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Well Chris32, Doughboy, Skyline_Geoff, BL4CK32 etc could offer more comment. Mind you i think they have only really driven it with between 10 -12 psi and retarded ignition. Doughboy is the only one that had been in it with the old Jap ECU and 14psi, bvack before all my dramas with Pfc, cams etc etc ...it use to get a long pretty well.

But they can give their opinions, but it would staty spooling at around 3000rpm, making 0.1bar. Through the 3000rpm range it use to start getting up there, and by about 4,200rpm i use to make 0.65bar (8psi). That was std wastegate spring pressure and obviously with the wastegate opening a little slowing spool.

With the AVCR set to 15psi, it would make 15psi at about 4,600rpm in 3rd and 4th gear. In 2nd gear it use to kick you in the ass with a sizeable shove at 60km/h.

That was with a horrible ignition tune, and the bigger exhaust housing, and restrictive cat.

So with the current tune , removed cat and smaller 8cm housing Scotsman and the tuner are the only ones to have driven it. But im told the removal of the cat dropped the point that it hits 17psi by 300rpm. And yesterday it was hitting 17psi at around 4,300-4,500rpm. Thats on a dyno and not on the road, so have no idea of what sort of ramp rate the tuner was using.

The comment i got today was that it has good power between 4,500 and 7,500rpm. Ill wait till i drive it, but its an improvement on how it was when the above drove it, and they may disagree but it never drove liek a Festive. A Corolla yes, but not Festiva:)

Oh, and it now looks like i have traction problems:(, as the smaller housing brings it on harder, and pulls well for a 2L between 4,500-7,500rpm:)

Fark!!! Do you know that had slipped my mind:) The clutch is the weak link, as it slipped a fair bit with approx 200rwkws when at the drags. So with a bit of luck it will hold the power im making when im not slipping/heating it excessively, but when im shifting enthusiastically :) has enough forgiveness not to kill the box.

Its a fine line which i hope im right on top off...but i suppose ill find out.

Just spoke to a friend that picked the car up fopr me, and hes telling me the thing is alive and kicking at 4,500rpm, and starts all happeneing at 4,000rpm. So it sounds as though the smaller housing has brought the boost threshold back about 500rpm with no loss in top end. Actually the tune seems to have improved the top end:)

Another thing, with it scrabbling for traction thru 2nd, the box wont be getting loaded up with too much torque.

Im talking so much dribble, im so keen to get behind the wheel and get to Phillip Island on Saturday.:)

Now how much were those cams again? Rb20 POWAH forever, well at least one dyno run, we will see of she can do a track day at this power level:)

Well done on the power with the cat gone. I will be definately looking into that. By the sounds of it, with it coming on song at 4,000rpm it should look at lot similar to mine.

I will be very interested to see the torque comparison as well because if you remember mine is possibly had a capacity increase so cant wait to see the graph.

Are you still using the AVCR and are you happy with it? I ask because my boost is controlled by the Autronic and it has a devastating spike to 17psi before it comes back down to 12psi. I wanted to run 15-17psi but not if its gonna spike to 20-22psi first so I'm researching boost controllers at the moment.

It could also be BOV related as its only got a bosch one on at present.

Thanks Roy, very helpful as always.

Also if you have any more detailed pics of your turbo manifold that would also be nice. And what did you end up doing about the turbo and shielding the heat? Did you end up getting a teacossie for it? Final question too, if you can give us a rough idea of fuel economy, both on and off the track (yeah yeah, that ones pushing it :P )

Sorry for all the questions, Im just trying to work out what to do with mine, and it will influence me now in terms of maintaing the engine I have now. (ie keep it, and spend more keeping it nice, or getting rid of in the future and not wasting so much money keeping it running as good)

I went crazy with DEI sheathing, exhaust wrap and adhesive backed tape. I have ordered an exhaust housing cover from Advan in Sydney, but it still hasnt arrived. So engine bay temps run much cooler now. My fear is the manifold is retaining all the heat now, plus it has been ceramic coated, and isnt supported with a bracket off the head. So it means when glowing red hot it supports the weight of the turbo...so this is the next thing i am to fix.

