Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Get a small T from Supercheap, and T it just before the MAP sensor, as for tubing just get something similar to the existing stuff going in to the MAP sensor.

If you're not sure what the MAP sensor is, it's a little black box on teh firewall on the drivers side under the hood.

All mine is held on with cable ties with no worries, get hose clamps though if you're worried.

Hey Ash,

thanks for that man. i got new tubing and T peice from bunnings ware house and fitted the boost gauge into the r32, works sweet! Running 10 psi and spikes to 11 some times.

Didnt know it was that simple.

All up costed me $4 to fit instead of $80 which i was quoted...

fun it off a vacum pipe from the intake plenum to see how much boost reaches the engine.

ps. skylines don't have map sensors they are air flow meters.

That's exactly where the "MAP sensor" is hooked up to, now call it what you want but that black box on the firewall reads engine pressure/vacuum, so my guess is both the ECU and std gauge read from it.

MAP & MAF tuning are not mutually exclusive, you can run a car with both, and my understanding is that's exactly what a RB20DET does. But, i am by no means an expert, and happy to stand corrected if presented with an authorative source.

Edit: btw HCR32, you're very welcome, happy to help.

i thought that the idea of a map sensor was to eliminate the restrictive AFM so more boost could be run and could be tuned better. ie. car with AFM doesn't have/need MAP/MAF sensor and a car with a MAP/MAF doesn't have a AFM. i'm not being a dick i'm just trying to understand the difference between the two and what cars have them or don't.

MAF-less tunes end up higher power when you've been maxing the AFM out, so you ignore it and tune soley on MAP, but as a general rule it ends up in being a worse "tune" as you have less resolution.

Now i stress the word "general", some are fine, with all these things it comes down to the quality of the tuner. As a side note, some of the 300 odd KW HSVs use a MAF-less tune whereas the regular GENIII variants use MAF (and possibly MAP).

I just installed a Boost gauge in my 32, added a T-Piece just off the original Boost/Vaccuum gauge. Unfortunatley there is always a slight delay on the reading.

I'm guessing the only way to reduce this time delay is to drill a new hole through the firewall and make the hose length as short as possible. Seems like too much mucking around with too many possible negative side effects. I should probably keep my eyes on the road more anyway....

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • When you crank your car, and hit it with a timing light, can you see a steady crank timing?
    • Oh, forgot to add, A few months ago I was getting mixture codes and the car was using crap loads of fuel. You could smell the unburned fuel in the exhaust, it was crazy strong. Economy was over 17.5 l/100 and usually around 19. I smoked the engine and found a leaky CCV hose which I replaced and then I replaced my two pre cat O2 sensors, I also replaced the MAF. This fixed my mixture codes and improved my exonomy but I'm still 14 - 15 l/100 when pottering about town so something is still amiss. Throttle response is much better and it has more pep but I'd like to know why it's still so thirsty (and I'm hoping that whatever it is gives me a bit more poke).    
    • Car is on factory injectors/z32 maf/ q45 throttle body/ z32 ecu with nistune 
    • Hello all, currently finishing up a rb25 swap into my s14. Having issues with starting, car has spark (confirmed by pulling a plug and watching it spark), has fuel(confirmed by checking pulse/voltage at injectors all spark plugs are soaked in fuel). Car cranks over and pops into the exhaust with a heavy fuel smell but no attempt to start or run, I have torn the timing cover off and triple confirmed timing, turned the CAS in multiple spots both directions, attempted to start with coolant temp and maf unplugged, checked my fuel lines and made sure they weren’t backwards, checked voltage at cas/injectors/coilpacks, made sure all the grounds in the harness are connected and added a few grounding straps (1 from chassis to block, 1 from chassis to head, and 1 from chassis to igniter chip) I am getting stumped here. As a last ditch effort I made a full grounding harness tonight that’s going to run from the battery and add an extra ground from the battery onto the coil pack harness/igniter chip/ intake manifold/ Wiring specialties harness ground/ and alternator. I’m hoping maybe the grounding harness will fix it here but posting here to see if anyone has any other ideas on what else I can check. My fuel pressure is unknown right gauge will be here tomorrow.  IMG_3206.mov
    • yeah I was shocked when I checked my spare OEM on and as below that's how they come from Nissan. (side interesting note new NEO gearbox and replacement park lack the brass bush on the tips and its just all alloy) unsure about damage to the box currently back at 1110 to be pulled down/inspected and selector fork replaced as he built it previously and given the never before seen failure on his billet forks he is replacing it under warranty. He said he has used always OEM the keyway tab without issue for years so it could be an unlucky coincidence. I did talk to him about the sharp corners and stress concentration too. Re: hard shifts i got 7+ years out of the OEM one and the fork itself failed not the keyway. so could be bad luck as I said or an age thing + heat cycles in box and during fabrication of billet?
×
×
  • Create New...