Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Got about 6k to go b/4 due for timing belt and although this won't be in the immediate future, need to be prepared as I've heard that a major service is done at that time. Not sure what the major service entails but need to know roughly what kind of $$ I'm going to be up for. Got paint job and graphics on Beddy van coming up early in the new year and been trying like hell to get the 3" system on the line but something always comes up. The Beddy has burnt up a lot of $$ of late, new wheels and tyres, new rad and installed twin electric fans, 3" zorst (did it myself) and fitted high riser that I've had laying around for a couple of years and a larger fuel tank (400 Chevys are thirsty). Yeah, the Beddy has kept me broke of late, luckily I do most of the work myself otherwise I'd be on bread and water for nutrition.

Anyway, any clues on the belt and major service work costs would be much appreciated.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/57791-almost-timing-belt-time/
Share on other sites

I was told there is a sticker on the radiator or something which is put on there when the timing belt is done.... its can be used as an indicator to see if the km's are false as well.

Anyway - alot of people drive over the 100 000k's with no probs, but then again it can be a pretty big risk to let it go. Big $$ in repairs if it goes bang.

Call Ken at Hyperdrive - 9209 3100 - they are in Malaga

or Steve at SST 9470 1115 - they are in Welshpool.

Both shops look after SAU guys well. Give them a call for a quote.

stop talking about beddy the ****.

timing belt's can be expensive, but seriously, i've done well over 100k's and not changed the belt yet! (i dont believe the jap sticker that says they changed it)

anyone know ? might get it done myself?

I like my Beddy van :D

Seriously tho', I had the timing belt snap on my 626 several years ago @ 120k. Didn't know they had to be changed at the time, so will not neglect the line on this issue.

I was told there is a sticker on the radiator or something which is put on there when the timing belt is done.... its can be used as an indicator to see if the km's are false as well.

Anyway - alot of people drive over the 100 000k's with no probs, but then again it can be a pretty big risk to let it go. Big $$ in repairs if it goes bang.

Call Ken at Hyperdrive - 9209 3100 - they are in Malaga

or Steve at SST 9470 1115 - they are in Welshpool.

Both shops look after SAU guys well. Give them a call for a quote.

Thanx Liz and gR33ddy, will keep that in mind, but for now just wondering what people have spent with changing belt and other major service items, whatever they may have been.

I completed a service and timing belt change on my R33 about 4 weeks ago.

I spent about $330 just on parts.

This included;

$135 for non-genuine timing belt

$95 for 6 NGK iridium plugs to suit RB20DET (they run cooler)

$10 for ryco oil filter (prob couldve got better)

$70 for oil (I think - cant remember exactly)

$20 for fuel filter

I didnt have to change brake pads or replace any rubbers or joints and I didnt have any exhaust/cooling/intake issues either.

two weeks ago I had a power fc installed and the car tuned and it is running very smooth (and responsive!).

Your general service costs (for parts) will be similar or more(depending on the products you use) and your total cost will depend on the condition of your car (obviously) and the mechinic or service agent you choose.

the timing belt is recommended 100K for a good reason - if it stuffs up then you could be up for $$$$loads.

I found a supplier who can get me the original (nissan) skyline belt for $105 - just after I spent the $$$$ on the non-genuine one.(Its always the way!)

I have about 82K on my car and i thought that it would be a good(safe) time to do the replacement.

I have looked around for timing belts and this is the best price that I could find.

Hope this info is usefull.

:D

Hey guys, timing belt is not hard to change, just allow yourself plenty of time and an air ratchet for the crank pulley as it's normally way too tight for any ring spanner.

Just make sure that you mark the all the pulleys (cams+crank) before you remove the current belt, unless your pulleys are already marked of course, loosen the tensioner and you're away.

If theres anything I can help anyone out with, PM me and I'll do my best.

:D

Hey guys, timing belt is not hard to change, just allow yourself plenty of time and an air ratchet for the crank pulley as it's normally way too tight for any ring spanner.

Just make sure that you mark the all the pulleys (cams+crank) before you remove the current belt, unless your pulleys are already marked of course, loosen the tensioner and you're away.

If theres anything I can help anyone out with, PM me and I'll do my best.  

:)

Yep same here, did the timing belt by myself at home, wasnt to hard took about 3-4hours just to make sure it was all right. ended up putting the timing belt on just one tooth out and the car ran like a dog though. Didnt take much to fix it up.

If the rest of the car is running fine I wouldnt bother changing spark plugs and the like.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, it's getting like that, my daughter is coming over on Thursday to help me remove the bonnet so I can install the Carbuilders underbonnet stuff,  I might get her to give me a hand and remove the hardtop, maybe, because on really hot days the detachable hardtop helps the aircon keep the interior cool, the heat just punches straight through to rag top I also don't have enough hair for the "wind in the hair" experience, so there is that....LOL
    • Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
×
×
  • Create New...