Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

FS: Volk/Rays TE37 in bronze (5 x 114.3)

F: 18 x 8.5 (+30)

R: 18 x 9.5 (+35)

Wheels are in good condition, but not in the same excellent condition as the Work Meister S1's and the GT2's...

Also come with a full set of Volk/Rays wheel nuts (in black to match the stickers!)

l2ite372.th.jpg

More pics tonight....

Once again, the best price around - happy to send interstate

$2,100

Kind Regards,

Jeff.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/57807-fs-volkrays-te37/
Share on other sites

Guest two.06l
FS: Volk/Rays TE37 in bronze (5 x 114.3)

F: 18 x 8.5 (+30)

R: 18 x 9.5 (+35)

Wheels are in good condition, but not in the same excellent condition as the Work Meister S1's and the GT2's...

Also come with a full set of Volk/Rays wheel nuts (in black to match the stickers!)

l2ite372.th.jpg

More pics tonight....

Once again, the best price around - happy to send interstate

$2,340

Kind Regards,

Jeff.

Would you consider selling the nuts? if so how much?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/57807-fs-volkrays-te37/#findComment-1112558
Share on other sites

Seems to be a lot of interest in GTR fitments - wait until February!

Anyway, more pics showing the condition of the wheels...

j7rvolks.th.jpg

l5pte371.th.jpg

The worst example of gutter damage:

i9dte373.th.jpg

Paint damage evident on one wheel. There is no structural damage whatsoever, it appears as though (maybe battery acid, thinners???) has splashed and eaten into the paint. No amount of polishing will remove it! However, the surface is smooth to the touch:

a1ete374.th.jpg

Up close:

w2qte375.th.jpg

Hott interest in these - keep it coming...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/57807-fs-volkrays-te37/#findComment-1112718
Share on other sites

I have fitted these to an R33 Gtst without issue.

The fronts fit perfectly, plenty of caliper clearance (Brembo’s would fit easily) whilst remaining inside the guards.

The rears are a tighter fit, coming close to the suspension on the inside and sitting just inside the guards – but still fit. Over big bumps and/or extreme lowering (as per your previous cars!) they could hit, I can’t be sure. However, rolling the rear guards would be a necessity, as would stretched rubber.

Now, if an R32 is the same/very similar in this area as an R33, you will be ok. Whether they are the same is another question…

Trial fitting is welcome (however, I know you are in Perth)...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/57807-fs-volkrays-te37/#findComment-1129616
Share on other sites

  • 2 months later...
Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...