Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

well he said when he had a quick drive it made 3psi at 6,500 rpm so its a top end screamer

as expected.

it would be quite a pig to drive with that sized turbo no matter what size engine.

I think your looking for the word "sic" not pig he's going to drag then swap to a hks 2535 for drift

well yeah, the owner must be crazy to drive something like that.

fyi, the hks gt2535 is too small for the RB24, you'd be better off with a hks gt2835r or the new garrett gt3071r.

exactly the turbo i'll be downsizing to with my 2.4 once i can find someone to tune the fcon V ecu..

my car made 220rwkw on 10psi and insanely rich afr's with the k27 but its way too laggy for a street car (full boost at 4.8k). basically useless in the hills unless your on gorge road (open mid speed corners).

:blink:

Hi guys i live up here in darwin (bloody hot) ive got a rb20det in my s13

ive got: GT25-40

550cc rx-7 injectors

microtech ltx-8

gtr fuel pump

shitty stock supra front mount

press bent intercooler piping...(dodgy)

3" exauhst with trust 4"tip

currently running on 12psi it made 209.7rwkw (indarwin and yet to be tuned)

i just blew the motor up about 1 month ago and now ive got HKS cams tomei head gasket 700X350X100 Trust FMIC and im looking for a forge kit but cant find ne thing for the rb20 should be making 250+ once i get it running properly, only prob is i cant run too much boost up here because of the heat.. :)

Also my best time at the street meet was [email protected] track temp was 34degrees on the night! on street tyres :)

Edited by RB20DET SILVIA
Hi guys i live up here in darwin (bloody hot) ive got a rb20det in my s13

ive got: GT25-40

550cc rx-7 injectors

microtech ltx-8

gtr fuel pump

shitty stock supra front mount

press bent intercooler piping...(dodgy)

3" exauhst with trust 4"tip

currently running on 12psi it made 209.7rwkw (indarwin and yet to be tuned)

i just blew the motor up about 1 month ago and now ive got HKS cams tomei head gasket 700X350X100 Trust FMIC and im looking for a forge kit but cant find ne thing for the rb20 should be making 250+ once i get it running properly, only prob is i cant run too much boost up here because of the heat.. :)

Also my best time at the street meet was [email protected] track temp was 34degrees on the night! on street tyres :)

dude,

Tomei in japan make forged pistons for the RB20DET, although to suit over-bored application, check it out;

http://www.tomei-p.co.jp/_2003web-catalogu...B20_piston.html

The GT2535 would probably quite a very nice street RB24DET.

i just feel that the turbine wheel in the gt2535 is too small for any engine that has a capacity of > 2.2L.

it would choke power up top given they run larger compressor wheels.

just my 2c

RS500,

It does no doubt choke up top end but thats exactly why I think it would be awesome for the street. Lots of mid range torque, there's nothing worse on the street than having to ring the crap out of it to zip up the inside lane or to overtake. It really depends what your used to, I'm used to big lazy v8's and old lazy 6's with lots of low and mid range torque.

Seeing how the GT2535 works on the rb25det's makes me think it would most definitely work very well with the rb24.

RS500,

It does no doubt choke up top end but thats exactly why I think it would be awesome for the street. Lots of mid range torque, there's nothing worse on the street than having to ring the crap out of it to zip up the inside lane or to overtake. It really depends what your used to, I'm used to big lazy v8's and old lazy 6's with lots of low and mid range torque.

Seeing how the GT2535 works on the rb25det's makes me think it would most definitely work very well with the rb24.

you make a good point cubes, although by running a turbo like the garrett gt3071R, the larger turbine wheel will bring the smaller comp wheel into efficiency earlier without the lag experienced with a turbo like the HKS GT2540 for example.

less back pressure in the exhaust housing would allow the turbine to come onto boost earlier than normal inturn producing more mid range torque, plus the fact that it doesn't have to spin up a massive comp wheel at the front.

no love for the RB20 here (sorry again Roy).

Blitz front mount

A'PEXi pod

3" turbo back w/ hi flow cat

upgraded fuel pump

running 12psi got me a massive 138rwkw....RB25 here we come :)

arent R32 GTST and GTS4 meant to be 165 kw stock ? how can ur power be so low ?

arent R32 GTST and GTS4 meant to be 165 kw stock ? how can ur power be so low ?

165 at the flywheel, about 110-120 at the wheels so hes doing better then stock. The old redtops rated at 140 only made 95-100atw in stock form, slower then a rb30e.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
    • In my head it does make sense to be a fuel problem since that is what I touched when cleaning the system. When I was testing with the fuel pressure gauge, the pressure was constantly 2.5 bar with the FPR vacuum removed. When stalling, the pressure was going up to 3.0 bar (which is how it should be on ignition).
    • ECUtalk pages don't mention they support the ABS computer (consult port has more than one CAN), so you might just need a different scan tool. But, I would expect ABS is a different light to the brake warning/handbrake light, do you see an ABS light come on for a few seconds when you turn the key from ACC to IGN? But since you said: I'd have a look at the ABS sensors in the rear hubs to make sure they are not damaged, disconnected etc.
×
×
  • Create New...