Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Well I just installed a Boost gauge and a 2-Stage Turbo Smart controller.

Stock boost was running 5psi and spiking to 6psi between 6000-7500 rpm's.

Now running 10psi low boost, 12psi hi boost with no spike.

The boost seems to come on lower down in the rpm.

I think I have just become a boost freak........what a rush.

BTW a big thanks to 51Jay and Co. for helping me put it in.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/5832-oh-the-joy/
Share on other sites

So guys, running stock intercooler on the car? Are you getting the big slump in boost around 4-5000RPM like I hear the R33 will do if theres no aftermarket ECU? Or is that only when going over 12PSI?

Hmm... I might go for a quick cheapo boost upgrade while I save up for my FMIC, PFC and AVC-R if the drivability is still good.

Need to get my HiTech exhaust ordered and on there.. stock system is strangling the engine I am sure :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/5832-oh-the-joy/#findComment-88419
Share on other sites

I've got a blitz dual sbc type s. It electronically controls the level of boost, I've got 2 settings; 0.6 bar and 0.8 bar. I use 0.6 bar for most of my daily driving and especially in the warmer weather as I'm still running the stock cooler (I've got a Trust front mount on its way). I only run 0.8bar mainly at night when its much colder. I cant stress how important it is to back off the engine if you've got it on a high boost setting and you hear detonation (it sounds like something rattling in the engine, like marbles) cos if you keep your foot buried you'll be rebuilding that engine :)

Rob

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/5832-oh-the-joy/#findComment-88615
Share on other sites

thats what im affraid of and whats keeping me from running more boost on mine as i cant really afford to be rebuilding the engine.

I get my boost guage this week and will also get a bleed valve... i want to run about 9 - 11psi until my GTR FMIC gets here from Japan.

At present the only mods i have are a POD Filter, CAT Back and Re-mapped ECU.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/5832-oh-the-joy/#findComment-88619
Share on other sites

definately take it easy on a hot day... alternatively you can do other things to reduce intake temps (the main thing causing detonation on your setup) by installing a cold air partition for the pod filter

i cant see how anyone would really want to thrash it on a 30degree day, so nice for cruising!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/5832-oh-the-joy/#findComment-88692
Share on other sites

Intake air temp on a hot day on the move is usually around 40-43degrees. Sitting in the staging lanes on Wed night it was running 55-63degrees at the end of the 1/4 mile it was back down to 42 degrees. A bit of a burn out brings it down from around 50-55 to 45

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/5832-oh-the-joy/#findComment-88728
Share on other sites

slayer, over 12psi on the stock cooler is bad news. I used to drive around with 10psi without a s-afc, and there was no getting past the slump in power (not boost) at 5000rpm. Some ppl don't have the same problem, though. Seems every R33 ecu reacts differently.

Originally posted by rob77

(I've got a Trust front mount on its way)

rob77, whats the trust fmic gonna set you back, including fitting and piping?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/5832-oh-the-joy/#findComment-88779
Share on other sites

Unsure yet cos it hasnt landed and the workshop is unsure what price they paid for it. When I ordered it the exchange rate was 1aud to 64yen, when it shipped (about 1.5-2 months later) it was 1aud to 68-69yen. Plus you got GST and import duty. Plus it was there 2nd dearest kit for a R33 gts25t, the dearest one includes a intake plenum so that the return pipes can come up the right hand side of the engine. Just the intake plenum is about $1500.

Rob

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/5832-oh-the-joy/#findComment-88834
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • Depending on how long the car sat it is very possible for injectors to be stuck open or closed, I'd get them cleaned and flow tested. Other than that, obviously when the loom changes and the car doesn't start any more....the loom is suspect so some tracing / comparing may be required
    • Harness is for a s1 Rb25det, and it is engine and lower harness.  the old harness had broken off plugs and was in very rough condition/exposed wires and splices etc. it is not able to be put back on the car, I could visually inspect to see if they had rewired any pins on the ecu plug. The fuel pump definitly isn’t turning off it’s an external pump and very loud you can hear it. Will look at the other harness tonight, am also going to pull the fuel rail and watch the injectors spray, will update here with what I find. Pretty sure at this point it has to be something to do with injectors because car will fire up on starting fluid and cas is clicking the Injectors. Fuel pressure is steady 43psi 
    • Check the injectors flow evenly, and are actually flowing what you and the ECU think they should be flowing. If it's starting up on starter fluid, you have a fuel issue. Is it possible under cranking your fuel pump is turning off?   The harness you replaced, is that the whole engine harness? Do yourself a test, and drop the old harness on and plug it into the Z32 ECU. It's possible they've wired things different. From memory S1 to S2 is different in RB25 and you may have a wrong loom
    • I haven’t pulled the injectors to watch them spray yet but they are clicking from the cas and all of the spark plugs are wet with fuel. I’ve thought the cylinders were being flooded from the beginning and was hoping fuel pressure would fix it. Tonight I am going to pull the rail and watch the injectors spray. Don’t know how to test/diagnose if the plugs are firing in correct sequence but that should be a timing thing and as far as timing goes my car still has the half moon for the cas can only install it 1 way. And my mechanical timing is 100% correct I posted photos above. Confirmed with the balancer on and off. 
×
×
  • Create New...