Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

What other mods have you got? What engine management are you using?

injectors, fuel pump, external wastegate, fmic, 3" zorst, elec boost @ 15psi

running GReddy e-manage

proper tune with g/box sorted should net 350-400rwhp

How's it goin Disco Potatoe lol. Is this the turbo you are talking about???? This is the one I might be buying, on the left.

Steve

Yes  to the port shrouded .60 AR covered six blade unit . This turbo's (GT30R) part no is  700382-12 and is sold without turbine housing . 704902-1 and -2 are the part no's for 1.06 and .82 AR exhaust housings . DO NOT FIT BORED OUT T3 or T04 exhaust housings as the nozzle section is different and does not work properly with the GT type turbine .
just as an idea for u JB i have a t04e with .60 comp housing and 1.06 rear starts boosting at 1600 on std rb25det. gets a bar around 3500rpm

Hey Kamikaze,

thats nice early boost. What is the power output? any other mods done? How does the t04e hit? nice and hard? :aroused:

i just ordered a gt30r from cheapturbo.com it is the 'right' gt30r with the 6 blade wheel and shrouded inlet.

its gonna be going onto a rb20 so i got the .63 ar turbine to help it get going.

i think with cams and the hks exhaust manifold i have it should do pretty well for what im looking at.

1 bar at 3500 is not bad at all, if i can get that on my rb20 i will be more than happy, seeing as i plan on running low boost around town (10psi) while high boost will be in the 17psi range.

RB180SX , just been back to the HKS USA site the compressor inducer should be 57mm for a 56 trim comp wheel . The turbine exducer diameter should be 55mm . If you look at the HKS GT3037 Pro S version they mention two T3 flanged integrally gated exhaust housings in .68 and .87AR . The exhaust outlet is called GT Pro and if anyone has pics of it I'd like to see them . Its pretty obvious the .68 is aimed at RB20DET's and the .87 at RB25DET's .

Brett Lloyd of GCG Turbos (Condell Park Syd) sells some HKS Turbine housings seperatly and may have these as well . If they can be obtained either of them on the back of a GT30R should make an easy convienent conversion on a single turbo RB six , always assuming the compressor cover cleared everything and same with the waste gate actuator . Not having seen the GT Pro outlet I'm not sure what elbow pattern it uses . HKS sometimes makes these things vehicle specific so it may be like the RB20/25 outlet .

So many choises , cheers A .

just as an idea for u JB i have a t04e with .60 comp housing and 1.06 rear starts boosting at 1600 on std rb25det. gets a bar around 3500rpm

Bush bearing old school turbo with 1.06 rear making boost from 1600rpm on a stock rb25??? I wouldnt put money on that

Can you get the gt30r with a flange to fit the stock exhaust manifold? The reason i ask is i have a high mount manifold with the stock turbo flange, i wanted to use this to mount the gt30r there and tap in a wastegate pipe.

Also, when i get this turbo what size wastegate should i use? Max boost would probly be about 16 psi.. I want to use the .68 exhaust housing to try bring boost on a little quicker if that makes any difference.

Cheers :D

:P

Can you get the gt30r with a flange to fit the stock exhaust manifold? The reason i ask is i have a high mount manifold with the stock turbo flange, i wanted to use this to mount the gt30r there and tap in a wastegate pipe.

 

Also, when i get this turbo what size wastegate should i use? Max boost would probly be about 16 psi.. I want to use the .68 exhaust housing to try bring boost on a little quicker if that makes any difference.

 

Cheers   :(

 

:(

dont get the 0.68 rear housing as it will bring on power 2 early in the rpm and just causing wheel spin.

Go for a 0.82 or 0.86 rear housing.

dont get the 0.68 rear housing as it will bring on power 2 early in the rpm and just caused wheel spin.

Go for a 0.82 or 0.86 rear housing.

cool...just answered my question too...I will go for the 0.82 exhaust AR

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
    • Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
×
×
  • Create New...