Jump to content
SAU Community

Cefiro: Fitting Jay's Boots


someonestolecc
 Share

Recommended Posts

Hello,

I'm going to refer particularly to Jay's gearstick and handbrake boots for installation as they are the ones I have bought. These are direct replacement for r32 so it may be possible, in some ways, to follow these instructions for using r32 boots in a cefiro.

If you don't know which boots I'm talkinga bout see here .

First any foremost these are excellent quality and it shows that Jay actually cares when he puts them together so while I don't know him I highly recommend them.

Tools you will need-

Flathead screwdriver

Phillipshead screwdriver

A skilled leather person (those shops you get keys and shoes cut/fixed at) or if you're skilled and have leather tools you can do this yourself.

Possibility some food (it can't hurt)

1. Take out all your old stuff.

I haven't taken a picture because mine was out already and I forgot but you will need to take out your cover that is in front of your stereo. This is easy there are screws on either side and it should just come right off.

Next is the gear stick holder-er thing, these clip in on the side closer to the rear of the car and require you to pull up on the rear half. The front locks in but doesn't click in so once the rear is up it will come out.

boots_01.jpg

Turn it around and you will notice the leather/plastic is sewn into a metal frame that pops into the plastic cover.

boots_12.jpg

Pop it out.

boots_13.jpg

Hold onto it and start on the console.

Take out all your money etc and start unscrewing the 3 screws inside the console "hidey hole".

boots_15.jpg

This should come out at the angle shown, it helps to have your gear in 1st and gearstick half to full up.

boots_16.jpg

Underneath this you will find a metal plate with 2 screws. Remove this plate it holds onto it evil spirits.

boots_17.jpg

boots_18.jpg

Triumph!

boots_19.jpg

You can now go back inside the house and eat aforementioned food - be sure to wash your hands before handling Jay's brilliant boots however.

With the gearstick boot - with some scissors or those little sewing tools that cut thread *take breath* cut the thread and take it off, try not to break or bend the metal framing - you will be using this again.

boots_04.jpg

With the handbrake boot basically just rip the boot from the metal frame.

boots_02.jpg

Now that you have removed your old stuff tap your head 3 times - feels good don't it?

To get the handbrake boot on I simply used a silicone sealer - leather glue would probably be the best but the stuff I used seemed to do the job nicely!

A word of advice - you will want to line it up first and then use the glue. I did one side at a time (took a long time). Also with the cefiro the dimensions are tight - you'll need to make sure before you glue that it fits nicely (which it can). One side already was sticky so I used that to line it up and hold it on - you should have some glue left over in it also.

boots_03.jpg

boots_04.jpg

boots_05.jpg

As for the gearstick boot, I couldn't actually pierce the leather with a normal needle so what I did was take it down to one of those places that do keys and shoes. They glued and sewed it up for me all professional like for $20.*

boots_06.jpg

Very nice.

boots_07.jpg

Stick it back in (is that what she said?!) after it's all glued up and nice.

boots_08.jpg

You're ready to start to put stuff back in the car.

The handbrake bracket should fit in perfect but be a little tight as the leather Jay has provided is (imo) a better quality and thicker than the original. It's easier to fit over the handbrake lever with the buttons undone.

boots_9.jpg

Just follow the steps up top in reverse to put everything back together.

The result -

boots_10.jpg

boots_11.jpg

Very very nice.

(*) - I didn't use the little ring that you're meant to sow in the top of the gearstick boot. I prefer it this way, because the leather can be shaped to sit nicely and loosely around the shifter (i also have a short shift so its nice this way). If you wanted to use it you would ask them to put this in also.

Thanks Jay! Great work.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Sure, but you could just pull enough timing out of the map to make it idle at whatever RPM you want. Or close the throttle until it's about to bind to compensate for vacuum leaks.That's kind of why I'm not a fan of this approach, especially if OP isn't experienced at tuning these things.
    • Once you go non OEM DBW e-throttle, you'll never go back to a cable throttle. Just so good in every single way.
    • Feels like most tend to keep it under 8000rpm for hydraulic lifters. Quick search on the net and those on Rennlist like to keep theirs under 7500rpm, Speed Talk under 8000rpm. Perhaps start to take timing out for 7250rpm and soft cut it by 8000rpm.
    • Ok, so I just had a chat with my mechanic. He said there is no real source of lead in the engine, the bearings and pistons are aluminium and the rings I think he said are steel. He doesn't recall what additive he used but that along with the thicker 20w50 he used could be a source of lead. It's put me at ease a little bit and I guess I'll just have to wait 5000 k's to do another change and see if anything is different.  I appreciate you guys chiming in. I have a habit of immediately thinking worst case with things like this.
    • Finished street tuning it to 20psi with WMI. Haltech really makes it easy for you with those 4D maps. I have 17psi springs in my gates but they seem to only start cracking around 17 and taper off around 19/20psi. I was originally on 14psi springs but I'm expecting to need ~35-38psi to hit my goal and I was worried It wouldn't make it. Dyno's booked for next Friday. All I have left is to replace my el cheapo amazon special type k connectors on my EGT's. They have no strain relief and well are just all around cheap compared to what I use at work. I had the wires in one get lose and I don't want a repeat of that on the Dyno. I also want to figure out why I have 4 cylinders that are perfectly identical, one that's 30C over and another that's 30C under. I'm chocking this up to EGT position in the runners not being identical and will verify that as well. Wish me luck! Hopefully I make all the power with no bang. Question for the group, I have my rev limiter set to 8000rpm. I have a fully built head and new lifters but I stuck with hydro's. Is 8000 fair or am I being to cautious? 
×
×
  • Create New...