Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

My car is in pristine condition, engine is running great, but since tracking it for the past few months there has been an oil leak which is getting worse and worse.

Today on track, after the 1st session (hot day Eastern Creek) I stopped in pit lane and damn oil was dripping out from all over the place. There was a massive puddle at the end. It wasn't so bad each session after that, but still, oil is leaking everywhere.

My mechanic cannot fix the problem as he cannot reach it. It's on the other side of the engine (not the turbo side) and he says:

A) It would be a waste of my cash to do an engine rebuild now as my engine is in such great condition.

B) Maybe I should wait until I blow it up!!!!??? LOL. It's a catch 22 as you can see... engine is going hard, car is perfect but there's an oil leak no one can get to without lifting the engine out, which means I should just do a rebuild?

Any advice would be appreciated. I want to make this a bullet proof track car! Any suggestions on price for a rebuild would be ghreat (what budget should I set aside?). I already have new injectors and head gasket ready to go on, new radiator too and HKS 2530 turbos, all ready to go on... so maybe I should just do the rebuild, install turbos and go all out for stronger internals? Pistons? Conrods? Is $10k enough for all this?! Or am I looking at MORE?!

ANy help appreciated. Thanks in advance guys. Loving the GT-R more and more and always knew I'd have to look into a rebuild at some stage. I'm up for the commitment!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/57268-help-rebuild-rb26-advice-needed/
Share on other sites

Well mechanic says it's on the other side of the turbos. And the engine does not need to come out if you are installing turbos.

I will see if I can just fix the leak without a full rebuild. Report back soon.

you can replace the turbos without lifting the engine, but it is very fiddly and may drive the mechanic mad, so it is prefferable to just lift the engine and replace them

so if i were u i would just have the engine lifted while getting the tubos changed, and get the oil leak fixed at the same time.

forget about rebuilding if its a simple oil leak, what for!???

plus u need to change the turbos(lift engine) anyway so even better.

it all depends on how long u want the engine to last... eventually its going to blow. how long determines many factors

as a question... couldnt u just hoist the car up and get to the leak from below?

btw ive just paid for my engine build which is a 25/30 combo - $5400 inc labour - includes new pistons, linished and treated rods, complete head work with all new valve springs, guides etc

LOL, not to sure what the fuss is about.

If you have a leak, it must be fixed!

Just get it fixed or your motor will fail due to oil starvation, especially if its leaking as bad as you say it is.

I don't know why you would rebuild it for the sake of it, unless you were planning on some major mods or power increase. (Or you are loaded with cash, in which case it shouldnt worry you getting a oil leak fixed)

Is the oil leak on the same side of the engine as the turbos or the opposite side?

anyway, whichever the case...your mechanic is an idiot. I can get to anything on those engines without removing anything. It's just a matter of having the right tools.

There really isn't many possibilities for oil leaks on the turbo side except for return lines and feed lines. That's assuming is't engine oil.

If it's on the other side then it'll probably be the oil pressure sender leaking or the oil filter not on correctly(tight). Those couple of things asside from the sump are really the only places that oil can come from the side. Front and back are a different story. PM me for more details or if you want some solutions.

There should be no problem fixing the leak?

I don't see why the mechanic is unable to reach the leak? The engine should not need to be hoisted either.

Source where it's coming from and fix it asap, otherwise you do a lot of damage in the process of doing trackdays while it slowly leaks.

PM me if you like

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Lets say I wanted to buy this, specifically for this purpose. How do I actually perform the function. Can I still buy a Consult-1? Am I about to be burned by the fact my car is a 2000 model Series 2 R34 and thus will be some stupid other system? Do I just need this -> https://obd2australia.com.au/product/nissan-consult-14-pin-to-usb-ddl-diagnostic-interface-with-ftdi-ft232r-chip/ And with what software?
    • That's probably OK. That's a face to face compression joint between two surfaces with the clamping load provided by those bolts. So.... it's unlikely that the bolts will end up feeling that load in shear, unless the clamping surfaces are not large enough, bolts not got enough tension on them, etc etc to prevent the two faces from moving wrt each other. Which... I would hope the designers have considered, seeing as it's probably one of the most important things the upright has to do apart from resist collapsing in its own right. But yes, it would definitely be worth asking them what their safety factor on that part of the design was. I tend to think that the casting, being a casting, is not necessarily the strongest bit of material in the world. It's about an inch square, and when you think about the loads that are being put into it, you have to wonder what safety factor the Nissan boys (and every other OEM engineer who has designed all the millions of other uprights that look essentially the same) used to account for defective casting, aging, severe impacts on the wheel, etc etc. 
    • Those bolts would be orders of magnitude stronger that cast aluminium though.  And its mainly clamping force, not shear they are dealing with?
    • Except all that twisting force that is breaking a cast piece, appears to be going through 4 bolts in the picture Johnny posted of the BryPar one...
    • The smart approach is to use the gearbox loom from the manual car. Makes it a lot easier - just plugs into the switches on the box and plugs into the main loom up near the fusebox. Then you only need to deal with bypassing the inhibit switch. The other approach requires you to use the wiring diagram to identify those wires by colour and location, perhaps even indulging in a little multimeter action to trace them end to end to make sure, and then.... you will have the answers you need. The R34 wiring diagram is available on-line (no, I do not have a link to it myself - I would have to do a search if I wasn't able to go to the copy I have at home).
×
×
  • Create New...