Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

What other mods have you got? What engine management are you using?

injectors, fuel pump, external wastegate, fmic, 3" zorst, elec boost @ 15psi

running GReddy e-manage

proper tune with g/box sorted should net 350-400rwhp

How's it goin Disco Potatoe lol. Is this the turbo you are talking about???? This is the one I might be buying, on the left.

Steve

Yes  to the port shrouded .60 AR covered six blade unit . This turbo's (GT30R) part no is  700382-12 and is sold without turbine housing . 704902-1 and -2 are the part no's for 1.06 and .82 AR exhaust housings . DO NOT FIT BORED OUT T3 or T04 exhaust housings as the nozzle section is different and does not work properly with the GT type turbine .
just as an idea for u JB i have a t04e with .60 comp housing and 1.06 rear starts boosting at 1600 on std rb25det. gets a bar around 3500rpm

Hey Kamikaze,

thats nice early boost. What is the power output? any other mods done? How does the t04e hit? nice and hard? :aroused:

i just ordered a gt30r from cheapturbo.com it is the 'right' gt30r with the 6 blade wheel and shrouded inlet.

its gonna be going onto a rb20 so i got the .63 ar turbine to help it get going.

i think with cams and the hks exhaust manifold i have it should do pretty well for what im looking at.

1 bar at 3500 is not bad at all, if i can get that on my rb20 i will be more than happy, seeing as i plan on running low boost around town (10psi) while high boost will be in the 17psi range.

RB180SX , just been back to the HKS USA site the compressor inducer should be 57mm for a 56 trim comp wheel . The turbine exducer diameter should be 55mm . If you look at the HKS GT3037 Pro S version they mention two T3 flanged integrally gated exhaust housings in .68 and .87AR . The exhaust outlet is called GT Pro and if anyone has pics of it I'd like to see them . Its pretty obvious the .68 is aimed at RB20DET's and the .87 at RB25DET's .

Brett Lloyd of GCG Turbos (Condell Park Syd) sells some HKS Turbine housings seperatly and may have these as well . If they can be obtained either of them on the back of a GT30R should make an easy convienent conversion on a single turbo RB six , always assuming the compressor cover cleared everything and same with the waste gate actuator . Not having seen the GT Pro outlet I'm not sure what elbow pattern it uses . HKS sometimes makes these things vehicle specific so it may be like the RB20/25 outlet .

So many choises , cheers A .

just as an idea for u JB i have a t04e with .60 comp housing and 1.06 rear starts boosting at 1600 on std rb25det. gets a bar around 3500rpm

Bush bearing old school turbo with 1.06 rear making boost from 1600rpm on a stock rb25??? I wouldnt put money on that

Can you get the gt30r with a flange to fit the stock exhaust manifold? The reason i ask is i have a high mount manifold with the stock turbo flange, i wanted to use this to mount the gt30r there and tap in a wastegate pipe.

Also, when i get this turbo what size wastegate should i use? Max boost would probly be about 16 psi.. I want to use the .68 exhaust housing to try bring boost on a little quicker if that makes any difference.

Cheers :D

:P

Can you get the gt30r with a flange to fit the stock exhaust manifold? The reason i ask is i have a high mount manifold with the stock turbo flange, i wanted to use this to mount the gt30r there and tap in a wastegate pipe.

 

Also, when i get this turbo what size wastegate should i use? Max boost would probly be about 16 psi.. I want to use the .68 exhaust housing to try bring boost on a little quicker if that makes any difference.

 

Cheers   :(

 

:(

dont get the 0.68 rear housing as it will bring on power 2 early in the rpm and just causing wheel spin.

Go for a 0.82 or 0.86 rear housing.

dont get the 0.68 rear housing as it will bring on power 2 early in the rpm and just caused wheel spin.

Go for a 0.82 or 0.86 rear housing.

cool...just answered my question too...I will go for the 0.82 exhaust AR

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • For once a good news  It needed to be adjusted by that one nut and it is ok  At least something was easy But thank you very much for help. But a small issue is now(gearbox) that when the car is stationary you can hear "clinking" from gearbox so some of the bearing is 100% not that happy... It goes away once you push clutch so it is 100% gearbox. Just if you know...what that bearing could be? It sounding like "spun bearing" but it is louder.
    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
×
×
  • Create New...