Only doing 4 laps in a Sprint, i hope the manifold wont fatigue, and the fact that it is ceramic coated on the inside as well, well im hinging my bets that a mechanical load wont crack it when its hot .... crosses fingers:(

As for fuel economy etc, ill know more when i have driven down and back from Phillip Island. Ill keep an eye on it. But with the Jap ECU and this setup i use to get about 420-450kms before the light comes on:) But i drive very easy on the street, so others would struggle to get similar figures

The old Pfc tune was woeful for any number of reasons:confused: It made good power, but fuel economy and low boost it was a pig. Id be lucky to get 250kms:( Actually to get to Adelaide from Melbourne i filled up when leaving Melbourne. Had to fill up at Horsham, and filled up on the outskirts of Adelaide:( Sh1thouse fuel economy:(

But i have faith that the thing now makes more power, runs better, friend said its a transformed car from the one he drove to the mechanics:thumbsup:

Knowing what i have learnt the last 18 months, im confident i could do it 2nd time around for less then 5k all up, that includes turbo setup, PFC, Z32 AFM, new IC and exhaust piping, heat shielding and tuning.

So since that includes a programable computer, at the minute im glad i didnt go for the bigger displacement RB. At the moment the car is making the power im happy with, at what I THINK (???) is a safe figure. I believe 20psi will be the limit of what i want to run, but ill take my time winding in that level of boost. Ill enjoy 235rwkws, then try the 250rwkws , thats provided the traction isnt a problem.

Im running a Trust/Greddy manifold, see below

attachment.php?attachmentid=30917

Where i bought mine, i think he still has a spare manifold and a few other TD06s

As for the AVCR, she is dead from the fire/coolant leak i had at Winton. I did like it though. So much that since ppl dont rate them, im keeping an eye out for someoen that wants to bin it and see if i can pick it up cheaply:)

When can I drive it next mate :P :P

Will be interesting to feel the differance. I went for a blast in Freebaggins 290rwkw R33 last night, that felt like it was about to take off!!

20psi should be safe in the ol' RB20 mate, before fuel pump drama's i was running 1.35bar in mine, and it went well, heaps of midrange.

Cant wait to get mine going strong again

well done mate,

Chris

yeah, that would be a experience!

when are you finished in adelaide, would be good to catch up for a beer before you go. Should hang around for the 500 mate, thats a awesome weekend!

at the minute im glad i didnt go for the bigger displacement RB.

I was waiting for it. :) To be honest with the power you are making for the little outlay (not counting the other rb's) I wouldn't bother either.

Hell, I've blown almost 7.5k on my setup to date and its still isn't tuned, still isn't running the big huffer. :P

Darren get that GT35R up and running so I am able to see if it really is what I want. Lag wise. :P Thats based on the GT30R vs GT35R turbine maps. The GT30R 1.06 flows as much as the GT35R .82.

If not I will step down to the .62 GT35R (equiv exhaust flow to the GT30R .82) and be happy. :rofl:

Darren = My Guineepig. :P heheh

Yeh provided the thing hold together (even though this motor has had to endure a fark up or two:() then i think a pretty stout 235rwkws is on the money?!?!?!

There is no doubting your engine will stomp mine into the ground, but having seen / witnessed how easy it is to kill a motor from no fault of your own, i would be scared for an RB30 like i would my 16 year old daughters virgintiy:)

BAsically if my thing max'd out at 230rwkws i wold have in all seriousness given up on the RB20, and suggested others do the same. But since it made the almst 260rwkws with stock engine, albeit 22psi, then im sticking ot my thinking that if you bolt the right stuff to an RB20 then it will get the job done, and is an equal to the SR20.

We just have to see how healthy the engine is in 20,000kms of running this power.:P

Revs and detonation are the killers mate, keep them under control and you should be right. Also at the track I guess you have to keep a eye on the water temps as well, but at least that will creep up and be managable ( try find a tuner with the FC-logit software, as you can access igniton v water temp through the laptop interface )

Remember if you bump up your rev limit at the track, you may be venturing into a 'un-tuned' part of the map, which could lead to nasty problems and another RB20 on the scrap pile

Who did the re-tune etc? Was it that dodgy place that you had all that trouble with?

