Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I thought I'd share a recent experience with my fellow auto enthusiasts and hopefully spare someone else a few headaches.

I'm about to begin legal proceedings with MULLINS WHEELS of Australia, manufacturers of CSA wheels. Long story short, I ordered a replacement wheel from these folks for my car and they sent me the right wheel, wrong colour. They've refused to fix the problem after months of correspondence and several requests from the Office of Consumer and Business Affairs for South Australia. I suggest if you're thinking of making a purchase of one of their products, that you think twice about their lack of focus on consumer relations and professional conduct.

Cheers.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/58944-csa-mullins-wheels-bad-bu/
Share on other sites

to_sc300 you're in Toronto? I had no idea CSA wheels went to Canada... did MULLins send the wheel to you directly or through a distributer?

There's a Toronto near Newcastle.

I personally wouldn't buy any wheel made by CSA or Simmons or Speedy or... you get my drift?

T.

Yeah, I'm on the other side of the ball in Canada. I ordered from them direct for a replacement wheel. My original set were bought here from a retailer, there is some sort of distributor up here but I think they've now stopped carring Mullins... I'm pretty sure I know why (now). Not only did they send me the wrong wheel, it's a wheel that was never imported into Canada. They may be "a few sandwiches short of a picnic" at Mullins.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
    • You just need a wheel alignment after, so just set them to the same as current and drive to the shop. As there are 2 upper links it may also be worth adding adjustable upper front links at the same time; these reduce bump steer when you move the camber (note that setting those correctly takes a lot longer as you have to recheck the camber at each length of the toe arm, through a range of movement, so you could just ignore that unless the handling becomes unpredictable)
    • I got adjustable after market rear camber arm to replace the stock one's because got sick of having to buy new rear tyres every few months. Can anyone please let me know what the best adjustment length would be. I don't have the old ones anymore to get measurements. I'm guessing the stock measurement minus a few mm would do it. Please any help on replacing them would be fantastic I've watched the YouTube clips but no-one talks about how long to set the camber arm to.
    • Heh. I copied the link to the video direct, instead of the thread I mentioned. But the video is the main value content anyway. Otherwise, yes, in Europe, surely you'd be expected to buy local. Being whichever flavour of Michelin, Continental or Pirelli suits your usage model.
    • Continental have consistently beaten the absolute shit out of every other performance tyre in Wet/Damp/Cold conditions and give up a little bit of time (half a second at most) in the dry. Almost like it's engineered for German conditions or something. I'd def give those a try.
×
×
  • Create New...