Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

My R32 appears to have an oil leak down near the bellhousing...

This is where it appears to be dripping from, but haven't had much of a chance to see whether there is any other source..

why?

Stuffed crank seal? causing oil to blow out of the back of the crank and to collect in the bellhousing? Is there a gasket between the block and the bellhousing usually?

Its an auto.. but appears to be engine oil..

Any advice thanks..

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/58907-oil-leak-bellhousing/
Share on other sites

Yeah.. pretty much what I suspected.. thanks

Luckily I have to rip the gearbox out anyhow in a couple of months when I convert it to manual, so can probably fix it then.

Will give it a degrease and proper check though beforehand though, just to see if its anything else.

So its just where this blue gasket gunk is in this photo? this is off my rb25 sitting there, but should be same right? Just have to unbolt that and install new gasket there?

They dont leak from the gasket usualy , its the round seal you can see in the pic , the crank spins on it and sooner or later it will wear out and let oil pass .

When you have the box out pull the seal out and carefuly install the new one in , just tap it in using the old seal and a hammer .

when you remove the seal housing you will notice that it has made a groove in the crank.

you dont want the new seal to ride in the groove.so when you install the new seal hit it in but not all the way,this will make the lip of the seal sit just behind the groove and it will last 10 times longer.

also rub a small amount of grease on the lip of the seal to stop it burning when you start the engine

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The final part arrived today to un-clampify and simplify the intake Who would have though a 1/2" hose stainless bulkhead fitting designed for below waterline bilge pumps would be what I needed Test fit on a 3" offcut I had laying around to see if it would work, and it worked a treat All going well the intake will be on its "final version" tomorrow 
    • Good luck on the weekend mate
    • Must have been an absolute nightmare to drive when the power steer was out, the rack ratio/wheel size/caster is all set up for power assistance
    • Welcome to SAU, what are you looking at buying?
    • I checked the injectors again (1 and 2, since they’re easiest to access) to make sure they weren’t clogged. Even though the entire fuel system had been cleaned, I wanted to be certain. Everything looked clean, so I reinstalled and connected everything. When I started the car to confirm everything was okay, it immediately revved up high, so I shut it off straight away. I checked to see if I’d missed a vacuum hose or something, but everything was connected. On the second attempt, the car ran without the high idle, but I noticed a distinct “compressed air” sound coming from the engine bay. Tracing the sound, I pushed injector #6 forward slightly and the noise stopped — it turned out it wasn’t seated properly, despite the fuel rail being bolted down. While holding it in place, the car idled steadily without stalling and ran for over 5 minutes. At this point, I pulled all six injectors out just in case I hadn’t seated them correctly or dirt had gotten onto the O-rings. Unfortunately, I discovered that I had damaged 3 out of 6 injectors (the OEM 270cc ones) during installation. So yes, this was my fault. Since only the pintle caps were damaged, I’ve ordered a Fuel Injector Service Kit from NZEFI to refurbish them. In the meantime, I reinstalled my new injectors – the car now idles fine for over 15 minutes without stalling. I have not attempted to drive it so far. It’s not perfect yet, as it hesitates when the throttle is pressed, but it’s a big improvement. Unplugging the IACV with the new injectors idles at around 800rpm, even with the IACV screw tightened fully. But this is probably due to tune.
×
×
  • Create New...