Darren get that GT35R up and running so I am able to see if it really is what I want. Lag wise. ;) Thats based on the GT30R vs GT35R turbine maps. The GT30R 1.06 flows as much as the GT35R .82.

If not I will step down to the .62 GT35R (equiv exhaust flow to the GT30R .82) and be happy. :D

Darren = My Guineepig. :) heheh

BITE ME

/sarcasm :)

In due time itll be done.

Roy....if my old motor hadn't blown, youd be making me regret the larger displacement upgrade........well.............maybe :D

I went crazy with DEI sheathing, exhaust wrap and adhesive backed tape. I have ordered  an exhaust housing cover from Advan in Sydney, but it still hasnt arrived. So engine bay temps run much cooler now. My fear is the manifold is retaining all the heat now, plus it has been ceramic coated, and isnt supported with a bracket off the head. So it means when glowing red hot it supports the weight of the turbo...so this is the next thing i am to fix.

Only doing 4 laps in a Sprint, i hope the manifold wont fatigue, and the fact that it is ceramic coated on the inside as well, well im hinging my bets that a mechanical load wont crack it when its hot .... crosses fingers:(

As for fuel economy etc, ill know more when i have driven down and back from Phillip Island. Ill keep an eye on it. But with the Jap ECU and this setup i use to get about 420-450kms before the light comes on:) But i drive very easy on the street, so others would struggle to get similar figures

The old Pfc tune was woeful for any number of reasons:confused: It made good power, but fuel economy and low boost it was a pig. Id be lucky to get 250kms:( Actually to get to Adelaide from Melbourne i filled up when leaving Melbourne. Had to fill up at Horsham, and filled up on the outskirts of Adelaide:( Sh1thouse fuel economy:(

But i have faith that the thing now makes more power, runs better, friend said its a transformed car from the one he drove to the mechanics:thumbsup:

Knowing what i have learnt the last 18 months, im confident i could do it 2nd time around for less then 5k all up, that includes turbo setup, PFC, Z32 AFM, new IC and exhaust piping, heat shielding and tuning.  

So since that includes a programable computer, at the minute im glad i didnt go for the bigger displacement RB. At the moment the car is making the power im happy with, at what I THINK (???) is a safe figure.  I believe 20psi will be the limit of what i want to run, but ill take my time winding in that level of boost. Ill enjoy 235rwkws, then try the 250rwkws , thats provided the traction isnt a problem.

Im running a Trust/Greddy manifold, see below  

attachment.php?attachmentid=30917

Where i bought mine, i think he still has a spare manifold and a few other TD06s

As for the AVCR, she is dead from the fire/coolant leak i had at Winton. I did like it though. So much that since ppl dont rate them, im keeping an eye out for someoen that wants to bin it and see if i can pick it up cheaply:)

Thanks again! I have to admit, $5k, or even allow for $6-7 with some cams and head work etc, thats pretty cheap. When you also consider what a good bottom end rebuild would be capable of with the same bolt ons.

But inregards to the manifold maintaning the heat, you mean in the metal, or just heat in general? As I've been told a number of times the more heat there pretty much the better, as hotter air is thinner, and therefore moves faster, and as its on the exaust side the heat isnt a major issuse (asuming cooling for everything else is up to scratch)

And with *****foot driving, I got 9.9L for every 100kms off the last tank :) And thats with a cefiro not an r32 :D

pickup my motor this weeekend woohoo!

RB20, HKS T04E external gated kit, 550cc densos, custom gtr style inlet manifold, xf throttlebody... using the tomei poncams from my old motor and have ordered brand new ap engineering rb20 power fc w/ handcontroller and avcr for her

260kw here i come!

- adz

Hey guys we had a dyno comp today so i thought I'd chuck mine on.It did 187rwkw/251rwhp on about 13psi.Still not tuned for more boost so this will do till the 25 box goes in and then time to play!!!

251hp.jpg

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