Jump to content
SAU Community

Top RB20 Club... do you have over 260rwkw?

RBsileighty

By RBsileighty,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 1.8k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

hellaflush7
hellaflush7

Stock unopened RB20DET out of an R32. Kando TD06-20G 8CM NZ Performance Himount manifold Turbosmart 45mm Gate Bosch ID1000 inj United 107 Raceblend Profec B Spec II 302kw @ 25PSI Could have ke

mokompri
mokompri

haha i knew those plates were familiar... Nismo_Boy, sounds like an animal, could you scan article and post up

random1jzmx83
random1jzmx83

Not quite 260rwkw but close enough. Rb20det Fmic Hks pod filter Hks 25/30 turbo Turbosmart boost t 3" exhaust Bosch 1000's E85 Made 257rwkw at 19psi

Posted Images

Roy Grand Master

Roy

Posted
Posted

LOL...a few ppl were looking very hard at my engine on the weekend as a few of the guys know the gear i have laying around and the car had been at the mechanics for a few weeks. So there was some suspicion that it was still my RB20. I think the fact that i left the bonnet restraint on and i didnt lift the bonnet all day also had a few ppl curious.

Roy Grand Master

Roy

Posted
Posted

Why would you spend all that money putting in an RB25 to make 200rwkws max. When for less money you can bolt on a nice turbo and keep the big brother honest :)

gallery_462_50_59282.jpg

And it has been reliable. I would like to see how a full 2835 setup would go an RB20. GT30R seem to work well as well, but you are perhaps throwing away a bit too much 3,500-4,500 power to make the big top end. Still those that have done it are still quicker then me over the qtr so...GT30R obviously works as well :)

Roy Grand Master

Roy

Posted
Posted

Yeh...just a few more hours to get the most out of it. Worth every cent.

Witness...RB20GOODNESS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Clicky_Right Save As . approx 40meg of RB20 running around Phillip Island

So if mine can hang together after plenty of track work...the average street driven RB20 will be quite at home punching out good numbers

Roy Grand Master

Roy

Posted
Posted

If i go out on the track with less then a qtr of a tank it gets fuel surge. As long as its above its ok. Couldnt be stuffed with a surge tank. its just more lines in the boot that can be knocked/damaged by stuff thrown back there.

The car is still my daily driver so dont want to lose the practicality of the boost. Some of the jap GTR pumps have a in tank baffle that i may look into if i ever need more flow then the 040 can provide (Highly doubt i will need bigger, i think it flows something like 235L/min?)

Interloper Veteran

Interloper

Posted
Posted
Yeh...just a few more hours to get the most out of it. Worth every cent.

Witness...RB20GOODNESS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Clicky_Right Save As . approx 40meg of RB20 running around Phillip Island

So if mine can hang together after plenty of track work...the average street driven RB20 will be quite at home punching out good numbers

Great vid Troy!

the thing with the average RB20 its that they need a good tune (like yours) there's been plenty fail at only 200rwkw due to crap tune/detonation....

IMO - its all in the tune :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • ToothDR32
      $5 Clock upgrade for R32 GTR

      By ToothDR32 · Posted

      Hello, sorry for being late to join the discussion, but my clock just died on me.   Ive tried to look at Michaels digital clock repair.docx and it doesnt work maybe the file has expired.   Please let me know if you can re upload it or take some youtube videos to show us how to get the clock installed? thanks
    • MissMintyR33
      R33 persistent issues. P/steering and lag/misfire

      By MissMintyR33 · Posted

      I thought that might be the case, thats what I'll start saving for. Thanks for the info 
    • jtha7
      Strange issue RB25DET wont start

      By jtha7 · Posted

      Ps i found the below forum and it seems to be the same scenario Im dealing with. Going to check my ECU coolant temp wire tomorrow    From NICOclub forum: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Thu Apr 11, 2013 7:23 am I am completely lost on this. Car ran perfectly fine when I parked it at the end of the year. I took the engine out and painted the engine bay, and put a fuel cell with an inline walbro 255 instead of the in tank unit I had last year. After reinstalling everything, the engine floods when the fuel pump primes. if i pull the fuel pump fuse it'll start, and as soon as I put the fuse back in it starts running ridiculously rich. I checked the tps voltage, and its fine. Cleaned the maf as it had some dust from sitting on a shelf all winter, fuel pressure is correct while running, but wont fire until there is less than 5psi in the lines. The fuel lines are run correctly. I have found a few threads with the same problem but no actual explanation of what fixed it, the threads just ended. Any help would be appreciated. Rb25det s1 walbro255 fuel pump nismo fpr holset hx35 turbo fmic 3" exhaust freddy intake manifold q45tb q45 maf   Re: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Fri Apr 12, 2013 5:07 am No, I didn't. I found the problem though. There was a break in one of the ecu coolant temp sensor wires. Once it was repaired it fired right up with no problems. I would have never thought a non working coolant temp sensor would have caused such an issue.
    • jtha7
      Strange issue RB25DET wont start

      By jtha7 · Posted

      Hi sorry late reply I didnt get a chance to take any pics (my mechanics on the other side of the city) but the plugs were fouled from being too rich. I noticed the MAF wasn't genuine, so I replaced it with a genuine green label unit. I also swapped in a different ignitor, but the issue remains. I've narrowed it down a bit now: - If I unplug and reconnect the fuel lines and install fresh spark plugs, the car starts right up and runs perfectly. Took it around the block with no issues - As soon as I shut it off and try to restart, it won't start again - Fuel pressure while cranking is steady around 40 psi, injectors have good spray, return line is clear, and the FPR vacuum is working. It just seems like it's getting flooded after the first start I unplugged coolant sensors to see if its related to ECU flooding but that didnt make a difference. Im thinking its related to this because this issue only started happening after fixing coolant leaks and replacing the bottom part of the stock manifolds coolant pipe. My mechanic took off the inlet to get to get to do these repairs. My mechanics actually just an old mate who's retired now so ill be taking it to a different mechanic who i know has exp with RBs to see if they find anything. If you have any ideas please send em lll give it a try. Ive tried other things like swapping the injectors, fuel rail, different fuel pressure regs, different ignitor, spark plugs, comp test and MAF but the same issue persists.
    • GTSBoy
      Freddy Plenum vs Genuine options RB25

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      My return flow is custom and puts the return behind the reo, instead of at the bottom. All my core is in the air flow, rather than losing some of it up behind the reo. I realise that the core really acts more as a spiky heatsink than as a constant rate heat exchanger, and that therefore size is important.... but mine fits everything I needed and wanted without having to cut anything, and that's worth something too. And there won't be a hot patch of core up behind the reo after every hit, releasing heat back into the intake air.
×
×
  • Create New...