the lowest point, same for higher than highest point.(It works...) I use: 3000,3500,4000,4500,5000,5500,6000,6500

F/B speed

This is the 'boost control sampling frequency' - i.e. how often the controller checks the boost and corrects it. The basic idea is, if boost consistently overshoots, increase number; if boost oscillates, decrease number.

Learn-gear

This turns 'self-learn' mode on/off, per gear. With this turned on, I found that the unit kept dialing my transition spike back IN (eliminating spike is later). I turned learn-mode OFF in all gear, this is 'X' for all gears. But learn mode may work better in your car... experiment with it.

Start-Duty

This controls initial spiking - i.e. quick no-throttle to full-throttle at 3K. This feature reduces the max boost a little, when going from negative pressure to boost... so it has the desired affect of reducing the initial spike, but not impacting sustained boost. Controlling initial spike is covered later, for now if can be set to 0% for all gears.

It helped me to undersatnd a few things ;) Dean

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/56597-super-avc-type-r/#findComment-1096169
Share on other sites

The AVCR actually tells you the gear judge values. Find a quiet street where if you take your eyes off the road for 5 secs you aitn going to hit anything oOR get a passenger:)

Cruis along at 15km.h in 1st gear and th eAVCR will display a value which is basically the relationship between revs and road speed....chaanges for every gear. So just cruise up to say 5,000rpm in every gear and set the gear judge values.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/56597-super-avc-type-r/#findComment-1104989
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...